Electrical simpleton needs help

[baben 11,782]

Hi Chaps

I want to wire an inforad gps thingie into my bike. I believe there is a way of doing it that will not involve just using the two battery terminals, so it will turn off with the ignition. I have NO IDEA how to do this. My electrical knowledge and skills are minimal (non existent) and I am terrified of screwing the whole electrical system up. I downloaded the colour pdf of the wiring system and was reduced to a mewling, puking wreck in seconds.  None of the abbreviations meant a thing. The owners handbook is completely useless apart from telling me not to install anything that has not been made by Honda (Givi must love that). I think it must be possible to wire it into the fuse bank but gawd knows where and how.  HELP.

[Guest bonekicker]

A genius at first thought --what is he on about??-- then realized you want to do something a little different?? but on looking into the pro's and con's you really have not a clue what you are doing-- well we don't either!!!     

 

Sorry just fooling around --testing you -- to see if you have any patience and resolve-- Sorry I can't help at all I have none of these qualities.

 

But I am sure some proper genius will come and sort it for you   

[deecat 318]

The easiest way is to fit the Honda sub harness and relay kit,this gives you plug in connections that turn off with the ignition.

 

On my bike I have the sat nav, heated grips, intercom, 12v charger and chain oiler plugged into it.

[pointer2null 106]

I can't help with the specifics (cut the blue wire and not the green etc) as I've not got a schematic of the NC nor poked about in it's innards yet but what you want to do is...

 

Power the heated grips from the battery via a relay and fuse. The relay will control the current from the battery and switch it off when the ignition is switched off. The relay itself will be switched on by tapping into a circuit that comes on with the ignition - normally something like the tail light.

 

The sub-harness mentioned above is the official Honda way of doing this - it will have all the connections readily avilable so you won't need to cut wires etc. However, it probably won't be the simplest thing to fit. Honda quotes 2 hours+ for a professional mechanic to fit the grips.

 

If you're not confident and competent with electrical stuff you'd better take it to a garage to get it fitted. The last thing you want is a short circuit setting fire to the bike or a botched tap connection coming apart and blowing fuses while your riding at 90 70 along the motorway.

[ncmf 87]

I have had some luck with taking a connection from the wire to the rear light.  I used a posi connector so its not intrusive, and its easy from there to route the wire back to the trunk via the door to the battery.

 

Its easy to do, but Im sure the wiring harness is more ideal for a number of reasons.

 

Please let us know how you get on with the inforad, I am considering one.

[pointer2null 106]

Didn't think to say last night - but I've got a set of Oxfords fitted (done by the stealer as part of the deal) and they are on a permenent live connection (fused). The controller itself decides when to power off the grips. So, depending on the make you may be able to do that.

[Guest EasyTiger]

If for some reason you decide not to use a Honda harness, an alternative is to have a Fuzeblock fitted.

This makes connection of up to 6 accessories simple.

Each can be made 'always on' or switched with the ignition simply by shifting their fuse.

 

Electrical geniuses can make their own quite cheaply.

http://www.fuzeblocks.com/

http://www.nippynormans.com/products/f650stf650csf650gsf650-dakar/item/fuzeblock-switchable-fuse-panel-fuz-fz1

[Guest robin]

You need to find a ignition live wire. Preferably from the side lights.  Follow the wires going to the side light ,front or back until you find some room to work on them.

You'll need a bulb with the wires attached or an electricians screw driver ( it has a bulb in it and a wire leading out the top.) or a multimeter.  I use the screw driver.

Instead of stripping wires and taping them up again just push a pin into the wires one at once. Test each wire by touching the Screw driver to the pin with the other end attached to an earth point. Now you need to switch the ignition key on,  If the screw driver bulb lights up when the ignition is on but not when ignition is off, then you have an ignition live.  If the bulb doesn't light up at all the go to next wire.

 

Connect to ignition live and don't forget a fuse>>><<<

 

 

[baben 11,782]

I have had some luck with taking a connection from the wire to the rear light.  I used a posi connector so its not intrusive, and its easy from there to route the wire back to the trunk via the door to the battery.

 

Its easy to do, but Im sure the wiring harness is more ideal for a number of reasons.

 

Please let us know how you get on with the inforad, I am considering one.

Urgh. Rear light wire? What does that look like?  And what is a posi connector?  Yes, I really am that dense.

And where would the earth wire go? (I know that is the black one!)

[baben 11,782]

You need to find a ignition live wire. Preferably from the side lights.  Follow the wires going to the side light ,front or back until you find some room to work on them.

You'll need a bulb with the wires attached or an electricians screw driver ( it has a bulb in it and a wire leading out the top.) or a multimeter.  I use the screw driver.

Instead of stripping wires and taping them up again just push a pin into the wires one at once. Test each wire by touching the Screw driver to the pin with the other end attached to an earth point. Now you need to switch the ignition key on,  If the screw driver bulb lights up when the ignition is on but not when ignition is off, then you have an ignition live.  If the bulb doesn't light up at all the go to next wire.

 

Connect to ignition live and don't forget a fuse>>><<<

Isn't sticking a pin in rather dangerous? Won't it break the electric circuit? God, I am thick!! But I really don't know!

[pointer2null 106]

The idea with using a pin is you can push it through the outer insulation and connect to the copper core. Unless the wire is really thin (think ear phone thickness) then it won't break the cable.

 

Best way to find the wire from the rear break light is to see which one is actually coming out of it!

 

I found a schematic on here last night for the NC750 and according to that it should be pink and blue (blue with pink bits or maybe pink with blue bits).

 

Try and find that first and check and see if it goes live when you switch on the ignition. If it does you've found the first connection.

 

(In fact looking at the schematic it seems that pink/blue is the colour used on several cirtuit for the switched live wire so you may find any pink/blue wire will work.

 

 

p.s. you're not thick just because you're no good at electrical - i know quite a few smart people who can't even wire a plug!

[Guest Hati]

Glendon: if you are that lost with electrical stuff, it's probably best to take it to a shop to be connected, or get someone else to do it for you. It is too hard to safely "talk you through" without the chance to damage or blow something up.

 

On a side note, why don't you plug in to the power socket in the not the tank? I believe there is a cigarette lighter socket there. You could just get a plug to wire to the end of your GPS lead. Much simpler than trying to get you to find specific wiring on the bike, test, connect and test again.

 

Take a pic of the harness of the GPS first and post it here.

[pointer2null 106]

GPS? Should have read the original post better.... sure you had some heated grips....

 

Oh well, principle is the same. If you were near Brizzol I'd give you a hand.

 

For a GPS - something that consumes naff all power - run direct from battery via a 1amp fuse. Just remove when you're done - mind you, anyone who leaves a GPS on a bike unattended won't have a GPS for long unless the araldite they <censored word> thing on.

Edited February 6, 2015 by pointer2null

[TheEnglishman 401]

Here's a series on youtube going through most of what you need to do.  

 

Have a watch and see if you're tempted to put the subharness in yourself.  If not get a dealer/qualified person to do it.

 

I'd offer to help (stand over your shoulder with a fire extinguisher) but I don't have any spare time until April time.

 

[baben 11,782]

The thingie I am installing is an inforad speed camera alert. It sits under the seat (or in the frunk) and just lights an LED if you are near a camera site - flashes orange then red as you approach. I think that is a sensible reminder in case I am enjoying my ride too much.  I have realised that my dealer installed heated grips (Oxford) which must be wired through the ignition as they turn off as soon as you turn off the ignition so I am going to be brave and see if I can trace that wiring back to somewhere where I can connect my device.  Wish me luck! - And thanks for all the helpful advice - I may yet stick a pin in a wire!  - 

Oh. Just thought - where do you put the earth wire?

[pointer2null 106]

The bike chassis is the earth (or negative connection).

 

If you're not sure, try taking a photo of the connections etc and we can see if there is enough to help.

[baben 11,782]

The bike chassis is the earth (or negative connection).

 

If you're not sure, try taking a photo of the connections etc and we can see if there is enough to help.

Aha! Presumably to a piece of bare metal rather than onto paint?

[baben 11,782]

Ye Gods!  Just opened the battery box for the first time. There seem to be rather more wires that I would have expected, attached to the battery.  The bike has Oxford heated grips, an Oxford 12v socket (on the bars) and a PD oiler.  The socket is always live but the other two turn off with the ignition - I have no idea how it is all put together so I am going to pretend i never bought the gps thingie and ride very carefully until the annual service (May) when I will casually ask the dealer to add it to the spaghetti.

[pointer2null 106]

Yes - clean metal - usually you'd find a screw or bolt and put the wire under that as the thread tends not to be pained or coated and can make a good connection.

[nelmo 563]

Ye Gods!  Just opened the battery box for the first time. There seem to be rather more wires that I would have expected, attached to the battery.  The bike has Oxford heated grips, an Oxford 12v socket (on the bars) and a PD oiler.  The socket is always live but the other two turn off with the ignition - I have no idea how it is all put together so I am going to pretend i never bought the gps thingie and ride very carefully until the annual service (May) when I will casually ask the dealer to add it to the spaghetti.

Good decision - you don't want to learn about electrics using your pride and joy as practice - could end up being very expensive.

[Scootabout 2,267]

Not sure if this is relevant to your case, but: I wired in a GPS, including a Heath Robinson 'switch', by connecting a cigar lighter socket to the battery, and a cigar lighter male plug to the GPS via a USB connector. There is a 1A fuse in the lead to the GPS. The socket stays connected to the battery but is unplugged unless I'm using the GPS. This way I don't risk water-induced short-circuits. The GPS lead runs from the battery forwards and then up to the handlebars. It's worked OK for about a year. The main issue is the need to open the battery cover to disconnect the socket, but if you leave just one screw in it's quite quick and you needn't necessarily do it every day.

[Hamish 334]

Sheeesh, just started watching those videos further up by the guy fittng the Honda sub-harness. I lost the will to live after the 2nd video.  The amount of work involved is unbelievable.

 

What does the sub-harness do for you that you don't get with a normal cigarette lighter socket in the frunk?

[djsb 493]

I'm still trying to decide how I'm going to wire up my GPS etc. I might install a PDM60/Arboreal Neutrino or Fuzeblock just behind the pillion seat. Theres a review somewhere on this forum for the PDM60. Either way I'm going to do a LOT of reading and planning first and wait for the longer days of spring /summer to do the work. I'm an Electronics Tech by trade and even I'm a bit reluctant to delve in to the Ratsnest of wiring.

 

 

 

 

 

PS Problem with the PDM60 is the need to program it with a Laptop plugged into it's USB socket when it's unpowered. The Neutrino can be programmed with an Android phone using bluetooth.

Edited February 15, 2015 by djsb