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ACF-50 spray


Guest matt_bex

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Mike5100

Roddy you do twice as many miles as me but i do ride all through the winter (got heated gear:-)) The allyearbiker guys say the idea that you shouldnt use power washers is mistaken ( not sure if thats why you are just using a hose) And they also say that after having their acf50 treatment you should only ever use the cheapest car shampoo as the sophisticated expensive ones like mucoff and sdoc20 will remove the acf50

Mike

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Hi Matt, as someone who's bike has to stay outside all year round, I also cannot rate this product highly enough. I probably apply it a bit TOO liberally, and yeah, don't get it on your brake pads, cr

poldark

Wait to be corrected by more knowledgeable peeps but I thought the advice about power washers was because of potential damage to bearings and such like, due to over enthusiastic use?

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Mike5100

Yep you are spot on poldark. But using one with common sense is the most efficient way to cmean your bike

Mike

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all me previous bike were diped in ACF50 (two cans a go) twice during winter ... and sod the washing up in cold nights... once the weather dry up a bit used a hose down and a rag to dry up and presto bike look like new . (always have a rag in a zippy bag covered in ACF50 ) used to dry the bike in summer rainy days...

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You are right using muck off etc can wash off the acf50 its a bit a balancing act.

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Guest Silver Hawk

I've used ACF-50 in the past...and I might use it on my NCX but I do wonder whether it is significantly better than good, old Finnigan's Waxoil.

I continue to use Waxoil on the underside of the mudguards on my vintage bikes; I usually apply a heavy coat after they have been restored and painted; one application and they never need another one. And you can thin it with white spirit to whatever consistency (i.e. for spraying) you want...plus is has good creep properties. Oh, and a whole lot cheaper than ACF-50.

Nice on the hands as well...luvvly smell. :yes:

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Guest jorgegofio

cant go wrong with WD-40???

yes you can, very wrong!

what can go wrong with WD40? I live in Madrid, which is very dry. No rain. No snow. No salt. And I will probably not ride when it rains. Bike sleeps in the garage. I was planning to apply some WD40 as a protective measure but only after each wash. And a different product for lubing the chain. Is this ok?
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Guest jorgegofio

cant go wrong with WD-40???

yes you can, very wrong!

what can go wrong with WD40? I live in Madrid, which is very dry. No rain. No snow. No salt. And I will probably not ride when it rains. Bike sleeps in the garage. I was planning to apply some WD40 as a protective measure but only after each wash. And a different product for lubing the chain. Is this ok?

Because I understand WD is also dialectric and also protects the electricals.

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Guest Big Den

I will be jet washing and firing up the compressor and paint gun loaded with ACF50 this weekend to treat two of mine as the bastards with the salt will be along soon to cover the roads in acidic goo bless them.

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Rocker66

I will be jet washing and firing up the compressor and paint gun loaded with ACF50 this weekend to treat two of mine as the bastards with the salt will be along soon to cover the roads in acidic goo bless them.

And if they don't treat the roads and leave them covered in ice people would be complaining about that. Personally I would rather have a salt covered bike than broken bones or worse

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Guest jdearauj

No events or availability in my area(KT4 – South West London) to get it done professionally.

So my plan is to buy a can or two of WD-40 or ACF-50 or Finnigan's Waxoil, then apply it to my X. This will be the first time I’m doing this, so please be gentle and offer me the best advice. I’ll do a Google search to see if I can find more information online. I do not have a compressor and not sure the purchase of a compressor warrants the application of ACF-50 once/twice a year.

Thanks

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Mike5100

Only advice I would give is don't spray it on, instead paint it on or use a rag soaked in the stuff. If you spray it most of it will end up on the floor. It has tremendous creep characteristics and you need only the thinnest coating for it to work.

Using the rag or a radiator brush method, you will use less than half a can to treat all the bits that need treating. These are of course any bare metal like bolt heads and nuts, and any painted metal that you might be suspicious of - for instance frame welds and joins. Things that move like sidestands need doing, and I usually wipe asoaked rag over chrome bits like handlebars. The brake pedla wants doing regularly, but I wouldn't bother with wheel rims or most of the engine because the bits that get hot, burn it off quickly anyway.

Mike

Edited by Mike5100
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Mike5100

One suspicious bit that people have posted up is the bottom fork yoke. I made sure I brushed ACF50 round there and I haven't got any signs of rust yet in 3000 miles - mind you it is only 6 weeks old :D

Mike

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Guest Lockon2

I puchased the 1LTR bottle for £29 delivered and comes with spray pump - I think from using this that it will last 3 to 4 years, I have done the bike top to bottom removing plastics etc and doing the connectors switches etc.

I know that some areas will need doing again in the winter but I should get three years out of it, I did this on a Harley Ultra Glide Classic a couple of years ago and road it throu the winter and it looked like new when I came to give it a good clean. Also I am not one to keep cleaning my bike, just hose it down now and again.

Grant

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Guest Big Den

I will be jet washing and firing up the compressor and paint gun loaded with ACF50 this weekend to treat two of mine as the bastards with the salt will be along soon to cover the roads in acidic goo bless them.

And if they don't treat the roads and leave them covered in ice people would be complaining about that. Personally I would rather have a salt covered bike than broken bones or worse

Been alternatives available for decades without the corrosion properties of salt, also there is some sort of financial/budget malarky with the councils i think as they are out gritting at the first sign of cold weather and in this area they put it down about an inch thick. It was reported last year that it costs £30K every time a council gritter goes out so you would think they would be a bit more economical with it !

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Guest jdearauj

For jdearauj, allyearbiker have a base in Chesham which shouldn't be too far.

Thanks for the information, I did see that base in Chesham and it is roughly 40 miles from me so not that close but not too far. I have e-mailed them and will see what they come back with.

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Rocker66

I will be jet washing and firing up the compressor and paint gun loaded with ACF50 this weekend to treat two of mine as the bastards with the salt will be along soon to cover the roads in acidic goo bless them.

And if they don't treat the roads and leave them covered in ice people would be complaining about that. Personally I would rather have a salt covered bike than broken bones or worse

Been alternatives available for decades without the corrosion properties of salt, also there is some sort of financial/budget malarky with the councils i think as they are out gritting at the first sign of cold weather and in this area they put it down about an inch thick. It was reported last year that it costs £30K every time a council gritter goes out so you would think they would be a bit more economical with it !

As I understand it those alternatives would cost a great deal more. Remember that it's our money that is paying for it

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Mike5100

I heard that the problem is they have to guess how much salt they need, then they have to use it come rain or shine, because it doesn't keep - presumably the hygroscopic properties mean a heap of it it will gradually dissolve away. So come the end of a mild winter they are frantically trying to get rid of it. Doesn't make sense over-using it at the beginning of winter though. For work we bought some of the urea pellets instead of salt. It does have advantages but to me it doesn't seem as good - the pellets just seem to sit there or blow away before they have chance to melt any ice.

Mike

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I follow the teachings of the late Fred Dibnah, anything that moves oil it, anything that shines, clean and oil it. I have a gallon can of Waxoil, (can's going rusty), I dilute that with white spirit and use an old household cleaner spray bottle and coat everything that I think will need it. Also use ACF50

A Triumph owner at the Oakdene Cafe, coats everything at risk in grease, uses the bike everyday during winter, come spring, he takes it apart and cleans it. It looks like new, and I'm sure no one would steal it in the winter, as it looks rotten.

Years ago you would never find a rusty back wheel on a Triumph, they had a self lubricating system of breathers.

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