Rear Light removal problem

[CFB 4,602]

Has anybody else had trouble removing the rear light unit to get to the bulb?

 

It started off OK.

Undo the cover panel screw and drop down,

Undo the 2 bolts up behind the number plate.

Undo the screw holding the front of the light unit in place, not a chance!

Normal screwdriver wouldn't shift it, larger screwdriver still wouldn't!

Same driver with a spanner on it for extra leverage? Nope!

Cordless with a bit of umph? forget it.

As a last resort before drilling the bugger out, a centre punch and hammer were deployed.

CRACK! Hey presto, it finally gives in.

 

They must be employing gorillas on the assembly line as there was no sign of corrosion.

It has now been refitted with a dose of silicone grease as a precaution.

[Guest bonekicker]

 That's it Clive Never Give In or Up    

[kharli 100]

I am having the same problem ,looks like I will have to drill one of the two allen bolts out . Wish it was on my screw grease list three years ago !

[Guest Guri]

Hi,

 

could it be that screws according to JIS are used and the PH screw drivers just dont grip properly?

[CFB 4,602]

Guri, I think they are JIS.

The screwdriver not fitting properly wasn't my issue.

No slipping etc, I just couldn't budge it until extreme measures.

[Guest Carl_L]

It has now been refitted with a dose of silicone grease as a precaution.

I'm sure it'll be fine but noticed the handbook specifies a torque setting for this one screw. I wonder if it's because they've had problems with them vibrating loose or whether it's just to avoid cracking the plastic?

Incidentally, it's problem screws like this that make we want to buy JIS bits so I can use them with a T-bar driver, ratchet handle, or impact driver (probably not suitable on the tail unit!). Can't find the buggers in the UK - please somebody post a heads-up if ever they find any.

I've got a set of JIS drivers from RuggedRoads and they also do 'Impacta' drivers but, at £15 a pop, it's a bloody expensive way of buying impact drivers!

[CFB 4,602]

I seem to remember there is a rubber grommet and collar around the screw.

Anti vibration?

[noj 365]

Mine came out very easy..........the longer the screw driver the better, more tork....

[Tigertail 64]

Guri, I think they are JIS.

The screwdriver not fitting properly wasn't my issue.

No slipping etc, I just couldn't budge it until extreme measures.

Before going to extreme measures I presume that you tried heating the screw head with a heat gun on low setting?  Application of a little heat should always be the first measure before resorting to physical methods which can lead to damage.  Thread locking compound is often applied to prevent screws coming loose under vibration, a little heat and it "melts" allowing it to be unscrewed.

 

Glad you got it sorted in the end.

 

TT

[kharli 100]

^{Mine were allen head screws  ,I should have done the top single one out first as even though I got one of the two out the other didn't budge to the extent I put so much force it twisted the whole light unit and cracked the housing of the single screw.....still ive replaced them with galvanised 10mm bolts/washer for next time and it all looks good now, but what a palava  , To drill out properly without a short drill bit meant taking the rear tyre off  grr grr grrr  . Not sure a heat gun would do much ,theres a lot of plastic there !}

 ^{If you do need a lot of force do not fully remove all the screws until the tight one is released as this it will stop the unit twisting.}

[CFB 4,602]

Before going to extreme measures I presume that you tried heating the screw head with a heat gun on low setting?  Application of a little heat should always be the first measure before resorting to physical methods which can lead to damage.  Thread locking compound is often applied to prevent screws coming loose under vibration, a little heat and it "melts" allowing it to be unscrewed.

 

Glad you got it sorted in the end.

 

TT

I should have thought about that.

Next time... Thanks for the tip TT

[Reckless_Rat 89]

Mine was also an Allen head and it came out fairly straightforwardly (NC700S), Had a bit more trouble with the preceding two (Allen) bolts though and the plastics were beginning to bend. All now well coated with Copper-Slip and replaced. Thanks for the warning though - would rather sort it out now than find it's seized up when I'm stuck out in the wilds somewhere.