Guest Bluepaul Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 Hi, picked up the new to me NC X and loving it. Rear brake seemed very spongy, and on checking the level it was at the minimum. So thought I would replace the fluid and bleed the system. When I removed the bolt holding the fluid tank there was a layer of crud over the cover. I washed/scraped this off to get at the cover screws. Both screws are set solid and won't move. If I force it anymore then I will probably strip the head. Any ideas on how to ease them or failing that where to get a second-hand tank cheap (Honda want £100+ for it !!!) Cheers Paul Link to post
Tigertail 64 Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 Apply some heat to the screw heads with a heat gun on low setting (careful not to melt the plastic) or a hairdryer. When they are hot to touch use the right size JIS screwdriver. The standard Honda toolkit screwdriver should fit if you have no other JIS bits. Good luck! TT Link to post
Guest bonekicker Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 You have always to use the correct sized screwdriver at all time--when there is corrosion you must spend time cleaning and spraying some WD40 or similar on --let it soak for a while--try to tighten first the try to undo --you must push onto screw driver as well as turning--if not it will slip and knacker the screw. Link to post
Trev 18,928 Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 As above on WD40 and/or low heat, you an also try giving the screwdriver a few taps with a light hammer, this often works to 'unstick' the thread but of course always use force appropriate to the size of the screw the delicate brake cylinder. If in doubt as to what is appropriate then don't use this method Link to post
Guest jonty03 Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 Might I suggest you treat yourself to a can of this stuff...works wonders if you leave it overnight.. Link to post
Guest Carl_L Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 I always find brake reservoir screws the worst. Doesn't matter whether the bike was made in Japan, Italy, or anywhere else. They always seem to seize & are always made of cheese (I'm a poet & didn't know it!) If you're really at a dead end & none of the other nuggets of sound advice above don't bring results, it may be worth getting a JIS impact driver. If you've got a day or three to hang on, I'll try my JIS drivers on said screw to determine the correct size (sorry, I'm looking after my Dad at moment & tools & bike live at different places). Then, although pricey, you can pick up a JIS Impacta driver that's sure to do the trick - cheaper than a new reservoir! Here's a link to the #2 size for info: http://ruggedroads.co.uk/epages/00cbb604-5d1c-407e-8207-580e14387ec5.mobile/?ObjectPath=/Shops/00cbb604-5d1c-407e-8207-580e14387ec5/Products/125941&Locale=en_GB Link to post
Rocker66 34,609 Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 Impact driver certainly seems to be the answer if the heat & WD 40 don't work Link to post
Guest Bluepaul Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 Thanks, guys, I'll get the hairdryer and wd40 out tomorrow and hopefully that'll work. Fingers crossed. Cheers Paul Link to post
embee 7,288 Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 I'll vote for Plusgas rather than WD40 too, it is a penetrating fluid not a water dispersant, it's made for the job. As Jonty03 says, apply and leave to soak overnight. The biggest problem with those reservoir screws is that they are so small, any real persuasion will shear them off. Better to take more time and get them out if at all possible. Silicone grease when refitting will usually prevent this issue. If they get any brake fluid on them when someone has refitted them before it will absorb moisture and cause corrosion. Good luck, take your time. Link to post
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