Chain issues.

[Guest Madmax889]

Hi All

Could someone help me regarding my chain? I lubricate it regularly. I also have had it recently adjusted by Honda literally a week ago. I still get the not by gear change (intermittent) even after the chain was adjusted. I put the bike on a paddock stand just to give it a clean but noticed this on the chain.

Not 100% sure if it's supposed to be like this. Especially as I still get a notchy gear change sometimes.

Any suggestions/help would be great. Cheers

[trisaki 2,029]

You have a tight spot on the chain when adjusting the chain always adjust it where the tightest spot is , could degrease it and then work some wd40 type lube in the tight links , it may free up , will certainly make it feel nicer to ride

[prr 153]

Typical uneven chain wear. I had similar issue. When I tried to pull out the chain out of the rear sprocket I got this:

 

 

The chain and the sprockets were changed under warranty at less than 20k kms. I spoke to the dealer's mechanic and he told me that the expected millage from the OEM o-ring chain is about 20k kms. He recommended to have x-ring or better for the next change.

 

PS: Adjust the chain on the tightest point as else you may wear also the bearings.

Edited July 13, 2015 by prr

[embee 7,288]

It's been seriously well documented that the OE chains (originally different manufacturers/countries) used on the NC range are not the best quality.

 

I got my bike at about 2k miles and it had the rhythmic "thrum...thrum...thrum" that quite a few people commented on. I didn't like the overall feel of the chain and changed it at about 4k miles for a DID VX2, cost around £60. The sprockets looked as good as new so left them. The difference has been very marked, the "thrum" disappeared immediately, the new chain feels smooth and silky in comparison, no tight links, no tight spots in the rotation, and has required minimal adjustment in around 8k miles so far.

 

To be honest I think the only solution to your chain is replacement. Whether you want to take that up through possible warranty or bite the bullet and just do it is your choice. Unfortunately bad chains don't generally "heal", it's only going to get worse.

 

Only other thing I'd add, you'll come across threads discussing replacing the 520 chain with a 525 set. It really isn't necessary, a good quality 520 is fine. The quality is the issue, not the size.

[Trev 18,798]

Echo above really; I've been unhappy with the chain on my NC700X DCT since I got it with 2k miles on it, constant adjustment, tight spot from about 4k and not suited to the bikes low revving motor. Kept telling myself i would change it and finally did so last week on 14k miles, big tight spot but still adjustment left in terms of length. Went for a £49 fleabay X-Ring JD chain, easy fit using split link (ground and punched off old chain) and has transformed the feel of the bike. Will be interesting to see what it feels like and whther a tight spot develops after a few thousand miles.

[Guest chicken george]

I just replaced my chain myself after a little under 20k miles. Silky smooth with a DID 520 VX2. Also kept my sprockets as they were hardly worn.

 

Don't forget that the 30-40 mm that it says in the manual is while on the side stand. It's hard to tell, but it looks a little tight for being on a stand.

 

 

 

 

DRIVE CHAIN SLACK INSPECTION

Turn the ignition switch OFF, support the motorcycle on
its sidestand and shift the transmission into neutral.
Check the slack in the drive chain lower run midway
between the sprockets.

DRIVE CHAIN SLACK:
NC700X/XA/XD:
30 – 40 mm (1.2 – 1.6 in)
NC700S/SA/SD:
25 – 35 mm (1.0 – 1.4 in)