Do I need new sprocket ?

[rjp996 1,091]

Hi, I've had the bike now 4.5 months and it went for its 8k mile second service the other day. It had an advisory for tight spots on the chain requiring new chain and sprockets. I think I'm going to get a DID VX2 endless chain and have a go at removing the swing arm, however do I really need new sprockets ????, to me the don't look worn or hooked, but was after someone else's opinion please. Attached is a picture or the rear sprocket, the front is in the same condition. Thanks.

http://www.dropbox.com/s/fw4elgswleypf40/Photo%2019-08-2015%2011%2030%2002.jpg?dl=0

[bazza 3,629]

I can't see any wear either!

[rjp996 1,091]

Cool thanks for the second opinion. Think I will just change the chain at this stage and see how things go.

[Guest robin]

Usually change sprockets at same time so they will last just as long.

 

Price them.  For the price????

[kharli 100]

i would always change the front sprocket ,the rear lasts at least two imo depending on chain lubrication .

[Guest bonekicker]

Richard this answers your post--test pic--now I see why???---I don't I would change sprockets either--hardly any wear---but you have to make your own mind up.

Edited August 19, 2015 by bonekicker

[embee 7,288]

That rear looks near perfect, definitely no need to renew.

 

Personally I'm happy to fit a new chain to "used" sprockets. The key is that the tooth pitch stays effectively the same providing the tooth wear is minimal (i.e. you have to look hard to decide whether there is any wear or not). As a chain wears the pitch extends, so the loading gets more irregular as it wears, each roller arrives with a slight mis-match with the tooth, but at least with a new chain the pitch is correct.

 

Technically yes you renew as a set, but practicality sometimes says just the chain will be fine, and very few people will ever say it's OK to fit a new chain to used sprockets because they'll always cover themselves, but it's up to you. I've certainly done it plenty of times in the past. Remember that a new chain will cause much less wear on the sprockets than the old chain did.

 

Now the really contentious bit. I see no reason not to reverse the gearbox sprocket if it is symmetrical (which the NC is). Practically all the wear will be on the drive side of the teeth, very little will be on the overrun side. Why not reverse it? The worst that you get is the overrun puts the same condition on the chain that the drive would normally. Of course this all depends on the sprocket looking essentially unworn, if it's hooked or thin teeth then no, fit a new one.

 

I've had the swingarm out of the Integra, no real issues, no special tools (other than the usual sockets/spanners etc), gives an ideal opportunity to grease the suspension linkage. A centre stand makes it easy. No real need to undo the top suspension mount bolt, it's a rubber bush in that end anyway so no grease.

 

... and as an aside, technically the teeth are the "sprockets", the whole item is a sprocket wheel, but everyone refers to the wheel as "a sprocket" these days. Architecturally a sprocket is a projecting timber etc, often roof related.

[kharli 100]

My reasoning on front sprocket always to be changed is that its small and takes a lot of load from the 270 deg crank pulses and is not spread out over the larger cush drive cushioned rear sprocket . It would take very little wear on the front to considerably increase `shock` loading on individual links . But I have only an opinion and no `proof ,but its on several forums that this is the case.

[Guest John_Minus_600]

If you do change them I'll happily bin the old ones for you. 

 

I was always told old sprockets and new chains are a bad idea, as they can damage the new chain leading to premature failure. But in the case of the sprocket in the picture, and if it was on my bike, I'd leave it on personally.

[Edwin 59]

Fit new ones....fit quality and fit an oiler at the same time unless cleaning lubing and adjusting chains are things you enjoy doing. 

[rjp996 1,091]

I've just been looking at the bike and the service manual - it look like if I remove the front sprocket I could get an endless chain threaded up without removing the rear swing arm. Am I missing something or is this how others have done it - just off to take the front sprocket cover for a better look, but looks possible...

[Rev Ken 6,348]

I've just been looking at the bike and the service manual - it look like if I remove the front sprocket I could get an endless chain threaded up without removing the rear swing arm. Am I missing something or is this how others have done it - just off to take the front sprocket cover for a better look, but looks possible...

Now that would be clever! Unless you've got a single arm holding your rear wheel on!

[rjp996 1,091]

Well, back from the garage and I will have to scrub that idea ;-). Took the front sprocket cover off and of course there is a great big swing a pin in the way (missed that one when reading the manual diagram....).

If anyone has fitted an endless chain it looks like you remove the two dog bone links on the bottom of shock suspension, take the rear claper off and the fixings that hold pipe work to the swing arm, and remove the swing arm bolt. Manual talks about also removing rear exhaust but look like would get away without. Anyone done this on theirs. Thnaks

[Guest Badger77]

Fitting a new chain to previously used sprockets is bad practice. Although you can't see it, the sprockets are worn, and fitting a new chain to worn sprockets will accelerate the wear of the new chain, but it's your money and your choice, so good luck.

[embee 7,288]

No real need to remove silencer, although that's only 2 fasteners so no big deal if you want to. Probably clears the space usefully though I don't remove it as a matter of course.

 

Undo the gearbox sprocket bolt before dismantling the chain drive.

 

If it's a DCT you undo the park brake caliper (2 bolts) and just lower it down, cable stays attached.

 

Normal procedure to remove back wheel, with a new chain you'll need to reset the adjusters anyway so you may as well back them right off at this stage. Undo the brake hose/ABS cable clips on the swingarm. Wheel forward to disengage the chain, hook it over the end of the swingarm (tape on swingarm useful to protect paint).,  remove wheel spindle, ease wheel back and disengage caliper from the peg. Carefully store caliper on its hose to one side, don't stress the hose unnecessarily.

 

Easiest to remove chainguard (mine isn't standard so a bit different.

 

Undo the dogbone bolt to the rocker and the rocker pivot and suspension unit bolt to remove the rocker from the bike. Undo the swingarm pivot and remove, swingarm should then be able to drop down and off the bottom of the shock.

 

Clean the suspension link bearing sleeve ends and carefully ease them through the bearings so you can apply grease. If it's all clean I don't try to wash the bearings out, just add fresh grease, fully pack them using a finger. Remember the lower shock bearing too, and the bearing where the dogbones fit on the swingarm.. You can also do the swingarm bearings. Check what the assembly looks like at http://www.bike-parts-honda.com/

 

Remember to install the new chain before refitting the swingarm! It has been forgotten before now.

 

Nothing very complex, just a logical sequence really.

[glencoeman 129]

It is worth fitting a new gearbox sprocket as that usually wears quicker than the rear wheel sprocket. Regarding the wheel sprocket, if you feel one of the teeth between your thumb and forefinger and feel a ridge on the teeth, then its worn out even though visually it looks OK. When you have a rear sprocket with ridges on the teeth, the bike will make loud clicking noises when you push it backwards.

Edited August 20, 2015 by glencoeman

[Guest chicken george]

I don't know why people get this crazy idea to remove the swing arm. Invest in the proper did chain rivet tool. So easy to use. You have it for life for future chains.....

[Rocker66 34,614]

Fitting a new chain to previously used sprockets is bad practice. Although you can't see it, the sprockets are worn, and fitting a new chain to worn sprockets will accelerate the wear of the new chain, but it's your money and your choice, so good luck.

+1

[Guest Badger77]

I don't know why people get this crazy idea to remove the swing arm. Invest in the proper did chain rivet tool. So easy to use. You have it for life for future chains.....

I Agree, I have one and they are simple to use.

[rjp996 1,091]

I've been looking through chain tool reviews and I've reached information overload. I see some that appear to flair the rivot by screwing down a pin onto its head, and I see others that look like you have to somehow install the tool on the chain once it's on the bike and somehow pound on the tool with a hammer to flair the pin (with warnings in the reviews of pounding to hard and freezing the link)...

Could anyone recomend to me a chain tool that they are very happy with (I like buying good tools, so I'm not so fussed about the cost).

Thanks for all the feedback on the sprocket.

[embee 7,288]

You need the correct tool for the type of link pins your chain uses. Hollow or solid pins use different method.

It's no big deal to drop the swingarm and let's you grease the bearings, but if you don't want to do that then it's fine.

[Guest chicken george]

I've been looking through chain tool reviews and I've reached information overload. I see some that appear to flair the rivot by screwing down a pin onto its head, and I see others that look like you have to somehow install the tool on the chain once it's on the bike and somehow pound on the tool with a hammer to flair the pin (with warnings in the reviews of pounding to hard and freezing the link)...

Could anyone recomend to me a chain tool that they are very happy with (I like buying good tools, so I'm not so fussed about the cost).

Thanks for all the feedback on the sprocket.

 

The d.i.d. chain tool (KM500R) for d.i.d. chains...It's a 100 pounds but should last for ages. This type is screw method. You will need a 27mm ring spanner which are about a tenner from halfords.

 

Cheers

[kharli 100]

I've used my ognibene free tool on three chains now. You have to tighten to what feels breaking point to get the correct spread on the pins which I check with a calliper micrometer. Even though the ognibene chain was ok,it had a short life before stretching to the limit but it works ok on the did vx2 and has a simple mechanism to avoid pinching the links