Puncture - How do you re-align rear wheel

[rjp996 1,091]

Well, my nice new PR4 rear tyre with only 300 miles on it suffered a puncture the other night on the M25 - so i'm £130 lighter this morning, had the catch the train to work (grrrr) and have to re-fit the wheel tonight after work.

 

When i took out the wheel I backed off the chain adjusters on both side by 3 half turns each, so as a rough guide I can put the wheel back in and wind the adjusters back the 3 (half turns). However how do people normally align the rear wheel.

 

I was thinking that if I the axel had been hollow I could have extended the axel length by passing a rod through the middle and measuring the distance from the ends of the bar to the swingarm bolt (assuming the swing arm is straight).

 

Similarly I thought about running a straight edge down both sides of the trye and measuring the distance between that extended line and the bottom of the center of the front wheel.

 

But having not done this before, im a little unsure of best practice.

 

 

[Guest bonekicker]

[Guest John_Minus_600]

As above, I use the alignment marks on the swing arm. There are loads of fancy gadgets for aligning the rear whee, laser line's etc, l but I've never used them personally...

[rjp996 1,091]

If you guys use the swing arm marks then i'm good with that too - thanks.

[Trev 18,755]

I have a couple of 1" diam lengths of steel tube that I use for wheel alignment as don't trust manufacturers marks, particularly on older bikes, some are miles out. For what it's worth though, when I checked alignment on the NC using them the marks on the adjusters lined up as well.

[scoot_to_boot 154]

I bought a laser line when I had a little money burning in my pocket, and find it very easy to use.

https://www.louis.de/en/artikel/profi-laser-cat/10003097

[Edwin 59]

I bought a laser line when I had a little money burning in my pocket, and find it very easy to use.

https://www.louis.de/en/artikel/profi-laser-cat/10003097

Me too but I've only used it in anger once so far.  I tried it of my RD350 and to my disgust it was already perfectly aligned!     (nice to know for certain though)

[Trev 18,755]

I bought a laser line when I had a little money burning in my pocket, and find it very easy to use.

https://www.louis.de/en/artikel/profi-laser-cat/10003097

 

I'm going to go for that as not too expensive and probably a damn sight easier that the tube method I use and less chance of scratching paintwork (again  ) when I'm swinging the tube around the garage, thanks 

[bazza 3,629]

i am not so worried about the alignment as the chain adjustment.After 10,000 miles -the last 4000 in 12 days on my womble- the chain is nicely lubricated, thanks loobman - but I always seem to get the chain too tight.If you measure on the stand then the suspension is extended -to a situation its rarely at on the road ( in the air over bumps?) If you set it when sat on the bike compressing the suspension - a LOT ion my case- then that's totally different again

so without a helper - what the forum reckon?Alightment - use a tape!

 

bazza

[DB1965 224]

Hi Richard just remember to check whilst tightening as the swing arm is slightly sprung to a point as this often moves whilst tightening  

Edited August 27, 2015 by DB1965

[Guest mrgrumpy2]

I have a couple of 1" diam lengths of steel tube that I use for wheel alignment as don't trust manufacturers marks, particularly on older bikes, some are miles out. For what it's worth though, when I checked alignment on the NC using them the marks on the adjusters lined up as well.

 

I also use the big stick method. Its easy, just get the front wheel near the middle of the gap.

[Mikdent 4,070]

Chain alignment tool.

Edited August 27, 2015 by Mikdent

[rjp996 1,091]

Thanks for all the suggestions - wheel is back on and feels ok. I ended up using a few techniques just to be sure...

Measured the swing arm markers on both sides the same - all good.

Measured centre axle to swing arm mount on both sides - all good.

Ran string down the sides of the tyres to the front and measures gap between strung and from tyre on both sides - maybe 1mm diff, but the string I had was garden twine, and because of the centre stand you need to make the measurement very low on the rear tyre so not great - on balance I thing the measurements were ok.

So I have this all to do again next week, as I'm changing the chain etc and need to drop the swing arm to get it on (endless chain).

Good thing I'm getting to know the bike better, and nothing has been difficult so far.

[Guest chicken george]

Thanks for all the suggestions - wheel is back on and feels ok. I ended up using a few techniques just to be sure...

Measured the swing arm markers on both sides the same - all good.

Measured centre axle to swing arm mount on both sides - all good.

Ran string down the sides of the tyres to the front and measures gap between strung and from tyre on both sides - maybe 1mm diff, but the string I had was garden twine, and because of the centre stand you need to make the measurement very low on the rear tyre so not great - on balance I thing the measurements were ok.

So I have this all to do again next week, as I'm changing the chain etc and need to drop the swing arm to get it on (endless chain).

Good thing I'm getting to know the bike better, and nothing has been difficult so far.

 

hmm, i tried all these methods (except the string) and decided to buy a http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005EY28D4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

 

Ok, £35 is a lot compared to the rod style alignment tool, but you can shine the laser right up to almost the front sprocket.

 

Turns out my alignment was off. Even when you tighten up the axle bolt the alignment goes out slightly (when the swing arm pinches together).

 

cheers

[lipsee 1,351]

I could never get my NC feelling right after I the first service,I suspect the frame marks where wrong,,,,I looked at some of the alignment tools but was priced too high for me,,they wanted £95,,,now thats abit rich