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I've been using them for tyres for years, and previously had chain and sprockets done by them, and have always been very happy. But I had never had a service done by them - always Dobles until now. I thought that, given I needed a new front tyre and a chain and sprocket kit, which they would almost certainly do more cheaply than Dobles, I'd get those done and let them do the (40k) service at the same time. I'm pleased that they spotted the cable issue. They seem to have done a good job overall. This is a good outfit, IMO. The work is done promptly (often ride in ride out), done well, and the

You could check out WeMoto they do some good alternative disks (and pads) which ARE cheaper than Honda. I replaced both front and rear discs at around 120K miles with HONDA replacements. I prefer to use Honda brake pads - front tend to last ~25K and rear a bit more

The basic design down at the engine end is used on other Honda models. It uses a bolt-on steel bracket for the outer cable abutment. These don't always line up exactly with the clutch operating lever on the engine casing and the inner rubs at an angle where it exits the cable outer. The fix for this is highly technical , and involves bending the bracket (5) so the inner runs as near central in the sleeve as you can get it. Easy to do and well worth the effort. You can also get the inner rubbing a bit heavily up at the handlebar lever end if the cable run isn't quite right, t

I had a throttle cable snap on a 10 year old moped I'd recently bought. After that a bit of 3-in-1 oil every now and then meant I've had no further cable trouble in 40+ years. My daughter told me her gear changes on her Atoz were difficult and the clutch not fully disengaging, even after she had a garage look at it - "possible new clutch". Opened the bonnet - clutch cable into the cabin ended in a metal right-angled elbow and when the clutch was pressed, the inner cable was visibly taking a short cut as it had worn through the inner curve of the elbow. Shitty design (and shitty me

Raise the rear wheel off the ground. Move the wheel side to side and you'll see and feel play in the bearing. More likely to occur on the right/disc side as it's more exposed to the elements. It is pretty obvious if you do have play. If not, then rotate the wheel and it should spin freely, providing the chain it's too tight etc.