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Yeh, right! Andy.

Well done you guys. This forum is AWSOME!!

Always a question worth asking! My 2016 T100 was still on the ‘factory gates’ version (a downside of home servicing) and, following my tweaking it last winter, I had my dealer check it. They updated it with the latest version (FOC) and a general improvement resulted. I now have more power (cam) and better mpg (software).

No it is far simpler - it has a high first gear with low rev torque - I stalled a few times on my 2013 F800GT, but once learnt - it took me a few stalls.... it isn't a problem.

I've just seen a 3 year old NC750S with only 600 miles on the clock. It was still serviced every year though!! Bargain for someone.

Has it got the latest version of the software? Even if you've had it in to the dealers it might be worth checking the version installed as they often don't automatically install the latest version especially if the customer isn't complaining of any issues that might possibly be software related. Sometimes even if the customer does complain some dealers have been known to assume the software is up to date and that the problem is something else and embark a series of often expensive part swaps. In true forum fashion I'm going to wander off topic. Back in 2005 a friend bo

Thank you Brian Thats very useful advice. I will [or rather get son to] try the bleeding rear brakes first. Also get him to try the brakes as he is used to modern bikes [he did test ride a NC and said the brakes were great!] Steve

You can improve the rear brake feel if it bothers you. My NC from new had almost zero rear braking, but a quick bleed of the rear system and it was much better. Was surprised about how many bubbles came out.

Got started this morning doing the checks, checked the main fuse, fine. continued down the line to the ignition switch and disconnected the connection below the ignition switch to get a reading, no reading on looking further the female part of the connection was so corroded it turned to dust when I gave it a good poke, ah that's not so good. I disconnected the battery and stripped the connection fitting a new 6.3mm connector that I had in the garage. connected the battery back up turned the ignition switch and eureka it works. I have to say a big thank you to everyone who has helped me trouble

I don't think that particular meter has a continuity bleep test, if it did it wail have the bleep symbol i mentioned next to the diode. You can still test continuity visually using the Ohms scale to measure resistance. (It's a long time since I used a meter where you set the range manually, so I can't remember what the display says when the reading is out of range, for resistance I think it's '1M' for the range being set too low, but I'm not 100% on this.) Firstly and most important, Make sure the Power is off and ideally, unless you know what you are doing, you should di