Another DCT stuck in gear

[Guest Koolbikegirl]

Embee thanks

Im wondering if im catching the transmission change button (at/mt? Its early i might have got name wrong) with my thick winter gloves today im going to Wells next the sea, its a good long ride so i need to really watch where my right hand likes to sit in case thats it and im panicing for nothing. TBH i want my stupidity to be the case coz i can fix that, anything else its off to the dealer which is rubbish to say the least.

For the first time in ages, i hope im stupid lol!

I'll look at the stand in a bit too thanks!

[Guest Hati]

...with my thick winter gloves today im going to Wells next the sea, its a good long ride so i need to really watch where my right hand likes to sit ...

 

 

 

I keep index finger on the brake lever at all times, a lot harder to accidentally hit the A/M button.

[embee 7,288]

I've just thought (rare but it happens!), a very simple check of the sidestand switch is to put the bike in gear and wiggle the sidestand a bit. If the switch is a bit touchy it should stop the engine. It'll definitely stop when you put the sidestand down fully. It will let you see how near fully up the switch operates, and whether it's reliably consistent.

 

The accidental A/M nudge would certainly explain not changing up from first, but probably not the other stuff, flashing display etc.

[ChrisCB 6,672]

Sidestand problems more likely particularly if your stand has been shortened and people have had it on and off. Switching AT/MT button will display what gear you're in at the time not the lines flashing.

[Guest Koolbikegirl]

Hello all *waves and smiles

I cleaned all round, under, on - side stand. I had a play pulling it down it seemed to behave as it should. I rode 150 miles after cleaning today nothing untoward happened, i was very aware of keeping my index finger knuckle away from A/M button but actually my hand is prone to keep right anyway.

Thank you all for advice, comments and suggestions, i'll keep you posted if anything happens. Im out again tomorro

[embee 7,288]

Fingers crossed.

[Huskyteer 1,091]

Had this happen twice in one rideout a few weekends ago, after many weeks in which it was fine. I'm also noticing some hesitation when changing from 2nd to 1st, which I usually correct with a manual change. Yesterday, I left it to struggle in 2nd, which provoked the dreaded flashing dash.

 

It'll need a major service in a couple of thousand miles, and I'm resigned to giving it up for a few days while it undergoes a thorough poke and prod.

[Guest Mokel]

I had this problem yesterday. Rocking the bike back and forth didn't fix it, but:

 

For whatever reason, DCT was stuck in 1st therefore pressing the starter had no effect.

Rocking the bike back and forth didn't fix it, but..

 

Charged the battery overnight (CTEK MXS 5.0) and when I turned the ignition this morning I heard the 'clunk' as it selected neutral - and all was well again.

The battery didn't quite have the power to do this prior to topping it up.

 

For what it's worth, I believe the bike got stuck in 1st because I turned the ignition off whilst in 1st AND the bike was still moving down a slope.

Despite the lack of power in the battery I doubt I would have found myself with this problem if I had selected neutral before turning the ignition off.

[Mike5100 2,061]

I had this problem yesterday. Rocking the bike back and forth didn't fix it, but:

 

For whatever reason, DCT was stuck in 1st therefore pressing the starter had no effect.

Rocking the bike back and forth didn't fix it, but..

 

Charged the battery overnight (CTEK MXS 5.0) and when I turned the ignition this morning I heard the 'clunk' as it selected neutral - and all was well again.

The battery didn't quite have the power to do this prior to topping it up.

 

For what it's worth, I believe the bike got stuck in 1st because I turned the ignition off whilst in 1st AND the bike was still moving down a slope.

Despite the lack of power in the battery I doubt I would have found myself with this problem if I had selected neutral before turning the ignition off.

You might be right Mokei, but my guess is that the fact you were moving is not relevant.  If I switch off while in gear, then next morning when I come to start up it always does its thing of selecting neutral before attempting to turn the engine over.  If the battery isn;t up to moving that electric motor then it will be stuck in 1st by the sound of it.  It's never happened to me yet, and my battery (2 years old and 16k miles) has always seemed weak - much more sluggish than the 700X dct that I had.

Mike

[Guest Mokel]

You might be right Mokei, but my guess is that the fact you were moving is not relevant. 

 

Probably right. First and last time I try that manoeuvre anyway

[Guest 7even]

After buying the NC, in my first long trip, +- 2.000 lm, while driving, the engine shut-off sudenly.

I pulled over, and try to check it out.

 

When turning the ignition on, I heard the Clutch trying to put in neutral, but wasn´t able, tried the starter, but it wont work.

So, I un-hoocked the batery, wait a whyle, plug it back, and try again. Nothing done!!

 

So, I called my Honda dealer and explained the problem to the mecanic, it went to his books, and give me the code to reset the DCT.

Try it and still didn´t work.

 

In desper, 200 km away from home, I took a deap breath, and try it again: unpluged the baterry one more time, waited 10 minutes. Pluged it back, inserted the reset code once more, pray a bit, and ........

It worked!!!!

 

No more problems since.

Edited January 28, 2016 by 7even

[MGR1 40]

After buying the NC, in my first long trip, +- 2.000 lm, while driving, the engine shut-off sudenly.

I pulled over, and try to check it out.

 

When turning the ignition on, I heard the Clutch trying to put in neutral, but wasn´t able, tried the starter, but it wont work.

So, I un-hoocked the batery, wait a whyle, plug it back, and try again. Nothing done!!

 

So, I called my Honda dealer and explained the problem to the mecanic, it went to his books, and give me the code to reset the DCT.

Try it and still didn´t work.

 

In desper, 200 km away from home, I took a deap breath, and try it again: unpluged the baterry one more time, waited 10 minutes. Pluged it back, inserted the reset code once more, pray a bit, and ........

It worked!!!!

 

No more problems since.

 

Great that you managed to get home! Worrying however... Could you describe the procedure to reset the DCT?

[embee 7,288]

The question has to be why did the engine shut off? These things are usually connections, quite possibly a poor battery terminal connection or maybe a kill-switch issue. Modern electronics don't like unstable voltages and they often have some protection strategy, it's quite likely that if it sees unstable voltages or spikes it will either go into some sort of limp mode or shut down in order to protect everything from possible damage.

 

Glad you got going again. Hope it doesn't happen again.

 

Always useful information to hear of these issues and how they get resolved.

[Guest 7even]

Great that you managed to get home! Worrying however... Could you describe the procedure to reset the DCT?

MGR1, it´s very simple:

 

- Put the clutch in N, switch-off the engine.

- While pressing D, switch the ignition on, wait until the yellow symbol of the engine desapears in the dash-board, then let go D.

- Press in fast sequence: DDNDN.

- In the dash, the letters D and S should apeear at once.

- Turn on the engine, but don´t accelerate!

- After a few seconds, the letters D and S go out.

 

That´s it!! Reset done.

 

[Guest Hati]

Just as a heads up to anyone else needing to reset the DCT, no need to disconnect the battery. Just follow the instruction 7even provided and it should work fine.

 

I had mine go into "programming" mode (for lack of better term) after I tried Heal-Tech's OBD tool (plan to do my own servicing) and reset an error code while the engine was running. At the time I didn't realise as I didn't ride the bike, but the gearbox was left in a strange mode. I had both D and S showing on the dash. The box would not shift up by itself, however it worked fine doing it manually. Downshifts did work but only when the bike really slowed down, definitely not in the usual manner that puts engine brake to good use. I thought a reset might help and applied it as above. It worked a treat without having to disconnect the battery.

[Guest wimd1145]

Like another poster, this happened to me on Day 1 of a long trip - seems to be a pattern

I was on my way through Germany when I looked down and saw a flashing dash and no mode shown on the gear indicator. Couldn't change up or down, into D or S, or into manual. When I turned the ignition off and on the display showed 3, but I tried again and everything was normal.

We were lucky enough to spot a Honda dealer, so we went in and showed the mechanic the relevant page of the manual. He had a quick ride and reported there was nothing wrong with the clutch, and maybe my heated grips were drawing too much current. He didn't seem worried, so we went on our merry way.

The problem recurred a couple of times over the next two days. It seemed to me that it happened when I whacked the throttle open for an overtake, so I tried being a bit more gentle with it and had no more trouble. It did put me off a bit and make me ride more cautiously, but at least my holiday didn't end with a trip in a breakdown van.

The bike is overdue a service so maybe the computer needs a reboot?

 

I had the same problem last week during my daily ride to work.

Brought the Integra (2012 - 24000km) to the dealer to sort this out.

Inside the DCT was a small shaft broken (nr 6 on drawing)

 

 

The broken part is an M10 bolt with a small shaft spotwelded to the bolthead. Very under-engineerd if you ask me .

This small shaft was broken off the M10 bolt which created shifting problems.

[Guest smonestel]

Had this happen twice in one rideout a few weekends ago, after many weeks in which it was fine. I'm also noticing some hesitation when changing from 2nd to 1st, which I usually correct with a manual change. Yesterday, I left it to struggle in 2nd, which provoked the dreaded flashing dash.

 

It'll need a major service in a couple of thousand miles, and I'm resigned to giving it up for a few days while it undergoes a thorough poke and prod.

Hi Alice, I'm curious to see if your dealer was finally able to identify and correct the root cause of this issue. I have experienced exactly the same situation you described, my dealer replaced the sensor but the problem persist. 

 

I'm worried it could be something like what happen to Win in with the broken shaft inside the DCT(previus post).

 

Thanks,

Steven Monestel 

 

Edited March 9, 2016 by smonestel

[Huskyteer 1,091]

Hi Steven - still no solution, and the problem is, well, consistently inconsistent. There'll be nothing for weeks or months, then it'll happen twice in two days.

[Guest Hati]

Is yours a 700 as well Alice? Wonder if this pin issue is restricted to the 700 model... Well, I am hoping at least If yours will be traced to that pin too that is.

[Huskyteer 1,091]

Yep, a 700! They might have fixed it in the 750 without ever knowing what the problem was Here's hoping/

[Guest wimd1145]

Hi Steven - still no solution, and the problem is, well, consistently inconsistent. There'll be nothing for weeks or months, then it'll happen twice in two days.

Alice,

 

I think it's best to go to your dealer and let them check the shaft.

Your story is exact the same as what happend to me, the hesitating between gears and than the flashing gear light.

[Guest BG5067]

Sorry to bring this thread back up but I'm having the same issues as well.

 

it only done it twice, once when I was cruising at about 45mph and the other when I was going 30-35mph. Dobles rest the thingy and that's when it happened on the 2nd occasion, I'm wondering if it's the stand as well going from these posts.

 

Mines done 47k miles with 1 owner from new with a full service history

in the meantime I'm on a courtesy NC750s manual but it's playing havoc on my wrists with all the gear changes, (didn't realise how hard the dct works half the time lol)

[Guest Murray]

My wife's 700X DCT has developed the same problem, although over a period of time it has gotten worse. The gear box solenoids have been serviced, which seemed to solve the problem, although only temporarily. It is going in again for possible replacement of the solenoid(s), there are 3 of them for the gear box. I am told that, for reasons which could not be explained to me, the errors are not all stored on the bike computer, the only way for them to get the error specific to that failure, at that time, is to connect the bike to the computer. However, annoyingly enough, with DCT issues, especially this one, and the DCT going into safe mode, it will automatically reset itself in an hour. Will post again once they have checked it, and work has been done.

 

There has only been one other continuous DCT issue that they are aware of, on an Integra, which after a few sensor replacements, came down to the solenoids being replaced.

[gardener 126]

It happened to me yesterday on my 2016 750x.It only came out of the 600 mile service on wednesday.There i was riding along and i noticed it was revving really high.Luckily i was near a side road so turned off and tried to restart.All i could hear was clicking and the dash was going mental and not going into any drive on the dash.I heard the fan start up so wondered what was going on there.left it for a couple of minutes and then all was fine.

Anyone  know what to do if this happens when travelling on a a large road.How can you get safely off the road on a dct bike if in the fast lane? Anyone think it is worth doing the reset as advised in this thread?

Edited July 17, 2016 by gardener

[Guest sykospain]

That one from Gardener with his new model is worrying.

I was all ready to put all these issues down to electrical bad contacts or falling battery voltages - but for it to happen just after a first service on a brand-new new-model bike is really a pig.