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Showing content with the highest reputation on 19/01/17 in all areas

  1. hi robin, to stop the end plate from being loose,when tightening the axle nut , place your spanner or socket on the nut with the handle pointing up and push away from rear of bike to tighten it, if you do it with the handle hanging down and pull from rear of bike you pull the axle back slightlly causing the end plate to be loose and pulling the wheel out of line slightly. al.
    3 points
  2. I can confirm the rule of thumb chain slack measurement system Murray is mentioing above. One day I spent a couple of hours with a vernier calliper and taking lots of measurement to try and get the figures that Honda wanted (well - I had nothing better to do. When I had got it spot on (I think it was 35mm on sidestand but could stand corrected). Anyway I found that when on sidestand if you try and flap the midpoint of the lower chain run up to the swing arm it just misses it. If you then put it on the centrestand it just touches it and makes a slight clacking sound when you do it. This is
    1 point
  3. The way I do it is to retain some tension in the axle nut. Loose enough that it slides as you tighten the adjuster but not enough for things to slop about. Seems to work for me.
    1 point
  4. That's exactly what happened to me Chris. Got a cheapo Pyramid one then saw the carbon ones. The method of fitting is worth discussing for people just buying them now. Many of them come with a few strips of adhesive tape already fitted. IMHO these should be scraped off and the surface cleaned with ideally 'Stickystuffremover' or failing that cellulose paint thinner. Once water penetrates the inevitable little gaps left around this stuff the entenda will come unstuck, and if you think about it and the direction the wheel is moving, it is possible that it could trash the mudguard and maybe g
    1 point
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