Leaderboard

According to the procedure of HISS key registration, all keys are registered again, so it's safe to assume that all keys are wiped. You can't just add or delete a key. As I understand PCM/ECU reads the ID of every key through RFID technology and remembers it until you start a new registration procedure.

I think there is a fairly simple process, perhaps it was embee who described it, whereby you can program a new key to your ECU, which I assume means that some ID data from the ECU is lodged into the HISS chip in the key. However, I am not sure if there is a unique ID for each key which goes the other way and is remembered by the ECU and can therefore later be wiped. If not, as you say the bike will be vulnerable. Hopefully this is not the case, and there is a unique ID for each key that a dealer can wipe from the ECU. This link would suggest that keys do have codes which are held in the EC

No, it's designed for things like flat batteries.

People are only too happy to write to their respective Honda importers such as Honda U.K. To complain but I wonder how many write to praise dealers who have gone the extra mile to help out. When Lloyds in Carlisle ( a shop I had never been in before) took a brake lever off a brand new Crossrunner and fitted whilst I had a coffee to save my holiday to Scotland whilst only charging me for the lever I did just that. I wrote to both Honda UK and the managing director of Lloyds to tell them how much their actions were appreciated

The best is to have the battery disconnected to allow the charger to apply the desulfation stage (i.e. higher voltages) or avoid any damage if the charger is not smart enough or defective. It's always a good idea to know your charger. The usual boring RTFM, and personally I'm doing my measurements with a multimeter (that way I turned down Lidl's Ultimate Speed smart charger. Definitely it was overcharging the battery...).

Do them as a pair. In my experience if one side leaks the other side may well be not far behind, you'd kick yourself if you end up having to go through the process a second time. As Steve says, remove mudguard, caliper & wheel. Crack the damper retainer bolt (20) in the bottom of the fork leg, slacken the top yoke pinch so it isn't gripping the stanchion, then slacken the top cap while the bottom yoke still grips it. Note that when you then slacken the bottom yoke pinch bolt the leg will drop, so keep hold of it at this stage. It's not usually difficult to prise the dust seal o