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I've been changing tyres and thought I'd post my notes for anyone trying the same [/url] To avoid any legal action by Haynes I use the barsteward level of difficulty rather than spanners. I'm rating this "Donald Trump" as the brake calliper is full of spring clips that ping off into the dark recesses of the garage. I much prefer callipers that have separate pad retainers and mounting bolts. The front version is WIP. Andy

When I lost my key I had to buy a chipped blank from Honda for about £40. I had to get a locksmith to cut it for me and my local dealer reset the two keys for £10. Then I found the original key which still unlocks the bike but isn't recognised by the ignition system. After I'd paid for all this I discovered I had lost key insurance cover (which I'd forgotten about).

In simple terms, No and no. I have seen the damage these sealants can do to the inside of the rims through corrosion. Personally I carry a puncture repair kit instead, the twisted rubber "string" sort with a CO2 inflator. Other opinions/options are available. Brian

I would but my commute involves a constant climb from work to home that the Tour De France would be proud of. So Motorcycle it is. Plus in summer, the Journey home is always much longer distance wise, nothing like a good blast over the hills.

Genuine Honda seals have a spring tensioner on BOTH sides of the seal, Cheaper seals do not. They will typically will last longer than a third party seal so would be worth the extra. I'd also replace the dust seals whilst you are at it. The new seals should be greased with fork specific grease as well. You can buy stainless steel clips as well to hold the seal in. The original clips do rust under the dust seal. And remember, they need go in a certain way round, otherwise they just leak right away (from personal experience) . I have a selection of plastic pipes used for drifting in seals and b

DMB, I had considered taking it up to John Harris, but i work in an industry where i work on some very abstract, non material delivery's (algo's) so don't get to fulfill my desire to a make and do things.... so part of the enjoyment for me is in doing something practical and getting the warm feeling of achievement - when it goes well :-) Wow that came out a bit deeper than I expected - if I get stuck at least I will be able to almost carry my bike in bits to John Harris :-)

My frunk is always at risk though. *unlocks giley's frunk*

In the meantime get yourself a disc lock, or good chain..

Andy, you really need new locks as well not just the hiss... Your frunk is at risk!

You can certainly add a new key, but I believe there is a maximum number of registered keys the ECU will recognise at one time. I don't know enough about the technical details to be specific on this. As Fred says, the coding process is not overly complicated, basically just needs a wire with a resistor and follow the procedure, you can find it on youtube, as far as I know all Honda HISS equipped bikes use the same procedure. You can get key blanks with the chip on the auction site for around £8, the chips are common type.

Do them as a pair. In my experience if one side leaks the other side may well be not far behind, you'd kick yourself if you end up having to go through the process a second time. As Steve says, remove mudguard, caliper & wheel. Crack the damper retainer bolt (20) in the bottom of the fork leg, slacken the top yoke pinch so it isn't gripping the stanchion, then slacken the top cap while the bottom yoke still grips it. Note that when you then slacken the bottom yoke pinch bolt the leg will drop, so keep hold of it at this stage. It's not usually difficult to prise the dust seal o

Before you remove the forks from the yokes it's a good idea to crack loose the bolts that hold the damper assemblies in place (the bolts that go up into the bottom of the fork sliders, the ones you can't get at until you remove the wheel spindle), it's a lot easier to do while the forks are held steady in the yokes & the spring pressure helps to stop the damper assemblies turning as you try and undo the bolts. Then loosen just the top-yoke pinch bolts and loosen the fork top nuts, again a lot easier before you remove the forks from the bike.