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As a preventative maintenance measure, while doing other work I took the camchain tensioner out of my 20k mile Integra. There have been a handful of reports of failed tensioners (exact failure mode not known), so an inspection was warranted. As far as I'm concerned this looks exactly as I would hope at this mileage, essentially no wear evident, just bedding where the chain runs. All the other parts, the links and springs etc, were as new. In usual Honda fashion, the designer who put one of the tensioner fixing bolts (with copper sealing washers) directly beneath the thermostat cover

Ok for what its worth here is my experience - take what you will from it. At around 70K miles I was at the point of changing to a different clutch for the same issue. But decided to change from 10w/30 to 10w/40 - fully synthetic. Instant improvement. Also, at around the same time I'd been farting about with different chains !!?? Upshot was using normal (good quality) chain and running it a bit on the slack side also helped. And that's it.... We're now at ~140K miles and gear box / clutch is best its ever been. At most recent service we (Paul from More Mo

I have gone blue holding my breath waiting for the answer😧😧

I once had someone tell me (in a voice full of wonderment) that he had tried his 'faulty' ECU on a different car (Suzuki Vitarra) and it had worked perfectly. But it wouldn't work on his own car. And neither would the 'good' ECU from the second car. He asked me what his next move should be? I suggested a job behind the cheese counter at Sainsbury's. Two minutes with a multi meter showed the crank sensor to be faulty (btw).

It's extremely rare for ECUs to fail these days, the manufacturing methods and quality control are such that build faults don't get through and in-use failure is almost unknown. Having said that, anything is possible. As I've said before, by far the most common and likely problem is with connectors. When they swapped the ECU I wonder if they swapped it back for the "faulty" original one to check the problem returned, and preferably swapped the "faulty" one onto the donor bike for the "good" ECU? Does the fault move with the "faulty" ECU? Quite often simply disconnecting the plug/so

Hi all All done on warranty let's just hope there is no more problems as warranty runs out in June. Thanks for your comments Lloyd

That is how I was taught

Just saying what instructors over the years teach and recommend - I was a 'Star Rider instructor and any rider who only used their rear brake, unless at very low speeds failed. As I've already said, 75%front, 25% rear (for the reasons you have identified), unless slippery then 50/50 and in extreme conditions only rear with everything crossed!

I'd be very careful about activ8 and similar additives. As far as I'm aware activ8 used to be basically chlorinated paraffins, an extreme pressure additive used once upon a time in heavy duty gearboxes (back in the 1930's I think). This works very well in the typical 4-ball test rigs often used to demonstrate the anti-scuff properties (see for example https://www.scribd.com/doc/77921431/Four-Ball-Test ) so the salesmen can make it look like a wonder treatment, but in higher temperature environments typical of engines it can cause serious chemical attack, especially of bronzes but other ma