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I've. Just had a big old service on my integra 700. I mentioned the issue with the sticking gear to the service team. It seems that the integra has been the main culprit for this fault though it has occurred on a few of the other nc bikes with dct. I wondered if it's because it is the heaviest of the nc range. Maybe this is one of the reasons the aluminium swing arm was put on the integra 750. No mention of a problem with the vfr's or Africa twin with dct. Anyway I took the plunge and agreed to have the work done on the gear box. I can't bring myself to say how much. It cost me an arm an

I had the tuturo on the Integra and found it quite tricky to get it right. It was very temperature dependent to get the viscosity/flow rate just right. I am going to give the Loobman a go on the AT and will let you know how I get on.

It is a see through bottle, as others have said use a torch, also removing the lower cowl makes it easier to see the level.

Torch through the filler hole ideally when dark and it's behind the lower belly plastic best to take the screw out from either side hold bike upright ideally when cold and level should be close on max line top up with silicate free coolant

Best to shine a torch on the bottle to see the level. Andy.

+1 for the PD Oilers, with one condition. the system seems to work very well and mine has been reliable and convenient ........ but the integrated ones (i.e. not the mini with a separate reservoir) are a total PITA to refill, what a stupid pea brained idea that was. I see they now do a clear version so at least you can see what's in there (if you don't have it tucked away out of sight), but having to use a syringe and dip-tube gubbins to fill and check the level is not user friendly. Otherwise yes I'd recommend them. The mini with separate bottle is the way to go if you can fit it somewhere.

I should have double checked my order, so partly my fault, I did email them within half an hour of placing my order that evening and tried ringing the next morning. Hopefully the next kit will arrive tomorrow and we'll take it from there😑.

One downside of DOT5 silicone fluids that I've heard but have no experience of is the very fact that they don't absorb moisture. This means that any moisture which does get into the system will stay as separated water and can cause corrosion and in extreme cases either freezing or boiling. The systems were designed for DOT4 type fluids, a bit risky to go to something completely different to what is recommended in my view (compatibility as Andy says, he knows about brakes). Plenty of cautionary info, just plucked from Google is http://www.britcycle.com/Manuals/DOT5.htm

I've been a brake test and systems engineer for 25 years. Silicone fluid in systems designed for non-silicone is pot luck. If they used compatible seals it'll be fine, if not it won't. We don't know. The fresh container advice is also about dust, they build ABS modulators in clean room conditions as some of the passages are very small. Its as big a black hole as any oil debate. The safe answer is to do what the manual says. Andy

Service intervals are nothing to do with engine wear. They are set at a meeting between the dealer network managers (who want short intervals) and marketing (who want long to make new sales easier). The bike market has no fleets who challenge this, so those selling oil set the interval. If you have your oil analysed it will tell you to service sooner in 1% of cases, as the manufacturer says in a few and longer in the vast majority. There is also the argument that very few users keep a bike for the the 100000 miles it will do. Why do you care what the fifth owner after you has to de

Probably you'll never notice it unless the moment you'll really need it, when things get really hot in the brake calipers... Sporty riding, a good downhill, emergency braking can bring to the surface any problems related to the contamination of the brake fluid. it's a better safe than sorry case... (Mittyvac is great help!)