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The specs that I've got give: Rear axle nut Torque: 98 N·m (10.0 kgf·m, 72 lbf·ft). should be 108 N.m for Driven sprocket nut Front Axle shaft Torque: 74 N·m (7.5 kgf·m, 55 lbf·ft). Front Axle pinch bolts Torque: 22 N·m (2.2 kgf·m, 16 lbf·ft)

My 1990 BMW GS1000 was the most unreliable bike I've owned in 'the modern era'. The next was a 2005 Guzzi Breva V1100. Both had shaft drive issues. Shaft drives have many good points but they are expensive when they go wrong. No problems with my other three shafties, of which two were Hondas. Chains have their bad points but they give excellent value for money and are commendably reliable, even when neglected, slack and badly worn. Only once have I had a chain break and that was in 1962. Modern chains are beautifully designed and made and with the right lubricant even mes

The correct way is to get a mate of your exact weight and size to sit on the bike. You get down and (assuming a 20 degree day) measure chain pin to swing arm hanging and pushed up. Your mate then walks forwards 6 1/4 inches (assuming standard chain pitch) and you repeat. Repeat again until you have 10 measurements. Average using the Randall-Hopkirk equation and compare to the manual. Repeat after any adjustment. Now get out your laser...... If however you have a life, pop it up on the centre stand (or keep wheeling about if side only), see if you can push the chain up more than the

Undo the electrical sensor plug from the rear of the air box lid on the L/H side Looking down at the top of the airbox, you need to undo the 6 Phillips screws holding the lid on, there are two here Two more here And two more which you access from above the battery. Be careful not to drop them on removal ! Once you've undone the 6 screws, and the sensor, remove the air box lid itself to reveal the filter itself ! This is what you should be left with the filter removed! Take car not to drop any bits down the intake Now repeat all