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On my course we were told that you can't use feeler gauges to measure a gap exactly, nor to set it. The idea is that ALL dimensions everywhere in engineering have a tolerance - there is no such thing as an exact dimension. Suppose our clearance is supposed to be 0.17mm - it should have a tolerance specified, such as +/- 0.02mm. So the gap is allowed to be anywhere between 0.15mm and 0.19mm. The correct check for the clearance is to confirm that a 0.15mm gauge slides freely, and a 0.19mm gauge won't enter. That is the go - no-go test Tex refers to. What you don't do is check for a "sl

I'm struggling with the concept of Honda building an engine with adjustments out of spec. I just don't see it happening. More likely (to my mind) is 'enthusiastic amateur' mechanics not understanding 'go - no go' or 'sliding fit'. 'Back in the day' I had to do all sorts of adjustments to Moto-Guzzi, Ducati, Triumph & Norton bikes on PDI. The Hondas were always perfect. Every time.

You're right, it shows how much I was paying attention, sorted now, thank you. Brigante7.

Cool - can I quote you on that for Mrs Tex? Great! I'll have the Affy Twin DCT, an R1200R, an MT10..

James - i have the AT (DCT) as well as the NC750x and although the AT is more comfy etc, I end up taking my NC to work 99% of the time as its 100 miles round trip, the miles kills the value of the bike, and I get 80mpg all day long vs 60mpg if i baby the AT. I love the fact the NC gets me to work so well at such a good price, and given ive had it for 2years now and the miles are high, the extra miles do not really harm the value. Add to that the NC is way easier to clean.... I love my AT, the look, sounds, ride, speeeeeed etc :-) and love to use it at weekends with

Anyone who says different is on thin ice..

I think I would spend a lottery win on a step back in time when I could ride what I wanted in comfort and not give it a second thought.

Are you really sure that you want your address so clearly shown on the internet???

I would need two things a lotto win and a warehouse to keep them all in😀😀

Good grief, how do you do it? Mine returns pretty well spot on 70mpg. Pretty good, but nothing like the 80+mpg others claim.

Your bike if a 700 should have had a big service at 8000 miles - I use bridgestone t30 evo very pleased with them got a few of my customers on them all seem pleased shame you are a long way from West Sussex as I could do your service for you

Yes, PR4.

I thought that Jazz had hydraulic lifters? The valve train is completely different anyway.

Even that is twice as often as the Jazz 1340cc called for.

Valves (like Baby Bear's porridge) are best when they're 'just right'. If you can't get them right (?!) then you want them a little on the loose side. I'm camping in Yorkshire (Yay!!) at the moment with only sporadic internet so I can't go into much detail. But you don't want tight valves.

My 1990 BMW GS1000 was the most unreliable bike I've owned in 'the modern era'. The next was a 2005 Guzzi Breva V1100. Both had shaft drive issues. Shaft drives have many good points but they are expensive when they go wrong. No problems with my other three shafties, of which two were Hondas. Chains have their bad points but they give excellent value for money and are commendably reliable, even when neglected, slack and badly worn. Only once have I had a chain break and that was in 1962. Modern chains are beautifully designed and made and with the right lubricant even mes