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Just to clarify any possible misunderstandings, this is the exact wording in the 700 DCT workshop manual section 12-120 and 121. (Note it says ensure the fan stops.) CLUTCH INITIALIZE LEARNING (PCM) • If the PCM and/or clutch assembly are replaced, perform this procedure. • Before starting this procedure, check the following: – PGM-FI system and DCT system have no DTC. – Engine idle speed is normal. – Transmission is in neutral and cooling fan stops. • Do not operate the throttle during clutch initialize learning 1. Warm up the engine to

Just did my 2016 (3.7K miles) yesterday, made a huge difference in the initial take up in 1st, other gear changes also seem less 'jerky'. I followed the 2016 workshop manual which is basically as above but with the throttle open. I had to get a second person to help as I couldn't hold the throttle open while doing all the other stuff at the same time! I've copied Tex's instructions and added the relevant parts: Honda DCT Reset for 2016+ NC750X/S: - Get aboard the bike and start the motor. - With the transmission key in N for neutral, switch-off the igni

Welcome. these things are best done at home ......................

Mechanically there shouldn't be any issues. Usually really high mileage bikes die due to general deterioration due to salt corrosion etc. Deauvilles will happily do 150k plus miles, I'd be surprised if the NC is much different. If you intend to run it to high miles, keep on top of the routine servicing, change fluids regularly (including coolant, fork oil and brake fluid), and keep it protected with suitable products like ACF50 etc. Fork gaiters would be a worthwhile addition, plus a shock sock is essential. Service the brake calipers regularly to avoid corrosion, red rubber grease r

I have no experience of owning a high mileage NC but I can see no probs with it doing in excess of 100k miles (at least) if it's well looked after. Its a Honda after all.

I fully recommend doing this if you think the clutch is being snatchy. Big difference when I did it on mine. I think mine hadn't been done since new (initialised at 8k miles).

Just to add a little background behind cam profile design for understanding. Taken fro Google images The lift (red), velocity (green) and acceleration (blue) curves look typically like this. The values are given relative to engine speed in some way, depending on units used, so lift is inches (or mm), vely is in/deg, and accel is in/deg^2. In metric you'll see units like mm/rad (same basic idea as in/deg). The opening and closing have "ramps" which are there to take up the clearance and load the system on opening, and to allow the elastic compression/deflection to unl