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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/07/17 in all areas

  1. Good man! Every time I fit tyres I give them a pat and say "Right boys - you're here for a good time, not a long time!"
    2 points
  2. The brake fluid will appear slightly low because the pads are wearing and the pistons are pushed further out lowering the fluid level. If you top it up when it's like that, when you come to fit new pads and push the pistons back in the fluid will spill over the top.
    1 point
  3. Might be tread block deformation, especially if you use the brakes on turn in to corners and load up the front tyre. I get the same wear pattern, it's just down to the way I ride which is not text book I'm sure. After many years I just accept it's me and not the tyres.
    1 point
  4. i'm getting 12k out of rear PR4 and only a little more out of the front (front always seems to not wear so good - still trying to work out why). - If anyone knows why the leading 1/4 of every tread block on both sides of the front wheel wear's down to leave the both sides of the tyre with a wavy surface. Both sides, exactly the same so not wheel alignment. wear is only on the front 1/4 of every leading edge of the ttyre block, and nothing in the center so don't think its the rebound on the front shock... but puzzled - dealer no idea either (this is the second front tyre it had happened on, how
    1 point
  5. You won't get that from the OE tyres (unless you ride like a nun with a guiltily conscience) but it's easily achieved with a good replacement. PR3 or 4 suit the model very well and will last 10k miles (estimated from experience on other much more powerful bikes). Good luck.
    1 point
  6. I believe Honda's thinking is if it has a mainstand as STD then that's when chain tension should be done if it only has a side stand as STD then you do the chain tension using that
    1 point
  7. It would difficult to say whether 3000 is normal as it depends so many variables.. Tpe of tyre how the bike is used for example any tyre will square off much faster if a lot of motorway is used. There is also how the rider rides fast acceleration and heavy breaking will wear a tyre much faster. Another factor is if the rider checks and adjusts the pressures regulary or not. My comment reference not comparing it with car tyres comes from comments from friends who drive but do not ride
    1 point
  8. I've checked and I have Bridgestone Battlewings, both front and back. Most of the front tyre looks fine but there is one slightly deformed patch. The back looks perfectly ok. After all, it's not as if I thrash the bike - quite the contrary.
    1 point
  9. I have the original Dunlop and at 6500 miles, front tire is approaching the limit, 1.5mm mark, but the back is still far, around 3.5mm compare with the 2mm limit. Just ride normaly and at every 500 miles measure them and in this way you will figure it out how much will last
    1 point
  10. My OEM Z8 tyres lasted 15,413 mi because of the bad Greek asphalt, which has the grip of an oil spil... The wear was still minimal but the grip was awful (from day 0) and they were squared... I guess they could give 10.000 mi more but full of compromises... I replaced them with Bridgestone S21 (sport) for more grip and I expect the same mileage as a touring tyre on Britain...
    1 point
  11. The road surfaces will have a marked influence on wear rates too, you often find mountain roads can be a lot more abrasive than lowland ones. Like Simon I binned the original Metz Z8 tyres at around 5k miles because I didn't like how the front was wearing (triangular) and it spoilt the ride. The first PR4 rear was changed at around 8k miles because I was about to go on a long tour and didn't want a worn out tyre at the end, it would have been good for 10k miles quite comfortably. The front was changed at about 13k, again tread left but the feel had gone off. The second
    1 point
  12. Stephen, Rocker doesn't drive a car and I don't imagine he knows what tyre wear would be like on one, other than 'much less than a bike'. I replaced the standard (Bridgestone) tyres at 4,000 miles. The front had worn into a weird 'triangular' shape and was affecting the steering (and my enjoyment of the bike). I normally change tyres (always as a pair - never individually) around 5,000 miles because they will be worn enough to have lost their 'edge'. Motorcycle tyres work a lot harder than car tyres and the effects of wear are far more pronounced. Some folks can shrug
    1 point
  13. Stephen, if the front tyre is a Dunlop Trailmax then you've done very well (mine lasted just over 2,000 miles). In contrast, my last couple of pairs of Michelins (PR4) have both survived 10,000 miles.
    1 point
  14. I have 4,400km on my NC and the front tyre is looking a bit dodgy. I'm getting a TomTom power supply and USB port installed Tuesday so I'll ask the dealer what he thinks. Certainly, under 5k doesn't seem like a lot if you compare to how long car tyres last, but I have no reference for motorbikes.
    1 point
  15. Some UK models were fitted with Dunlop (I think) tyres that wore out extremely quickly. Honda UK took the unprecedented step of replacing them under warranty. First (and only) time I heard of that happening. Apart from those ones, tyre life doesn't seem to be a concern. Members generally report good life from their tyres on the NC range. The Michelin PR3 or 4 seems to be most popular replacement tyre., What have you got on there currently?
    1 point
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