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OEM Metzlers about 8000 from the front and 6000 from the rear, Michelin PR3s about 12,000 from the front and 10,000 from the rear. Significantly improved grip in the wet and more secure feeling in all conditions from the PR3s. On a separate note, currently running Bridgestone 023s on my 1992 Daytona 1000 and they feel as good as the Michelins did, in all conditions, on my NC. They are new, so no mileage data yet.

Hi Mike, I can stick it in a jiffy bag and send it to you, please PM me your postal address. I'm not looking for anything for it, but was thinking - once you receive it and prove that it works ok, why don't you make a donation to the Just Giving page for Dentonlad. The money will then go to a good cause.

Oops! my mistake, I really should proofread before posting. I did mean Michelin PR's. Andy.

It's normal for the fluid to go down as the brake pads wear... If fluid level is between high & low indicators it's ok. Never top up, because it will overflow when you will install the new pads... See the owner's manual about the wear indicators on OEM (Nissin) brake pads, but I guess break pads from other manufacturers doesn't have them. EBC's break pads doesn't have them. Ferodo's too...

One day I must try these Pirelli things as I am destroying tyres at around 5000 miles a set. Mind you, I never take them below 2mm and change both at the same time as I do not like putting a new rear tyre with a worn front one even though I could probably get another 1000 miles out of the fronts. I am currently on my 3rd set of Bridgestone T30 Evos, great grip and feel wet or dry and they give me great confidence on all road surfaces so I am loath to change to something unknown to me, perhaps the next time I will go with Conti Road Attack 2's as I have used them on 3 previous bikes and really

Just checked out, and after 5000 miles on Bridgestone Battlax 021, I have 1.5 mm left at front and approx 3 mm at rear tyre left. Mixed city/motorway/country roads.

Might be tread block deformation, especially if you use the brakes on turn in to corners and load up the front tyre. I get the same wear pattern, it's just down to the way I ride which is not text book I'm sure. After many years I just accept it's me and not the tyres.

Good man! Every time I fit tyres I give them a pat and say "Right boys - you're here for a good time, not a long time!"

You won't get that from the OE tyres (unless you ride like a nun with a guiltily conscience) but it's easily achieved with a good replacement. PR3 or 4 suit the model very well and will last 10k miles (estimated from experience on other much more powerful bikes). Good luck.

Stephen, Rocker doesn't drive a car and I don't imagine he knows what tyre wear would be like on one, other than 'much less than a bike'. I replaced the standard (Bridgestone) tyres at 4,000 miles. The front had worn into a weird 'triangular' shape and was affecting the steering (and my enjoyment of the bike). I normally change tyres (always as a pair - never individually) around 5,000 miles because they will be worn enough to have lost their 'edge'. Motorcycle tyres work a lot harder than car tyres and the effects of wear are far more pronounced. Some folks can shrug

Stephen, if the front tyre is a Dunlop Trailmax then you've done very well (mine lasted just over 2,000 miles). In contrast, my last couple of pairs of Michelins (PR4) have both survived 10,000 miles.

When I had my NC700X I had it lowered. To avoid cutting the original sidestand I bought a second hand sidestand for a NC700S and the switch came with it. The second hand one wasn't used since the original worked fine. I've checked in the garage and it is still there so you can have it if you want it. I'm assuming it works ok.

You'll find the switch and connector is common with many other Honda models, the only thing which differs is the wire attached, the length and sometimes clips etc which are attached to it. It's very probable another model switch will do, but obviously the wire needs to be long enough (easy to lose some excess length if too long, can't stretch it if too short unless you cut/join the wire from the original switch and heatshrink the joints, but messy solution).