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This really isn't the place for nasty remarks, so someone needs to think before they post in future! We all know politics is a dirty word on here, so cut it out or I'll close the thread.

Honda CB125 Twin, Honda CD200 Benley, Honda VFR750, Honda SH125, Honda CBF1000FA ,Honda NC750D Integra all great bikes owned by me and no issues between them. For what it's worth with 4 wheels Honda Civic, Honda CRV and Honda Civic EX just as good as all my bikes.

My brother gave me the advice, buy any bike you want so long as it is Japanese. I am very happy with my Triumph and the quality seems very good so far as I can tell but you don,t really know how good a bike is going to be till you've done 20,00 miles plus. On that basis I can vouch for the Suzuki V Strom 650, the Honda VFR800 and The Honda Superdream 250. Not done enough miles on anything else that was as reliable - and don't get me started on BMW!

There were some scare stories a while back about the "cheap" petrol in cars and what was added to make it so (and possible damage to engine/parts/valves etc), but TBH, as a new rider, there seem to be *so many* options for stuff like chain oil/grease/wet/dry, tyres, cleaning fluids etc - its pretty confusing when you have little reference to base a choice on. Thank goodness for you lot . I try to mentally count up the "yeah/no" against products and follow that. So please continue to let loose :-)

There are two things I'm 'fussy' about. Tyres and oil. Saving a few £££s ( or €€€s) never even enters my head. Three if you include a preference for NGK plugs. I'm not anal about fuel, for example, and will run my vehicles on the cheapest slop a local supermarket can provide. I don't scour the shelves looking for a favourite brand of polish (my dad would only use Simonize claiming it was the best he'd tried). Detractors would, doubtless, point to me and say "You need to keep a more open mind". I rather prefer to just consider myself 'discerning'

In basic terms it's the DCT control system learning where the clutches just take up the drive. This allows the clutch slip/drive control to then work as intended. It's there principally for the initial build with new clutch packs, or if the ECU is changed and needs to learn for the first time, but I find it does help after you've done an oil change for example or near the end of the service interval where things have gradually changed. I can't see any downsides to doing it whenever you feel the clutch take up isn't quite as smooth as you'd expect. First time I tried it, the progres

I used to do it whenever my bike felt Grobelaar (that will only mean something to members on here who have read the The Meaning of Liff ) If your dct bike feels rough and untidy and jumpy when tootling at low speed in traffic, it seems to help if you do the DCT initialisation. Embee will explain what it does. It's only REQUIRED to be done after the service people have done various bits of work to your engine, so it's only documented in the workshop manual, not the user manual Mike

I once had a Ford dealer try to suggest that I needed new pads and discs on the front of my Mondeo as the pads were worn and the discs were 'excessively corroded,' at £330+ for the pads and discs(fitted) I declined. 2 MOTs and services later I sold the car having changed the front pads once and never touched the discs as they were still legal. Oddly they were an advisory on the first MOT but not the second despite both being done at the same garage and covering 12,000ish miles in between!