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Showing content with the highest reputation on 18/07/17 in all areas

  1. I believe it is this, but may be wrong. It's one of those things that if it works it might be helpful, if it doesn't there's no harm, so on balance it's worth a try.
    2 points
  2. Yeah, that's the one I used last year.
    1 point
  3. An ECU is just running a control loop no matter how complex. Start at setting A. If B increases reduce by C, if B decreases increase by C. Repeat. When B is the same number three times in a row store the current value of C+A as the new A. Brake ECU's remember if the vehicle was laden or unladen so long as the ignition is on. It means each application after the third is smoother. The so called reset just puts any stored settings back to what they were out of the factory. Mostly such procedures just wipe the error memory. Do not get drawn in by thinking something with as much intel
    1 point
  4. If they are the traditional pushrod type hydraulic "lifters", it's worth taking them out sometime (if that's practical due to the way it's assembled) and depressing the check valve with a thin piece of wire down the hole, and pumping them a few times to flush the working chamber. It can be a little bit of an art to do this, you need to hold the valve depressed while pushing the plunger up/down. They're usually a ball valve, sometimes a flat disc valve, and it's quite possible to get debris under the seat. Ideally this is done immersed in something like white spirit so it flushes the oil out ef
    1 point
  5. Now this is weird. I've got the official 2016 shop manual in front of me and I cannot find any mention of an ECU reset procedure. Rick - are you referring to the ECU recalibrate procedure, where you start the engine from cold and let it run until the fan kicks in? If so, I can't find any mention of it. If you are referring to the method for wiping out stored fault codes, I can let you know how to do that. Folks: does anyone know where the procedure is described for the earlier models? Can you let me know the manual section? If so, I might guide me to the right spot in the 201
    1 point
  6. Fortunately one of my two bikes has hydraulic tappets.
    1 point
  7. It's time to change coolant in my NC, as motorbike is nearly 3 years old now. Is this one ok?
    1 point
  8. Hi Iain That is very generous of you. I certainly will make a donation. I will pm you. Thanks Mike
    1 point
  9. Hi Mike, I can stick it in a jiffy bag and send it to you, please PM me your postal address. I'm not looking for anything for it, but was thinking - once you receive it and prove that it works ok, why don't you make a donation to the Just Giving page for Dentonlad. The money will then go to a good cause.
    1 point
  10. What a very nice offer....I do love this site and it's followers... Lyn.
    1 point
  11. When I had my NC700X I had it lowered. To avoid cutting the original sidestand I bought a second hand sidestand for a NC700S and the switch came with it. The second hand one wasn't used since the original worked fine. I've checked in the garage and it is still there so you can have it if you want it. I'm assuming it works ok.
    1 point
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