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If it is turning over strongly, then it can only be one of three things - fuel supply, air supply, or correctly timed and sufficiently strong sparks from the ignition system. I guess it could be a temperature sensor as you have already surmised, as if it doesn't know whether the engine is hot or cold this might making starting harder. It won't necessarily need to set a higher tickover and richer mixture when trying to start from cold in the summer as it shouldn't need much help when it is warm outside. I know my NC had very apparent higher tickover when cold, to the extent that

First question, do you hear the fuel pump run when you turn the ignition on? Does the HISS light come on for a few seconds then go out when you turn on the ignition? When it does start, does it run in a strong/stable manner or is it coughing/stumbling etc? Is your fuel economy OK?

I'm just thinking of the issue I had. I apologise for keeping referring to it, but it's such a basic thing that it's worth checking out. It's cropped up again in this thread as a possible reason for random cutting out of engine http://www.nc700.co.uk/index.php?/topic/15979-dct-ignition-cut-out/ On mine the connector for the kill/start switch which is located about a foot or so away from the switch block (trace the wiring harness to find it) had a couple of tarnished pins which essentially stopped the power getting to the switch. As far as the bike ECU was concerned the kill switch

My 700x sometimes does something similar let us know how it goes could be looking at the same problem by the way mine has done 11000 m

I think I know why messing with the sidestand eventually got it into neutral. I've discovered that if I stop in gear, and switch the engine off with the kill switch or the ignition switch, it stays in gear until I next start it, when it snicks into neutral. If I stop in gear and switch off the engine by operating the sidestand, it snicks into neutral before the engine stops. Therefore repeatedly actuating the sidestand will repeatedly actuate the "select neutral" function. The gearbox in the DCT is much like any other bike gearbox, in that the

Similar issue on my AT and I found that by putting the bike on the centre stand and rolling the rear wheel backwards with the ignition on it found neutral after being stuck in second. I agree that it is a result of the gears being in slightly the wrong position when the engine stopped.

Have a check through my post about my Integra failing to start, here (apologies about photophucket pulling the picture links, bless them) Someone else had the same issue, again solved by cleaning the connector for the right side switch gear kill/start wiring. Worth a try. If the feed to the kill switch gets interrupted for any reason it will shut off the fuel relay so total engine cut. If stationary with the engine not running the gear selector will often (usually?) not be able to go through the sequence of gears because the dogs don't line up to allow the gears to slide, thi

Air filter on the new X-ADV to remove. Pop two of those push pin doda's and two of those with the pin head you pull out. Put finger tips under black cover and heave up. Then undo the cover lid screws. Simples

Know rather than guess. In 2007 I bought a new Hornet. It made a strange tapping noise when accelerating. A bit like when you flick a ruler on your school bench. Took it to two Honda dealers to trace fault. They both tried but failed to do so. I rang Honda customer services who to be honest were no help. They assured me the bike was safe even though nobody had any idea what was wrong. I am no shrinking violet and made it very clear this was not acceptable. They just kept telling to let the supplying dealer try again. It was seriously infuriating.. I told my wife the story. She rang Honda and