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Dct check is easy , they did it the other way on me and no handbrake symbol on the dash when brake activated . So they must different. Check the panel for the symbol and I was referring to gearbox sprocket , I should have been clearer .

Yep - just as Tex says! The good thing with the NC fronts is that the outer seal diameter is greater than the bearing, so you can use the old bearing to drift the new one in, without it becoming stuck.

Two possibles spring to mind. If someone fitted a 16T gearbox sprocket from a 700 on your 750, which should have a 17T, then the gearbox will be running 17/16 times as fast as it should. The speedo is taken off the gearbox shaft so will show a higher value than the bike is actually doing. The other one is that if yours has had the instrument pack recall change done and a DCT item is fitted instead of a manual (if this will actually work, I have no idea, just thinking aloud), then it would be a similar issue with the speedo calibrated for a 17/39 ratio and getting a 17/43, i.e. gettin

Youtube is definitely your friend, plenty of how-to vids on changing wheel bearings. Getting the old ones out isn't usually difficult, add some sort of lube (penetrating oil, or at a push WD40 though it isn't the best thing) round the bearing where it fits in the hub. Useful if you heat the hub with a hairdryer or hot air gun, avoid using anything with a flame though. The dust seals usually prise out easily with no damage if you're careful and will refit with finger pressure usually. The bearings usually go in with one down to the stop, and the other just until it traps