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I would also recommend using a grinder/dremel to take the rivet head off as I once broke the pin on my mates Motion-pro chain tool trying to just push the rivet out. Not being able to find a replacement pin in the UK I contacted the US headquarters and they sent me one for free. Andy.

Yeah, a Dremmel is fine. I personally prefer the screw type of chain breaker to the, more modern, 'anvil' type. I just can't get the hang of those! Old dog/new tricks I suppose..

I've used a dremel type thing before, you only need to "thin" a head for the tool to get an easier life. I think my rivet tool is motion-pro. From M&P many years ago. Works fine for the once a year sort of stuff, you only need better in a commercial workshop IMHO. Andy

Similar process to bicycle chain. This is by far the best explanation of fitting a new chain ( and sprockets) I borrowed an angle grinder from the father in law for the grinding process. The sealey chain breaker Delboy uses is the one I have, bought from Demon tweaks for £30 A few forum members use endless chains which I would have used for my last chain replacement but an open chain was sent instead, couldn't be bothered with the hassle of returning it so riveted the open one on.

Removing the rear slip on can is only needed, and having done this a few times I have found no issue with it re sealing. There is no gasket as such just a simple clamp. From memory the reason to remove it, is to get better access to the lower bolt - saying that however I took my swingarm off about 3 months ago to paint and replace the endless chain and I think I had trouble removing the rear can is time and found a way around the bolt access using some of my tools - have a feeling I may have used a through socket (e.g. Vortex) type that allows a super low profile. If I was home I would pop ou