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Good find Tex. Hopefully that means it just needs a new flasher relay, so sorry if I have caused the OP any worries about needing a new instrument panel. I know with one of my bikes I was researching replacing the indicator bulbs with LEDs but didn't want to use the messy and power wasting expedient of fitting resistors in parallel with the LEDs to take the same power and keep the flasher circuitry happy. Instead I wanted to fit an LED compatible flasher relay until I found that there was no separate relay on the bike - maybe it was the Versys.

No, haven't replaced mine ............. yet. They've been in/out quite a few times. The patchlok on them still makes them slightly stiff to turn, so they won't fall out even if they lose any torque, which they never do if tightened correctly and everything is clean when assembled. As Steve says, a drop of low/mid strength Loctite etc will do the job if you feel happier. Just a drop will do, it's really to stop them dropping out if they are left loose, they won't loosen on their own if tightened correctly. (My opinion, your decision ultimately). They are not torqued to yi

No, I never have. I do Loctite them in, though (medium strength).

I keep oil, filters, spark plugs, filters liquids etc as per the service manual Through the winter I take the callipers off every month and clean the pistons and make sure they're not sticking. Having had a throttle cable snap I check the cable ends and set tension. Tyres and pressures get checked at least weekly. I also wash the bike every week through the winter - which makes you see if anythings lose or broken. Late autumn I take the swing arm off and shock linkage, clean and repack the bearings with grease. Also do the same with wheel bearings. I s

Landin mite innit. Hours count rather than miles. A company that big will have had an oil analysis done, the costs are too great not to. The nationwide truck fleets do the same. It will cost a truck manufacturer hundreds of thousands in sales if their trial vehicle comes back with worn out oil and the competitors lasts another week. The fleets drive intervals longer while the bike manufacturers selling to Joe Public would cheerfully have them shorter. The Enfield is a laugh. The dealer says 2500 miles, the handbook 2500 km, the old boys at the REOC who are addicted to C

Addison Lee, on their website, mention that their fleet cars are serviced every 6,000 miles, rather than the manufacturers' recommended 12,000 miles. This may be partly for marketing purposes and partly to boost residual sale prices. However, the additional cost would be considerable and I therefore suspect their thinking must be, in part at least, down to the fact that long service intervals may not be good for a vehicle.

The point about wear being imposed physically every time you change the oil is a good one. Plus every time anyone 'tinkers' there is the danger of damaging or forgetting to tighten, over-tighten, strip threads, round off heads etc regardless how efficient you are, the odds go up. So it's best to leave everything alone until it is necessary to do something, then do just what is needed. This not only reduces risk, wear and tear but also saves a lot of money. Preventative maintenance when you first get a bike/car pays off big time. The best maintenance tool is your eyes. Check over things re

Aren't the cables now nylon lined teflon coated? Adding oil to dirt creates grinding paste. This lubed better than fresh air in the olden days when the cables were steel on steel or steel on brass, but most manufacturers I thought had moved on. Americans can get their oil analysed much more easily than we can, so there is data for septics using V-Stroms. Every bike from a commuter in California to a guy doing repeated coast to coast runs with the IBA mentalists was having the oil changed too soon. Suzuki want to sell oil. Every oil change you risk drain plug threads and run for 30

Agree with the above, time or mileage dependant. Also the spark plugs are precious metal types and are good for at least 30k miles, probably more like 50k miles is a very realistic life.

Exactly, keep it at 8000 otherwise you are just wasting your money and not doing anything at all for the bike. Really there is only oil and filters that need doing to a mileage, everything else is done as needed or in the case of brake fluid and coolant every two or three years at a convenient time. Five years for red antifreeze when it could be advantageous to replace the thermostat too all regardless of mileage as these are time or seasonal related items. Spark plugs are good for 18,000 miles and the air filter can be anything from a year to five years before needing changing as they are env