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Just serviced another NC, with 2000 miles on the clock 15 plate (not been used for a while ) and guess what NO grease on suspension links so repacked and torqued up good to go for a while now

In my quest to improve front suspension I changed the oil 5 times and seals (incl bushes) 3 times since March. Also taken the caps off at least 2 dozen times in order to make emulator adjustments. Every time the oil gets greyish after about 10 days. I suspect K-tech springs rubbibg against stanchion tubes or grey teflon the bushes are lined with? Fork lowers are drained and cleaned every time and there is no chance of water getting in. Bizarre. BTW, if you need seals/bushes replaced, I can do it within an hour yes, practice makes perfect

Yeah, a Dremmel is fine. I personally prefer the screw type of chain breaker to the, more modern, 'anvil' type. I just can't get the hang of those! Old dog/new tricks I suppose..

Youtube is definitely your friend, plenty of how-to vids on changing wheel bearings. Getting the old ones out isn't usually difficult, add some sort of lube (penetrating oil, or at a push WD40 though it isn't the best thing) round the bearing where it fits in the hub. Useful if you heat the hub with a hairdryer or hot air gun, avoid using anything with a flame though. The dust seals usually prise out easily with no damage if you're careful and will refit with finger pressure usually. The bearings usually go in with one down to the stop, and the other just until it traps