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Showing content with the highest reputation on 19/08/17 in all areas

  1. Not a job I have done very often, as mentioned in other discussions I like to keep my fork legs very clean to prevent seal problems, and have had several bikes do over 50,000 miles without leaking. But if I am servicing the forks then I remove the legs and give the whole things a good clean, how often do you see a bike with rusty fork legs above the bottom yolk and you can be sure the legs are rusty under the triple clamps. Bite the bullet, pull it to bits and why not Greece the head races as they probably need it.
    2 points
  2. Sprocket misalignment will wear out the chain prematurely. Don't dumb down its importance. I wouldn't be happy with that difference either, but I suppose I am a perfectionist ..
    1 point
  3. I find sixth a bit high a gear for 50 or less. It does sound rougher, its sweeter in 5th at 50. Sixth is fine at motorway speeds tough.
    1 point
  4. Or strung from the ceiling. Have done that before, when changing the whole front end on SWMBO's Hornet
    1 point
  5. Yep however, now that you mentioned it, I wonder if there is a way of replacing the seals/bushes with the forks in situ?
    1 point
  6. Does that include taking the forks out? Andy.
    1 point
  7. In my quest to improve front suspension I changed the oil 5 times and seals (incl bushes) 3 times since March. Also taken the caps off at least 2 dozen times in order to make emulator adjustments. Every time the oil gets greyish after about 10 days. I suspect K-tech springs rubbibg against stanchion tubes or grey teflon the bushes are lined with? Fork lowers are drained and cleaned every time and there is no chance of water getting in. Bizarre. BTW, if you need seals/bushes replaced, I can do it within an hour yes, practice makes perfect
    1 point
  8. Some would call it character building, others plain stupidity. With hindsight I would tend towards the latter! Andy
    1 point
  9. But don't do that if you have a DCT! At least, not a 2016-on model (I don't know about the earlier ones). The manual is clear: 10W-30. The DCT is designed to "expect" that oil viscosity - 10W-40 is thicker than the DCT is expecting, so should/might cause jerky clutch engagement. By the way, in my view there's no way this could be a chain tension issue. Not when the symptoms are so severe that you actually lost traction due to the jerky gearchange.
    1 point
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