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Yep, at 50,000 Mille's. Only needed to adjust the 2 right hand inlets that were slightly loose at .22 All exhausts still at factory .28 and the other 2 inlets still at .17. Pretty good going I'd say. Plugs were still in decent shape, but changed obviously. 2 hr job all in. Cheers, Mike.

I am now a stockist for liqui moly oil i keep 10w 40 semi and 10w 30 semi - + a few odd grades / also a stockist for Bike seal puncture preventative

Thanks for your assistance, I have checked those and all ok, although the bike has only done 5000 kms so I did not expect it to be anything relating to age or mileage. I have now checked the wheel alignment by the string method and it is out by approx 4 mm so waiting until I have purchased a paddock stand and will check again and adjust if necessary.

As Stelios says. Copper grease is usually mineral oil based so may not be compatible with some rubber used in brake and cooling systems. Silicone grease is fine with most common rubber types, NBR, EPDM etc. If the manual recommends a silicone grease it's wise to stick to that unless you know the materials.

Sometimes , the manufacturers used to insist that one used their tyres as a matched pair since the tread pattern on the front was"designed " to help the rear tyre in some way ( such as clearing rain away). At that time, my funding decided which tyres went onto my bike.To be honest, I never ever have noticed any difference at all in tyres in dry weather. Whether using the cast iron korean tyres which came as standard with Hyosungs or the finest stickyness from pirmitchlop etc. ... I have never been fast enough. In the wet however, I have noticed a marked difference. I currently use a Maxxi