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Showing content with the highest reputation on 22/04/24 in all areas

  1. No one can know until it is either taken apart or fails completely. They certainly believe it's worth a look and that they can probably claim it back from Honda or they wouldn't offer. How can it turn out? 1. They fix it. 2. The new one is exactly the same, works but is a bit noisy. Run if for a year then sell it back to the same dealer. They lose all claims that there is any reason to reduce the value. 3. They stuff up the repair, it fails a week later. Their fault, they fix it or replace it. I don't trust dealers mechanics to put air in tyres pro
    6 points
  2. Gentlemen i think that i will follow the recommendation of the dealer although i am not convised of the outcome and that the most of you suggest and it seems logical to do. I bought this bike new for not to have any kind of trouble and you understand that this was kind of dissapointment for me. Except this the bike runs great and it suits my needs perfectly for a daily commuter and a Sunday ride at the beach with my wife, you know Greece in summer time has great places to go and get wet !! So today a big YES i would have bought it again if i had to make a choice for a new bike. As said above t
    5 points
  3. Plus one to that, and to @Andy m 's contribution. It looks to me to be a win/win for you if you take their advice on the fix. If you don't, it might not be so good later.
    3 points
  4. You can get a “Streetbox” kit, with a remote preload adjuster for an early NC for just over £800 iirc. Obviously it’s less without the remote adjuster. They’re built to order I believe, so you might have a few weeks wait for delivery. There’s a very good review / thread on here from Viator, who fitted the same to his 2021 NC? Well worth a read if you’re thinking about it. On this thread there’s a link to a YouTube review from Chris Moss who recommended the upgrade.
    2 points
  5. If it was my bike I would let them get on with it. If they mess it up they will need to re do it at their cost, and deciding not to do it means they may use that against you later (as commented above) I remember both of my NCs were not quiet, but I ride a Himalayan now so it's all relative!
    2 points
  6. Mine is a manual and sounds exactly the same pulling the clutch in quietens it a little but you don't have that option on the Dct. I very wise and experienced biker/ mechanic ( who very sadly is no longer with us) said the NC sounds like two skeletons making love in a biscuit tin. I find it quite embarrassing when I'm around other bikes and have to start it up because of the rattling engine but Hey! That's the NC.
    2 points
  7. If you were to postpone and something happened to the bike mechanically it could then get difficult for you perhaps, as you'd refused to have the recommended work carried out. If you have some confidence in the dealers mechanics then it seems sensible to let them do the work, provided it has no cost to you. Be sure to feedback to them immediately if, after the work, the bike is no better.
    2 points
  8. Almost immediately the Rebound was not clicking on the shock. Hyperpro's advice was to open the Rebound all the way, ride (carefully) for two miles, then adjust. This worked each time, but only for one adjustment. In the end I was just opening it fully then bouncing the rear up and down to get it to click and only on the increase adjustment. Over about four months the ride began to feel progressively harsh till it was like the suspension had been replaced with a bag of wet sand. The ride has become really harsh. High speed (c.60-70mph)bumps feel like you're losing vertebrae (which
    1 point
  9. 1 point
  10. As a teenager I was finishing a painstaking re-assembly of a Villiers 2T two-stroke twin and was about to mount the cylinders when I dropped a circlip into the crankcase. Horror! Take it all to bits again! Crikey! (or similar) My dad said “ the crank cheeks in a two stroke have to be a close fit in the crankcase to force the necessary gas flow. Turn the engine by hand until the crank cheek appears in the cylinder hole beside the conrod, and put a glob of stiff grease on the cheek. Then slowly turn the engine 360 deg until the crank cheek reappears, the circlip will be stuck in the grease
    1 point
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