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Sorry if its duplicated. Chain advise


SteveM

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I need to change my chain and sprockets on my NC 700 X. What chain and sprockets would you recommend? I would like to keep the Gold colour. Any advise would be appreciated. Don't want a garage to fit it after my last problem. Need to find a friend to help me change too

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embee

From personal experience I'd recommend the DID VX2 or the ZVM-X chains, available in either black or gold/black (GB). As for sprockets, JT are pretty well respected and reasonable price.

 

Make doubly sure you get the correct sizes and number of teeth, and chain length. Note that some spares supplier listings are not correct, for example I just looked at the DID site and they list the NC as using a 525 chain, which is incorrect, they all use 520 size.

DCT and manual sprockets are different size, the 700 has a 16T gearbox and the 750 has 17T, for example, and chains are 112 or 114 links. This site https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/pieces-honda-detail-61063-61063-NC700XAC-2012-F_26-NC+700+X+ABS.html will let you see the correct spec for your bike, (e.g. 520, 16 & 43T), check for your particular model.

Useful suppliers are http://www.wemoto.com/http://www.busters-accessories.co.uk/en/shop/ , http://www.mandp.co.uk/ , https://www.intobikes.co.uk/ and many more. It's worth comparing the website prices and their shops on the auction site, sometimes there are better prices on one or the other.

 

If your bike has a centre stand it might be worth considering getting an endless chain (i.e. factory riveted) and dropping the swingarm out to fit it. This is not as big a job as you might imagine, it's pretty straightforward. If you don't have a centre stand it's much more difficult. Otherwise you need to rivet the new one in-situ with the appropriate tool.

Unlike some bikes, the NC uses a relatively small bolt to retain the gearbox sprocket which is not difficult to undo (loosen it before removing the chain!)

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shiggsy

The DID site lists a 525 chain for the NC700X Japanese Edition, they used to list the non-Japanese edition as 520. For some reason the Japanese edition gets the next size up and for some reason they no longer show the non-Japanese edition spec.

Edited by shiggsy
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Guest Mac750
33 minutes ago, embee said:

From personal experience I'd recommend the DID VX2 or the ZVM-X chains, available in either black or gold/black (GB). As for sprockets, JT are pretty well respected and reasonable price.

 

Make doubly sure you get the correct sizes and number of teeth, and chain length. Note that some spares supplier listings are not correct, for example I just looked at the DID site and they list the NC as using a 525 chain, which is incorrect, they all use 520 size.

DCT and manual sprockets are different size, the 700 has a 16T gearbox and the 750 has 17T, for example, and chains are 112 or 114 links. This site https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/pieces-honda-detail-61063-61063-NC700XAC-2012-F_26-NC+700+X+ABS.html will let you see the correct spec for your bike, (e.g. 520, 16 & 43T), check for your particular model.

Useful suppliers are http://www.wemoto.com/http://www.busters-accessories.co.uk/en/shop/ , http://www.mandp.co.uk/ , https://www.intobikes.co.uk/ and many more. It's worth comparing the website prices and their shops on the auction site, sometimes there are better prices on one or the other.

 

If your bike has a centre stand it might be worth considering getting an endless chain (i.e. factory riveted) and dropping the swingarm out to fit it. This is not as big a job as you might imagine, it's pretty straightforward. If you don't have a centre stand it's much more difficult. Otherwise you need to rivet the new one in-situ with the appropriate tool.

Unlike some bikes, the NC uses a relatively small bolt to retain the gearbox sprocket which is not difficult to undo (loosen it before removing the chain!)

Just thinking aloud, the power made by the NC750 is about the same made by Brit bikes like Norton's and Triumphs and even the odd Enduro bike . All of these had the old "Split Link" heavy duty chain which was handy as you could take em off and "boil them" in Linklife or something like it. You don't need to do all that Linklife malarkey now as chain lube has moved on a bit, but would a split link chain not work for 50+ HP.  Honda .

I wouldn't fit one on a 125 HP missile but dunno, it would save a lot of faffing about and could be fitted in minuets. 

Yes ? no ? Dunno ?. 

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This bike has a split link in the chain. Trouble free. :)

IMG_0136.JPG

Edited by Tex
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Spindizzy

My Er5 always had a split link chain. Never gave any trouble and the power is comparable.

 

Personally on my NC would fit an endless, mostly because I am ok doing the change and want to lube the suspension at the same time

 

 

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embee

I'm more than happy for others to recommend a split/clip link. ;)

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kayz1

Get the kit and we will do it next weekend Steve, just pop down...:muttley:

can do endless if you want, that will give us chance to lube the rear suspender links....

Lyn.

 

Edit: make sure you get the correct kit for the bike DCT and manual are a bit different.

Edited by kayz1
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trisaki

Is your bike a manual or dct  / the manual uses 16t front  and 43 t rear -dct uses same fr but a 39t rear  - chain lenghths  are either 112 or 114 ? 520 chain on both personal opinion you could use either a spring link making sure closed end of link when looking at it ,is highest part  of the link ! Make sense when viewing  /or rivet link 

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Grumpy old man
10 hours ago, trisaki said:

Is your bike a manual or dct  / the manual uses 16t front  and 43 t rear -dct uses same fr but a 39t rear  - chain lenghths  are either 112 or 114 ? 520 chain on both personal opinion you could use either a spring link making sure closed end of link when looking at it ,is highest part  of the link ! Make sense when viewing  /or rivet link 

Hi

Does the 750 differ from the 700 on front sprocket size?

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trisaki
1 hour ago, Grumpy old man said:

Hi

Does the 750 differ from the 700 on front sprocket size?

Yes 750 has a 17t - 700 has a 16t 

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12 hours ago, trisaki said:

Is your bike a manual or dct  / the manual uses 16t front  and 43 t rear -dct uses same fr but a 39t rear  - chain lenghths  are either 112 or 114 ? 520 chain on both personal opinion you could use either a spring link making sure closed end of link when looking at it ,is highest part  of the link ! Make sense when viewing  /or rivet link 

mines a dct

 

so a kit with 16t and  a 39t rear. 520. Going to order one off that site when i get a chance today. 

 

Lyn thanks for the offer. Could we do the sat after as our lass is on her hen do. 

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I'm getting confused but that auction site and wemoto. Could some please put a link to what I need to purchase. I would like a gold one too :ahappy:

 

Many thanks guys.

 

P.S Lyn could I have this posted to yours for fitting on the 19th august :angel:

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Defender
21 hours ago, kayz1 said:

Get the kit and we will do it next weekend Steve, just pop down...:muttley:

can do endless if you want, that will give us chance to lube the rear suspender links....

Lyn.

 

Edit: make sure you get the correct kit for the bike DCT and manual are a bit different.

Yes, even some kits list as fitting for the 700 DCT aren't as they have the wrong rear sprocket, not the 39 tooth needed!

So ask the question before buying,I was told that the '700DCT doesn't appear on some suppliers listings including JT.

The Integra (NC700D) is identical in this respect, same sprockets and chain length/links.

 

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kayz1

Yes Steve post away mate.

Lyn.

PS: missed you today at the Raven brekky meet..No Merv either Mark on his Hols in Wet Welsh Wales again:muttley:

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pointer2null

I would never use a split link. Did it one and on the way to work noticed a clunking form the chain. Stopped to look as found the retaining clip has gone and the link was coming apart. The clunk was the two parts of the chain misaligning. Had a photo - see if I can find it and manage to get it posted (never had any luck with this forum and images)

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shiggsy

Split link is fine if it's riveted, split link with a spring clip is not so good. I had several of the spring clips go missing when I used them, always rivet now (although my current one is endless)

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pointer2null
6 minutes ago, shiggsy said:

Split link is fine if it's riveted, split link with a spring clip is not so good. I had several of the spring clips go missing when I used them, always rivet now (although my current one is endless)

? If it's riveted it isn't a split link: i.e. you can't take it to pieces by un-clipping it. (by split link I mean one of these)

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SteveThackery
1 hour ago, pointer2null said:

? If it's riveted it isn't a split link: i.e. you can't take it to pieces by un-clipping it. (by split link I mean one of these)

 

That's what I was thinking.   Isn't an endless chain the same as one with two ends which you've riveted together?  In other words, a riveted link is just a link like every other link in the chain.

 

Or is that wrong?

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9 hours ago, SteveThackery said:

 

That's what I was thinking.   Isn't an endless chain the same as one with two ends which you've riveted together?  In other words, a riveted link is just a link like every other link in the chain.

 

Or is that wrong?

 

It's little bit wrong.. :D 

 

The links the chain manufacturers provide as joining links have softer ends to allow them to be swaged over by home (and dealer) mechanics. 

 

A chain supplied as 'endless' will have hard links all round.

 

So, a chain with a joining link will never become endless. When splitting a chain I always search for a joint because that will push through with little effort. Trying to 'break' an endless chain is best done by grinding off the hard rivets first.

 

And, as a point of interest, there is nothing wrong with a, correctly fitted, spring clip. For race use we put a dab of silicone on them or (as in the case of the Paton in the pic) a single twist of lock wire. The spring clip on that particular machine had been used at least three times before. :) 

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shiggsy

I regard an endless chain as one that is supplied like that, and a split link that is one that you have to join together yourself, of which there are two methods.  They are  just my definitions though. :pirate:

Edited by shiggsy
i don't proof read until after I submit it
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Trumpet

Just to add more confusion, DID supply a soft link that can be riveted with a DID supplied tool. (other makes are available) I always reconginise a split link as one that can be broken and remade with the sliding clip. The soft rivet link and the endless chain are considered more reliable, one less part to worry about.

Edited by Trumpet
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Guest DelBoy

Fitted a 525 to mine (JT chain and sprockets), no problems at all  and I don't have to adjust it every ten minutes, unlike the original.

In fact after the initial adjustment it has not needed adjustment for ages (mind you I did also fit a chain oiler, when I fitted the new chain & Sprockets).

 

The 520 chain is much too small for the bike IMO :thumbsup:

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pointer2null
43 minutes ago, DelBoy said:

Fitted a 525 to mine (JT chain and sprockets), no problems at all  and I don't have to adjust it every ten minutes, unlike the original.

In fact after the initial adjustment it has not needed adjustment for ages (mind you I did also fit a chain oiler, when I fitted the new chain & Sprockets).

 

The 520 chain is much too small for the bike IMO :thumbsup:

I was thinking about this one the way home today - not long adjusted the chain and there is slack in it already. Was wondering if I could get a beefier one.

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3 hours ago, DelBoy said:

Fitted a 525 to mine (JT chain and sprockets), no problems at all  and I don't have to adjust it every ten minutes, unlike the original.

In fact after the initial adjustment it has not needed adjustment for ages (mind you I did also fit a chain oiler, when I fitted the new chain & Sprockets).

 

The 520 chain is much too small for the bike IMO :thumbsup:

Do you have the part numbers to hand ?

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