Replacing front wheel bearing

[rjp996 1,091]

Hi, changed my front tyre at the weekend and putting the wheel back on checked the bearings - one side smooth, the other grawchy...

 

how hard are are they to replace and any tips to drift out the old / get the new in - or is it worth getting a specialist tool. 

 

They have 40k+ miles on them so will change them both.

 

i had noticed a difference on the front end the past couple of days, that I now assume was the bearing. However with the wheel installed and the break calaper on I could feel no play, however when I took the break calaper off, if was masking a very small amount of movement. 

 

 

[embee 7,288]

Youtube is definitely your friend, plenty of how-to vids on changing wheel bearings.

 

Getting the old ones out isn't usually difficult, add some sort of lube (penetrating oil, or at a push WD40 though it isn't the best thing) round the bearing where it fits in the hub. Useful if you heat the hub with a hairdryer or hot air gun, avoid using anything with a flame though. The dust seals usually prise out easily with no damage if you're careful and will refit with finger pressure usually.

 

The bearings usually go in with one down to the stop, and the other just until it traps the spacer (but only just, no axial load worth mentioning). Just checked the manual and it is definitely the disc side which goes fully home, i.e. do this one first. Some folk recommend putting the bearings in the freezer for a couple of hours, it can help with fitting but note they heat up again very quickly so unless you're all set up with fitting tools and ready to go it may be a waste of time. I'd recommend something like SKF, Koyo, FAG etc, I've used various online bearing suppliers, http://www.bearingsrus.co.uk/ or https://www.thebearingcompany.co.uk/ or https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/ are all decent. You need the standard grade 6204 with double seals (designated UU or 2RS etc, NOT ZZ which is shielded rather than sealed) , and NOT C3 grade (extra clearance design), for example http://www.bearingsrus.co.uk/6204-2rs-skf

 

Most important thing is not to drive the bearing in via the ball race itself, i.e. only use the outer race, never the inner. The old bearings can be useful as a drift, especially if you can slightly relieve the outside diameter on a grinder so they are a loose fit in the bore, otherwise they can get stuck.

 

The proper tools have a flat face across the full bearing width so it presses both inner and outer together, this stops you driving the second one in too far and loading the bearings axially. I made some anvils like this and use M16 studding to wind them in, smaller studding (e.g. M12 or M10) will work fine and pulling them in like this is often less traumatic than trying to knock/drift them in (risk of damage). Up to you whether you feel it's worth spending on fitting tools, remembering that they often come as sets for a variety of bearing sizes. It can be done successfully without if you are sympathetic.

 

Final tip .... double check that you've put the spacer in before fitting the second bearing .................

Edited August 6, 2017 by embee

[djsb 493]

I've got one of those bike specific tools where you put a sort of plug with a slot machined into it into the hole and then you insert the large screwdriver type steel rod into the slot and the slot expands. It grips the bearing when you hammer the steel rod into the plug. Difficult to explain but easier to figure out with the tool in front of you.

 

For inserting the bearings I got a few laser cut metal discs off that auction site (45mm x 4mm) and some M12 threaded bar with nuts and washers. I got a couple of holes drilled in the discs at work and now I have a tool for putting new bearings in. I didn't need to fit new ones this time around but I bought some new ones anyway.

Edited August 6, 2017 by djsb

[rjp996 1,091]

Thanks for the advice, just need to source some bearings tomorrow and I will give it a go :-)

[rjp996 1,091]

On 8/6/2017 at 17:21, embee said:

. You need the standard grade 6204 with double seals (designated UU or 2RS etc, NOT ZZ which is shielded rather than sealed) , and NOT C3 grade (extra clearance design), for example

 

Do I understand this correctly that the 6204 is the size of the bearings needed

[Tex 36,817]

25 minutes ago, rjp996 said:

 

Do I understand this correctly that the 6204 is the size of the bearings needed

 

Correct, Richard. Ask for the double sealed type. (Some are only sealed on one side). A bearing supplier will know what you mean.

Edited August 8, 2017 by Tex

[rjp996 1,091]

Thanks Tex.

 

one more question..... on the wemoto site they appear to list a left and right front wheel bearing as if there is a difference between the two - i'm assuming that the bearings are not different ?

[Guest sykospain]

Richard:-

https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/pieces-honda-detail-71461-71461-NC750SAE-2015-F_11-NC+750+S+ABS.html

[Tex 36,817]

1 hour ago, rjp996 said:

Thanks Tex.

 

one more question..... on the wemoto site they appear to list a left and right front wheel bearing as if there is a difference between the two - i'm assuming that the bearings are not different ?

 

No, if you look at the link, kindly provided by Alan, in the above post you'll see that both bearings are the same part number.

[mcress 139]

I replaced both fronts on my 750 last week - it's dead easy - I had the same - 1 bearing had failed due to water ingress, the other was fine.

 

I also changed my headstock bearings for a Taper Roller conversion as they had become 'notchy; (48k miles) - not such an easy job, getting the lower cup out required some 'special tool makeage' but the result is well worth it....

 

Cheers,

 

Mike.

[rjp996 1,091]

Mike - how did you remove the bearings on the wheel, with a puller or just push the centre spacer a little to the side and tap out with a long screwdriver, and then use the old bearing as a drift to tap new ones back in. 

Edited August 8, 2017 by rjp996

[Tex 36,817]

2 hours ago, rjp996 said:

Mike - how did you remove the bearings on the wheel, with a puller or just push the centre spacer a little to the side and tap out with a long screwdriver, and then use the old bearing as a drift to tap new ones back in. 

 

Basically, that's the way to do it. Or you can use a suitable size socket to drive the new ones home. Patience is the key. Don't just belt 'em in - make sure they're going in straight.

[rjp996 1,091]

Thanks for all the information - parts now on order and looking forward to tinkering with the bike at the weekend :-)

[mcress 139]

Yep - just as Tex says! The good thing with the NC fronts is that the outer seal diameter is greater than the bearing, so you can use the old bearing to drift the new one in, without it becoming stuck.

 

 

[Rednc750se 171]

Any bearings I need is purchased from Haley bearings, always good quality.