How many accessories can I connect directly to the battery posts?

[alhendo1 3,053]

Good afternoon everyone. As per the title....I already have Oxford heated grips connected directly to the battery terminals. I'd also like to connect my Ctek charger and Keis heated vest terminals....so 3 eyelets each terminal.

Sorry if this is a daft question but is this ok to do?...ie too many things connected directly to the battery....they all have their own inline fuse.....thanks.

 

 

Edited November 29, 2017 by alhendo1

[Tex 36,817]

While it’s not the way many of us would choose to do it - I can’t actually come up with a convincing argument against it.  

 

Keep all your additional wiring neat and tidy, clipped into place, etc and you should be fine

[alhendo1 3,053]

Thanks for the reply Tex....what way would you suggest doing it as I'm open to advice ..are we talking about harnesses? I've read on here about wiring harnesses that you can buy but it then seems you've got to buy different connectors etc for them. Re the heated grips...I'd rather not cut into wiring as I have no electrical knowledge. I think you can buy a power lead for the Keis vest that would suit my old Ctek charger....that would cut it down to two things connected I suppose.

Edited November 29, 2017 by alhendo1

[Andy m 23,633]

The only issue IMHO is how long the bolts get hence the risk of coming loose or touching something and making a short.

 

I'd rather have three rings on the terminal done well than some lash up of scotch locks and whatever.

 

The sub loom with relay and fuse is best because then everything goes off with the ignition so less chance of a flat battery or worse.

 

Andy

[ste7ios 469]

I agree 100% w/Andy.

 

And the flat battery may happen more easily to happen than we think, especially as the battery ages...

 

I would recommend the accessory subharness kit to avoid all of these problems.

[alhendo1 3,053]

Thanks for the reply Andy m. I've connected the grips and ctek lead directly to the terminals for now....the screws seem long enough and they're secure. I'll probably just buy the additional Keis lead that has the same connecter as the Ctek....that way it's only two rings on each terminal. I'll investigate the sub loom and read up on that and see how it's done. I can ask for advice on here if I'm struggling.

[alhendo1 3,053]

4 minutes ago, ste7ios said:

I agree 100% w/Andy.

 

And the flat battery may happen more easily to happen than we think, especially as the battery ages...

 

I would recommend the accessory subharness kit to avoid all of these problems.

Thanks for the reply....I'll run with the terminals just now and investigate the sub harness.

[ste7ios 469]

The charger should go directly to the battery posts but be sure that the connections are firm.

[Tex 36,817]

What year is the machine? You can  save a whole lot of wiring by powering the heated grips from the front stop light switch (on non LED light models) . Honda actually sell a small ‘loom adapter’ to allow this. 

 

They’re typically Honda expensive (£30) but I’m pretty sure I have a spare one you can have if it helps?

[Dunnster 1,650]

Sub harness is reduced from £20 to £7 for the NC700 here 

 Not sure if this is compatible with the NC750

 

https://northwestmotorcyclesdirect.com/Honda-NC700-Quartet-Harness

 

Relay kit to go with it for £13  

 THIS FITS 700 & 750

Manufacturer: Honda
Compatibile with: 
Honda NC700X 2012-2013
Honda NC700S 2012-2013
Honda NC700D 2012-2013
Honda NC750S 2014-2016

Honda NC750X 2014-2016
Part number: 08A70-MGS-D30

 

https://northwestmotorcyclesdirect.com/Honda-NC750S-Relay-Kit-08A70-MGS-D30

Edited November 29, 2017 by Dunnster

[steelhorseuk 1,695]

Your Honda mechanic (or any service technician) might get all confused when the battery is disconnected for maintenance.

If you have to do it that way, label all the connecting leads with what does what!  It will save a lot of confusion.

 

-Mark- 

Edited November 29, 2017 by Smudger

[alhendo1 3,053]

1 hour ago, Tex said:

What year is the machine? You can  save a whole lot of wiring by powering the heated grips from the front stop light switch (on non LED light models) . Honda actually sell a small ‘loom adapter’ to allow this. 

 

They’re typically Honda expensive (£30) but I’m pretty sure I have a spare one you can have if it helps?

Ah...its the 2017 led light model....thanks anyway👍

[outrunner 4,457]

On my bike I run heated grips, heated jacket, spotlights, handlebar mounted socket and satnav power but not being a fan of loads of connectors on the battery I have gone the way of a Centech fuse panel (other devices are available) which is run from the battery by way of a relay. That ensures no tangle of wires around the battery and when the ignition is off there is no chance of mistakenly leaving something on to discharge the battery.  I have used this method on many bikes including canbus equipped BMW's and never had a problem.

 

 

Andy.

[Slowboy 20,576]

Fuzeblock from Nippy Normans, really good kit. Or if you've the skills, a normal switching relay linked to an ignition switched circuit. One connection to the battery and one to earth, and small blade type fuse box. Did this for the CRF, in all about a tenner. Used the rear light for switching.

[Rev Ken 6,345]

2 hours ago, slowboy said:

Fuzeblock from Nippy Normans, really good kit. Or if you've the skills, a normal switching relay linked to an ignition switched circuit. One connection to the battery and one to earth, and small blade type fuse box. Did this for the CRF, in all about a tenner. Used the rear light for switching.

Me also! It allows permanent or switched circuits, depending on which side the blade fuses are placed, and as an extra bonus the switched side has a delay so that if for instance you have a cam connected and you have an incident and your bike automatically kills the ignition it will continue to record for a minute or so before it switches off.

[fred_jb 10,269]

14 minutes ago, Rev Ken said:

Me also! It allows permanent or switched circuits, depending on which side the blade fuses are placed, and as an extra bonus the switched side has a delay so that if for instance you have a cam connected and you have an incident and your bike automatically kills the ignition it will continue to record for a minute or so before it switches off.

Not sure about the delay.  I thought it was just a simple relay inside that switches off as soon as the trigger input goes off.  However, if the trigger input you use has a delay, like the accessories power on my GS does, then it will keep the Fuzeblock switched on after the ignition goes off.

 

 

Edited November 29, 2017 by fred_jb

[Rev Ken 6,345]

19 minutes ago, fred_jb said:

Not sure about the delay.  I thought it was just a simple relay inside that switches off as soon as the trigger input goes off.  However, if the trigger input you use has a delay, like the accessories power on my GS does, then it will keep the Fuzeblock switched on after the ignition goes off.

 

 

Ah you could be right Fred, the first time I noticed it was when my DLR lights on my BMW F800GT stayed on after switching my ignition off. It is just wired into the ignition circuit so far as I remember, but then CANBUS is black magic to me.

[Graham NZ 1,186]

I added Three circuits onto the battery.  One for air horns, heated grips and frunk socket.  A needed longer screw was easy on the + but a longer screw onto the - needed to be shortened slightly.  I often shorten screws but it's not something everyone would find easy.

 

There is a useful space above the battery where my added circuits' fuses are kept.  Remove two screws and the plastic panel and there thy are, along with spare fuses in a plastic envelope.

[TheEnglishman 401]

Get a fuze block or something similar.  Bodging stuff directly onto the battery terminals is prone to cause electrical issues, create difficulties when fault finding and a mess that's just going to be unreliable in the long term.

[Matatpub 53]

3 is the limit as I have heated body warmer heated grips and 12v in the trunk fitted to the battery

[alhendo1 3,053]

Thanks for all the replies/suggestions. ..food for thought.....I've connected up the two grips and charger for the moment.....if I'm keeping the bike long term I'll investigate the harness. ..I'm see9ng pics of the Enfield 650 due for release in April/May next year.....I think it looks great. ..what's your thoughts???

[Tex 36,817]

I don’t know enough about the Enfield to give advice of any value. My boss saw a development hack at our frame makers and they told him it had done a huge amount of miles in testing. I’m talking HUGE. I think it’s going to be a good bike for the right customer. For the wrong customer I suspect a nightmare will ensure. 

 

If you’re the ‘right guy’, give us a go on it when you get it.  

[Rick 236]

I am still not sure from all these posts, if I fit the Honda accessory loom to my 2016 nc750x do I need another relay between that and my heated grips/spot lights/12v socket (for a heated  jacket) or is the relay/fuse before the loom doing all that's required. 

[commuter 262]

Not directly related but useful to know, you can fit a voltmeter to the ignition feed circuit. This gives you a very good indication as to how you are draining the battery verses how the battery may be charging. Seeing 11 volts means that you are taking more out of the battery that your alternator is putting in and therefore you might think about switching off those spot lights or you hands are quite warm enough.  Seeing 12.5 to 13 volts means that your system is coping.You have to remember that you need power in the battery to start the engine from cold. Ammeters are quite popular but are not very easy to wire into a modern bike since they rely on all the power to flow through them. 

Also, seeing much more than 14.5 volts means that you need to look at your regulator since it is wanting to slow cook your battery.

The trouble with having a lot of auxiliaries is monitoring what effect they are having as well as how to go about connecting them all.

[Slowboy 20,576]

2 hours ago, Rick said:

I am still not sure from all these posts, if I fit the Honda accessory loom to my 2016 nc750x do I need another relay between that and my heated grips/spot lights/12v socket (for a heated  jacket) or is the relay/fuse before the loom doing all that's required. 

Rick, if your down the southwest, send me a PM and we can arrange to sort it out for you. I have already wired up my bikes and at least one other member from here. It's about four or five hours work. No charge.