Jump to content

Chain wear, when to replace?


MatBin

Recommended Posts

MatBin

Many years ago one of the "indicators" if a worn chain was sideways play, such that if you took a chain off the bike and held it horizontal with the side of the links parallel to the floor it shouldn't dip by a certain amount. Is that still the case? Given that we can't take the chain off easily, no split link, how do we measure sideways movement and what's the limit. The chain on my bike seems very easy to move sideways so I fear it may be knackered despite their being an amount of rearward movement still available.

Also does anyone use a split link chain, given the NC only produces 54 horses surely a split link chain, if available, would be fine and make fitting a new one much easier?

Link to post
fj_stuart

My experience is that O-ring chains never wear out. That is they never elongate to the point that they don’t work property. Every O-ring chain I have replaced was because some links seized and the chain was difficult to adjust and became “clunky”.

 

As for split links they should be consigned to history. A riveting tool produces a much better job.

  • Like 3
Link to post
Grumpy old man

When the chain is adjusted properly make sure that the sideways movement doesn't touch the tyre and of course lifting the chain off the rear sprocket at around the quarter past position is also an indicator of a worn chain. I've been using a split link for tha last 5000 miles there's a thread on here about the the use of spring links there are some against and some for.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Andy m

Good advice above. They seem to fail by stuck links. 

 

I'd rather see a clip link fitted correctly than a dodgy rivet. The temptation is that tight is right, so they screw down the tool and make a stiff link on day 1.

 

Andy

  • Like 3
Link to post
Slowboy
2 hours ago, Andy m said:

Good advice above. They seem to fail by stuck links. 

 

I'd rather see a clip link fitted correctly than a dodgy rivet. The temptation is that tight is right, so they screw down the tool and make a stiff link on day 1.

 

Andy

 

True, but these are the people who should have their toolboxes taken from them and be barred from Halfords😁 and have a dealer or local mechanic on speed dial. To do a rivet properly you need a vernier caliper to measure the spread. Then it stays right for the life of the chain. 😇

If you fit a split link properly, that's fine to. 

Edited by slowboy
  • Like 2
Link to post
davebike

The chain wear test I prefer is with the chain correctly lubricated and adjusted grip a pin at the rear of the rear sprocket, pull away from the sprocket. If you can see daylight between chain and sprocket it is getting to be time if you can get a pencil though it is past time !

I understand that 40BHP  is the limit for clip links now (I think that comes from DID)

 

Anyone looking at wider(stronger) chains  I think reading JT Sprockets catologue that 530 is possible with original sizes but not 525 

Anyone know how DCT is affected by gearing change  of course a speedo healer would be needed !

Link to post
Slowboy
6 minutes ago, davebike said:

Anyone know how DCT is affected by gearing change  of course a speedo healer would be needed !

 

It is affected, and not in a good way. There was a thread about it on here, but I can't find it now. From memory I think it only works properly with the standard gearing as it can't cope with operating outside its standard parameters.  It needs engine speed, throttle position and road speed to be in spec basically.

Hopefully someone like @SteveThackery will be along with a more definitive answer👍

Link to post
1 hour ago, slowboy said:

If you fit a split link properly, that's fine to.

 

Agreed.

 

I can't say I've given it much thought up to now. The only problem I had was a standard link side plate breaking in the middle. The link that broke was well away from the split link which was fine - poorly maintained Bantam circa 1973, not enough to stop a low-powered bike limping some miles into town on a SW England tour. :D

 

Anyway, quick search doesn't turn up split link or master link problems. E.g. looking for a video loading a bunch of chains to destruction to find if split links are more likely to fail.

  • Like 1
Link to post
rjp996

My O/x ring chains have all failed in the end with seized links, and the amount of tightening over the life has been minimal. I measure a couple New to Old and chain length was the same, so I expect the small amount of adjustment I needed to make over its life was more related to the wear on the front and rear sprocket than and 'stretching' of the chain.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Slowboy
1 hour ago, rjp996 said:

My O/x ring chains have all failed in the end with seized links, and the amount of tightening over the life has been minimal. I measure a couple New to Old and chain length was the same, so I expect the small amount of adjustment I needed to make over its life was more related to the wear on the front and rear sprocket than and 'stretching' of the chain.

 

I tend to replace the front sprocket at 8 to 12 thousand miles, because that takes the greatest wear. It's amazing how much smoother the bike is after that. Most of my DID chain have lasted over 20k with the level of mantenance AndyM proposes.

  • Like 1
Link to post

Split link on NC750X @44 seconds

 

 

Link to post

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...