SteveThackery 3,090 Posted October 2, 2021 Share Posted October 2, 2021 (edited) 14 hours ago, davebike said: although I never seen it or heard of it on a DCT bike But it is one of the signs that a recalibrate is required, as already mentioned. I would: Make sure the oil is 10W30 (or whatever is specified for your country), and at the correct level Fit a clean DCT filter Perform the DCT recalibration procedure Then I would drive it and see what it's like. I'd do that before any dismantling. I don't think the pin can be the problem - a broken pin causes bad gear changes, not a dragging clutch, as far as I know. Edited October 2, 2021 by SteveThackery 2 Link to post
Ink_operated 4 Posted October 5, 2021 Author Share Posted October 5, 2021 @davebike thanks for the advice on this. I removed some of the oil, the engine had almost a litre of extra oil (which is insane) and the bike rides and changes gear with less clunk but the clutch drag is still present and shifts really hard from neutral to first... I am going to do a full oil change and filter change, check/change the shift pin, then recalibrate (hope that works cause the other stuff you mentioned sounds expensive to fix). @SteveThackery one of the issues mentioned in the original post is the bike not going into neutral before I shut off the bike however it goes into neutral when the bike is off. Like you guys stated it may be a hydraulic problem with the oil but since it's so easy for me to check the shift pin, I will check it during the oil change just to eliminate that possibility. I appreciate you guys advice and thoughts. 1 Link to post
SteveThackery 3,090 Posted October 6, 2021 Share Posted October 6, 2021 4 hours ago, Ink_operated said: one of the issues mentioned in the original post is the bike not going into neutral before I shut off the bike however it goes into neutral when the bike is off. That may well be due to the clutch drag. You will already know how difficult it makes shifting into neutral on a manual bike; it's the same with the DCT. The dogs in the gearbox "cling" to each other when under torque. Link to post
MatBin 5,105 Posted October 6, 2021 Share Posted October 6, 2021 You do seem intent on dismantling and replacing the pin. Only a small batch of pins were incorrectly hardened so dismantling may be completely unecessary, but if that's what you want to do then I guess nothing we say will convince you otherwise. Hey ho. 1 Link to post
Ink_operated 4 Posted October 6, 2021 Author Share Posted October 6, 2021 (edited) 4 hours ago, MatBin said: You do seem intent on dismantling and replacing the pin. Only a small batch of pins were incorrectly hardened so dismantling may be completely unecessary, but if that's what you want to do then I guess nothing we say will convince you otherwise. Hey ho. @MatBin ok I'll only do the oil and filter change and recalibrate. Will let you guys know what happens Edited October 6, 2021 by Ink_operated Link to post
Steve Case 957 Posted October 7, 2021 Share Posted October 7, 2021 Heres a question that I just thought of all by myself.... if someone chucked in any old oil just to top it up and the oil was heavy like gear oil, could this lead to the clutch plates failing to release adequately and/or poor operation of the DCT? Any way a simple test has to be changing the oil to one you know is correct, it at least ticks that tickbox in the list of tickboxes. 1 Link to post
Ink_operated 4 Posted October 7, 2021 Author Share Posted October 7, 2021 5 hours ago, Steve Case said: Heres a question that I just thought of all by myself.... if someone chucked in any old oil just to top it up and the oil was heavy like gear oil, could this lead to the clutch plates failing to release adequately and/or poor operation of the DCT? Any way a simple test has to be changing the oil to one you know is correct, it at least ticks that tickbox in the list of tickboxes. @Steve CaseI agree. I'm here for everyone's advice so I'm gonna take it and change out the oil this weekend only because I work during the week. 1 Link to post
MatBin 5,105 Posted October 7, 2021 Share Posted October 7, 2021 7 hours ago, Steve Case said: Heres a question that I just thought of all by myself.... if someone chucked in any old oil just to top it up and the oil was heavy like gear oil, could this lead to the clutch plates failing to release adequately and/or poor operation of the DCT? Any way a simple test has to be changing the oil to one you know is correct, it at least ticks that tickbox in the list of tickboxes. If I drained it and it looked too heavy I think I might consider flushing the engine before putting new oil in, just in case. 1 Link to post
Ink_operated 4 Posted October 7, 2021 Author Share Posted October 7, 2021 (edited) 5 hours ago, MatBin said: If I drained it and it looked too heavy I think I might consider flushing the engine before putting new oil in, just in case. @MatBin I was considering that to. How do you suggest i do this? Edited October 7, 2021 by Ink_operated Link to post
MatBin 5,105 Posted October 7, 2021 Share Posted October 7, 2021 47 minutes ago, Ink_operated said: @MatBin I was considering that to. How do you suggest i do this? Drain what's in there. Refill with any decent cheap oil, even car oil will be ok for a quick 20 minute run. Use existing filters. Drain and replace with correct oil and filters. Unless anyone knows better? 1 Link to post
davebike 943 Posted October 8, 2021 Share Posted October 8, 2021 Quote even car oil will be ok for a quick 20 minute run NO yust NO if it has friction modifiers it will contaminate the clutchs plates are not aviable seperatle so two clutches at £600 each !! Do not risk car oil in a DCT 1 1 Link to post
DaveM59 1,610 Posted October 8, 2021 Share Posted October 8, 2021 Can you use a proper flushing oil in a DCT? Link to post
davebike 943 Posted October 8, 2021 Share Posted October 8, 2021 Possiably I be carefull should be OK but I not do so unless the engine is mingging I would just change the oil as usual inc both filters but perhaps semi, not the fully I usually use. Then do 500miles and another change and an other set filters 3 Link to post
Steve Case 957 Posted October 8, 2021 Share Posted October 8, 2021 Oh and 10W40. Just cos I can... Link to post
MatBin 5,105 Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 (edited) On 08/10/2021 at 07:33, davebike said: NO yust NO if it has friction modifiers it will contaminate the clutchs plates are not aviable seperatle so two clutches at £600 each !! Do not risk car oil in a DCT I read on several YouTube's that car oil is ok in a bike engine for short periods, I used car oil, accidentally, on my Sprint and it was fine. But I bow to your superior knowledge and experience, which is why I added "if anyone knows better" Edited October 9, 2021 by MatBin Link to post
Ink_operated 4 Posted October 9, 2021 Author Share Posted October 9, 2021 (edited) @davebike Bad news after oil change...clutch drag still present and bike won't shift into neutral when stopped. I will say first ride after oil change there was no clutch drag but it came back after I stopped and started again. Edited October 9, 2021 by Ink_operated Link to post
Ozzieflyer 15 Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 If you don’t mind saying, what oil did you use? Viscosity and brand. Link to post
Ink_operated 4 Posted October 10, 2021 Author Share Posted October 10, 2021 (edited) @Ozzieflyer 10w-40 (recommended for my climate) Motul 7100 (100% synthetic). Edited October 10, 2021 by Ink_operated Link to post
Ozzieflyer 15 Posted October 10, 2021 Share Posted October 10, 2021 Motul is a great brand so no probs there. What does your owners manual recommend for oil viscosity? Not sure what difference 10w/40 do if the manual recommended 10w/30. I am sure others would enlighten us on this point. Just a thought though, is your idle speed higher than recommended? Would this make it roll in 1st and hard to get out of 1st? Hope this helps. Link to post
Ink_operated 4 Posted October 11, 2021 Author Share Posted October 11, 2021 @Ozzieflyer these questions were previously answered. Oil I'm using is based on climate (manual states so plus it's a higher mileage motorcycle) and idle speed is normal. Link to post
Ink_operated 4 Posted October 11, 2021 Author Share Posted October 11, 2021 @davebike I remember you mentioned control valves could be the cause of the drag. Can you give me some insight on this? Link to post
davebike 943 Posted October 11, 2021 Share Posted October 11, 2021 Quote @davebike I remember you mentioned control valves could be the cause of the drag. Can you give me some insight on this? Only an idea if there is or was really dirty oil in engine/gearbox there may be a partial blockage in the hydrolics or the servo valves that control it AS I said befor if it was in my workshop the first thing I do is change the oil and filters (having run it to fully hot) then run to fully hot (fan on ) and do DCT reset Still draging (assuming tickover correct) I would strip the clutches and check the drive pin not because I think the drive pin can cause your issue but as you got the clutches out to check it 10mins to check the pin On most bikes the first responce to dragging clutches is a new full set of plates friction and steel but DCT clutches are only supplied as compleat assemblies at £££ 1 Link to post
Ink_operated 4 Posted October 11, 2021 Author Share Posted October 11, 2021 Thank you for your help @davebike and I'm gonna do exactly what you prescribed. Appreciate all the help. Will follow up on the forum and let you guys know what happened. Link to post
Ink_operated 4 Posted October 11, 2021 Author Share Posted October 11, 2021 @davebike check this link out and tell me if you think this clutch pack would work. https://m.aliexpress.com/item/1005003232875279.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail Link to post
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