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Bike rolls after switching from neutral to first gear.


Ink_operated

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SteveThackery
14 hours ago, davebike said:

although I never seen it or heard of it on a DCT bike

 

But it is one of the signs that a recalibrate is required, as already mentioned.  I would:

 

  1. Make sure the oil is 10W30 (or whatever is specified for your country), and at the correct level
  2. Fit a clean DCT filter
  3. Perform the DCT recalibration procedure

 

Then I would drive it and see what it's like.  I'd do that before any dismantling.  I don't think the pin can be the problem - a broken pin causes bad gear changes, not a dragging clutch, as far as I know.

Edited by SteveThackery
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Clutches fail in two ways   Slip and drag   you description IS DRAG ! Slip is failour to fully engage  most often worn friction plates or springs Drag is failour to full disengage most often

I would think it is a clutch issue  my feeling is at least one clutch is dragging  Do the shift pin but I not sure it is the problem but do the other bit that go with it new fresh oil 10/30 and t

Possiably I be carefull should be OK but I not do so unless the engine is mingging I would just change the oil as usual inc both filters  but perhaps semi,  not the fully I usually use. Then  do

Ink_operated

@davebike thanks for the advice on this. I removed some of the oil, the engine had almost a litre of extra oil (which is insane) and the bike rides and changes gear with less clunk but the clutch drag is still present and shifts really hard from neutral to first... I am going to do a full oil change and filter change, check/change the shift pin, then recalibrate (hope that works cause the other stuff you mentioned sounds expensive to fix). @SteveThackery one of the issues mentioned in the original post is the bike not going into neutral before I shut off the bike however it goes into neutral when the bike is off. Like you guys stated it may be a hydraulic problem with the oil but since it's so easy for me to check the shift pin, I will check it during the oil change just to eliminate that possibility. I appreciate you guys advice and thoughts. 

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SteveThackery
4 hours ago, Ink_operated said:

one of the issues mentioned in the original post is the bike not going into neutral before I shut off the bike however it goes into neutral when the bike is off.

 

That may well be due to the clutch drag.  You will already know how difficult it makes shifting into neutral on a manual bike; it's the same with the DCT.  The dogs in the gearbox "cling" to each other when under torque.

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MatBin

You do seem intent on dismantling and replacing the pin. Only a small batch of pins were incorrectly hardened so dismantling may be completely unecessary, but if that's what you want to do then I guess nothing we say will convince you otherwise. Hey ho.

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Ink_operated
4 hours ago, MatBin said:

You do seem intent on dismantling and replacing the pin. Only a small batch of pins were incorrectly hardened so dismantling may be completely unecessary, but if that's what you want to do then I guess nothing we say will convince you otherwise. Hey ho.

@MatBin ok I'll only do the oil and filter change and recalibrate. Will let you guys know what happens

Edited by Ink_operated
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Steve Case

Heres a question that I just thought of all by myself.... if someone chucked in any old oil just to top it up and the oil was heavy like gear oil, could this lead to the clutch plates failing to release adequately and/or poor operation of the DCT?

 

Any way a simple test has to be changing the oil to one you know is correct, it at least ticks that tickbox in the list of tickboxes.

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Ink_operated
5 hours ago, Steve Case said:

Heres a question that I just thought of all by myself.... if someone chucked in any old oil just to top it up and the oil was heavy like gear oil, could this lead to the clutch plates failing to release adequately and/or poor operation of the DCT?

 

Any way a simple test has to be changing the oil to one you know is correct, it at least ticks that tickbox in the list of tickboxes.

@Steve CaseI agree. I'm here for everyone's advice so I'm gonna take it and change out the oil this weekend only because I work during the week. 

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MatBin
7 hours ago, Steve Case said:

Heres a question that I just thought of all by myself.... if someone chucked in any old oil just to top it up and the oil was heavy like gear oil, could this lead to the clutch plates failing to release adequately and/or poor operation of the DCT?

 

Any way a simple test has to be changing the oil to one you know is correct, it at least ticks that tickbox in the list of tickboxes.

If I drained it and it looked too heavy I think I might consider flushing the engine before putting new oil in, just in case.

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Ink_operated
5 hours ago, MatBin said:

If I drained it and it looked too heavy I think I might consider flushing the engine before putting new oil in, just in case.

@MatBin I was considering that to. How do you suggest i do this?

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MatBin
47 minutes ago, Ink_operated said:

@MatBin I was considering that to. How do you suggest i do this?

Drain what's in there.

Refill with any decent cheap oil, even car oil will be ok for a quick 20 minute run. Use existing filters.

Drain and replace with correct oil and filters.

 

Unless anyone knows better?

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davebike
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even car oil will be ok for a quick 20 minute run

NO yust NO if it has friction modifiers it will contaminate the clutchs  plates are not aviable seperatle  so two clutches at £600 each !!

Do not risk car oil in a DCT

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DaveM59

Can you use a proper flushing oil in a DCT?

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davebike

Possiably I be carefull should be OK but I not do so unless the engine is mingging

I would just change the oil as usual inc both filters  but perhaps semi,  not the fully I usually use. Then  do 500miles and  another change and an other set filters

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Steve Case

What Dave said.

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Steve Case

Oh and 10W40.

 

Just cos I can...

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MatBin
On 08/10/2021 at 07:33, davebike said:

NO yust NO if it has friction modifiers it will contaminate the clutchs  plates are not aviable seperatle  so two clutches at £600 each !!

Do not risk car oil in a DCT

I read on several YouTube's that car oil is ok in a bike engine for short periods, I used car oil, accidentally, on my Sprint and it was fine. But I bow to your superior knowledge and experience, which is why I added "if anyone knows better" :)

Edited by MatBin
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Ink_operated

@davebike Bad news after oil change...clutch drag still present and bike won't shift into neutral when stopped. I will say first ride after oil change there was no clutch drag but it came back after I stopped and started again. 

Edited by Ink_operated
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Ozzieflyer

Motul is a great brand so no probs there. 
What does your owners manual recommend for oil viscosity?  Not sure what difference 10w/40 do if the manual recommended 10w/30. I am sure others would enlighten us on this point. 
Just a thought though, is your idle speed higher than recommended?  Would this make it roll in 1st and hard to get out of 1st?

Hope this helps.

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@davebike I remember you mentioned control valves could be the cause of the drag. Can you give me some insight on this?

Only an idea  if there is or was really dirty oil in engine/gearbox there may be a partial blockage in the hydrolics or the servo valves that control it

AS I said befor if it was in my workshop the first thing I do is change the oil and filters (having run it to fully hot) then run to fully hot (fan on ) and do DCT reset

Still draging (assuming tickover correct) I would strip the clutches and check the drive pin not because I think the drive pin can cause your issue but as you got the clutches out to check it 10mins to check the pin

On most bikes the first responce to dragging clutches is a new full set of plates friction and steel but DCT clutches are only supplied as compleat assemblies at £££ 

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Ink_operated

Thank you for your help @davebike and I'm gonna do exactly what you prescribed. Appreciate all the help. Will follow up on the forum and let you guys know what happened. 

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