Front disc warped again.

[Wierpig 32]

2019 x and the front disc is warped for the second time.Familiar pulsing and erratic slow down.0.6 runout on dti.This is the second genuine honda disc at 6000 miles and im beginning to suspect the wheel.

Anyone else had this? 

[rjp996 1,091]

do you have really loose wheel bearings, bent wheel or some such - do you have a way to measure the run out with the disc not on the wheel to discount any other issue 

[outrunner 4,457]

Strange, my 16 plate 750X is nearing 70 thousand miles and still on the original discs so there must be an underlying cause for your problem.

 

When fitting a new disc it is a good idea to check with a dial guage to make sure it is seated properly, just because it looks right does not mean it is, just my thoughts on the matter.

 

Andy.

Edited January 21, 2022 by outrunner

[davebike 943]

I would suspect a sticky calliper or somthing else overheating it  are you using aftermarket front brake leaver if so dose it clear the piston when relised?

 

[skorpion 946]

Try cleaning the disc with Scotch Brite or wet & dry paper, then fit a New set of EBC hh pads.

 

Disc's don't normally warp, they just feel like they have. the juddering is caused by uneven brake pad residue building up on the disc, some pads are worse than others.

[sandalfarm 2,767]

I was told that it could be the disc not floating free on the bobbins that hold the disc onto the wheel and these need to be freed up by fastening  a nut and bolt through  the fastener and jiggle  it about

[jeremyr62 2,587]

No bobbins on the NC disc. It's bolted straight to the wheel.

[MatBin 5,105]

4 hours ago, jeremyr62 said:

No bobbins on the NC disc. It's bolted straight to the wheel.

Had that on my BMW, warped the discs, twice.

[Wierpig 32]

16 hours ago, MatBin said:

Had that on my BMW, warped the discs, twice.

Then what? Were the third pair ok? Or was there an underlying issue with the wheel.The disc mounting posts appear to be of even height so cant think what else it could be.Thinking of going for a brembo disc.

[MatBin 5,105]

8 minutes ago, Wierpig said:

Then what? Were the third pair ok? Or was there an underlying issue with the wheel.The disc mounting posts appear to be of even height so cant think what else it could be.Thinking of going for a brembo disc.

I swapped out the first set of genuine BMW discs for pattern ones, both makes were solid no bobbins, both warped at relatively low mileage. The pulsing wrecked my left shoulder too. Went back to BM dealer and they suggested new wheel and discs, still solid ones, at an horrendous price, so I traded up to a Triumph Sprint and both problems went away.

No-one gave me an explanation, except perhaps they were overheating and warping, I never felt the pads stick or wear rapidly/badly, they were quite small diameter rotors for size of bike but I never had the abs kick in so I don't think it was demonic braking on my part.

Edited January 23, 2022 by MatBin

[Wierpig 32]

24 minutes ago, MatBin said:

I swapped out the first set of genuine BMW discs for pattern ones, both makes were solid no bobbins, both warped at relatively low mileage. The pulsing wrecked my left shoulder too. Went back to BM dealer and they suggested new wheel and discs, still solid ones, at an horrendous price, so I traded up to a Triumph Sprint and both problems went away.

No-one gave me an explanation, except perhaps they were overheating and warping, I never felt the pads stick or wear rapidly/badly, they were quite small diameter rotors for size of bike but I never had the abs kick in so I don't think it was demonic braking on my part.

Haha..change the bike.Extreme solution!

[Xactly 5,465]

36 minutes ago, MatBin said:

I swapped out the first set of genuine BMW discs for pattern ones, both makes were solid no bobbins, both warped at relatively low mileage. The pulsing wrecked my left shoulder too. Went back to BM dealer and they suggested new wheel and discs, still solid ones, at an horrendous price, so I traded up to a Triumph Sprint and both problems went away.

No-one gave me an explanation, except perhaps they were overheating and warping, I never felt the pads stick or wear rapidly/badly, they were quite small diameter rotors for size of bike but I never had the abs kick in so I don't think it was demonic braking on my part.

Well, BMW dealers would suggest that…There was clearly an issue other than the discs themselves. The usual problem with BMW original discs on the early K series was cracking, not warping. Motorworks and/or MotoBins sold pattern replacement discs at much lower prices than BMW. I never had issues with either of my K series, nor was disc warping a common issue. I’ve said before, you seem to have bought a lemon…

[MatBin 5,105]

37 minutes ago, Xactly said:

Well, BMW dealers would suggest that…There was clearly an issue other than the discs themselves. The usual problem with BMW original discs on the early K series was cracking, not warping. Motorworks and/or MotoBins sold pattern replacement discs at much lower prices than BMW. I never had issues with either of my K series, nor was disc warping a common issue. I’ve said before, you seem to have bought a lemon…

Agreed, when it went I loved it and I loved it's looks, I was seduced by appearance

I wasn't slagging off all BM's - just explaining what happened with mine.

MY R80RT was phenomenal, went so far round the clock mileage wise it broke it, without any significant issues through dreadful salt laden or ice covered winter roads, which is what made the 75 such a disappointment, that and the extortionate price the dealer charged to fix stuff on several occasions. Overall my impression of BMW bikes remains positive, if they did an auto I would have a test ride in a flash.

[Xactly 5,465]

23 minutes ago, MatBin said:

Agreed, when it went I loved it and I loved it's looks, I was seduced by appearance

I wasn't slagging off all BM's - just explaining what happened with mine.

MY R80RT was phenomenal, went so far round the clock mileage wise it broke it, without any significant issues through dreadful salt laden or ice covered winter roads, which is what made the 75 such a disappointment, that and the extortionate price the dealer charged to fix stuff on several occasions. Overall my impression of BMW bikes remains positive, if they did an auto I would have a test ride in a flash.

Yes, rather like me with my RE UCE C5, I think you were unlucky. I’ve had a couple of other new bikes like that (ie generally well-regarded bikes) with which I’ve had trouble: BMW F800GT and Triumph Sprint GT SE. The former had an appalling clutch rattle, slightly misaligned belt drive pulleys and, initially, road drill level vibrations at 80mph. The forum I was on at the time  showed that the first and third issues were not unique to my bike and I still get the odd email about them. I broke the habit of a lunchtime and bought a new model 2013, thinking that as it was an update on the earlier F800ST it would be ok. Wrong. The early S and STs had issues with the rear bearing too.

The Sprint, brand new, had a weird issue with the starter motor when the engine was hot. Basically it would stick and fail to start the engine. After the first service I rode it down to near Perpignan to visit relatives. Looking for somewhere to stay en route I parked and went into a hotel, returning to my bike it wouldn’t start. I left it a bit and it then started. Again, this was an issue that was not unknown on the Triumph forum. The dealer denied knowing anything about this issue (surprise, surprise). I never did resolve the issue but I didn’t keep the bike long as the clutch was so heavy and the bike was too too heavy for me to avoid dropping the bike when shoving it around, so I traded it in before I did. Come to think of it the Thruxton that replaced it had a loud rattle too. It must be me….

[MatBin 5,105]

My Sprint GT1050 SE wasn't my favourite bike either, very heavy clutch, despite the test model being fine. Weird handling too, traded that for my current NC.

[jeremyr62 2,587]

THey 

1 hour ago, MatBin said:

very heavy clutch, despite the test model being fine

They probably removed a spring or two from the clutch. I went to see a 2000 VFR800FiW a few weeks ago. I used to own a 98 version but the difference in clutch pull was night and day. I just assumed the PO had taken some springs out and was prepared to live with the possibility of a slipping clutch.

[Xactly 5,465]

37 minutes ago, jeremyr62 said:

THey 

They probably removed a spring or two from the clutch. I went to see a 2000 VFR800FiW a few weeks ago. I used to own a 98 version but the difference in clutch pull was night and day. I just assumed the PO had taken some springs out and was prepared to live with the possibility of a slipping clutch.

Removing clutch springs doesn’t seem to me to be good practice and tbh wouldn’t occur to me. Weaker springs maybe; at least the plates are more likely to lift evenly.

[Honda Bob 124]

As Davebike pointed out, Brake Discs are warped by constant heat being applied to the Brake Disc. Nine times out of ten this is caused by a disc pad remaining in constant contact with the disc. It can be very easy to miss if it is just one of the brake pads, on Hondas it tends to be the inboard pad due to the calliper not being free to slide on the supporting pin. I always lubricate my pins with Silicone Grease, as per Honda's recommendation. The easiest way to check is to raise the front wheel off the ground and spin it, there should be zero resistance to rotation, also it should spin for a number of revolutions before coming to a halt. The other thing to check is that it comes to a halt gradually and not with a bang. A good tip is to occasionally push against the calliper moving it inwards as far as it will go and then pump it back out again using the brake lever. This helps lubricate the pin by spreading the lubricant along its working length. Do not expect the calliper to move instantly as it will move very slowly.

[Wierpig 32]

No sticking pad or caliper on mine.Wheel spins freely, pads evenly worn and I always make sure the pins are well lubricated.

[davebike 943]

Well I never seen a wheel cause problems but

Plain disks infact all disks need the points on the wheel they mount to to be Clean but a tuck of grease is good at preventing caooosion hich can warp a disk

floating disks the bobbies get mucky and stuck  rotating them and using a very little lubercant can cure an apparently sized disk

 

I hope whoever changed yours did check the the new ones went on stright  even a screwdrive held close would show extream missfitting a dileguage on a stand is way better

 

[Iron horse 121]

I had a load of ongoing issues with my front brake which is now fixed.

 

I had a lot of issues with the front brake binding and was flagged as an advisory on the mot. I would clean the caliper and it would be better for a while and then return to its previous state. I then replaced the piston seals which was great for a while but still it would eventually start binding again after a few months. I never had any judder, just the binding issue. 

 

I then found that the OEM disc was distorted, in a dished way. I think this was caused by the binding and uneven heating of the disc over time. This in itself was then contributing to the binding. All very frustrating but replaced the disc with a Brembo item in the end. All now ok. 

 

So I think when you have these issues, you may need to do several things at once - clean the caliper, replace the seals, fit a new disc and a set of pads. This is assuming the wheel bearing and wheel are all ok.

 

[Wierpig 32]

Thanks for the replies.I will replace the original warped disc with a brembo item.

The caliper is free to slide, and the pistons are in perfect condition and move freely.Ive stipped and cleaned the item numerous times.The pads are like new and I changed the brake fluid last service.I checked and cleaned the master cylinder and made sure it wasnt sticking.

As I stated, the disc, measured with a dial test indictor, was warped by 0.6 mm.

I "corrected" with a disc correction tool (aluminium drift and hammer) but the warp returned.

From what i can see, the wheel is in perfect condition with no damage.

The front brake is poor as standard, so I hope the brembo gives some improvement.

[Iron horse 121]

I found the Brembo to be much more heavy duty and non wavy design. The quality of the steel is lower and tend to rust much more easily than the OEM, but works perfectly. 

 

If you raise the front of the bike, does the front wheel spin freely? And are the bearings all good?

[Wierpig 32]

Front spins freely, just drags a bit on the warped bit.Bearings are perfect.

[Wierpig 32]

When you say heavy duty, is it much heavier in weight?