Nc700s sump plug

[Xactly 5,419]

1 hour ago, Andy m said:

I can't be bothered to keep a torque wrench calibrated. Without they are just bars with numbers on. 

 

I did get one for when I had the head off the CL. Actually important torques are usually 2-stage, especially if more than one fastener is involved. 

 

Andy 

BMW oilhead cylinder head bolts need a torque wrench for the initial setting then a further 90 degrees or 180 degrees (I forget which). The latter stage becomes quite scary as there is a fear that the long through bolts to the crankcase will snap - it has been known. I wouldn’t try it without a torque wrench.

[DCTPaul 629]

Torque wrenches and calibration or tolerance...

Sometimes it's more about being the same rather the actual amount as in Accuracy v's Resolution v's Precision...

Cylinder Head Bolts... Even and the Same and Criss-Cross...

Plus, as soon as you add grease etc. to bearing surfaces or threads torque settings are out the window!

 

I'm a 1/4, 3/8 or 1/2... and a nip up kind-a-guy... plus a nice breaker bar and steady pressure to undo... unless the impact driver deeds to make a brief appearance for a shock to start procedings.

Edited March 16, 2022 by DCTPaul

[fj_stuart 4,753]

3 hours ago, Xactly said:

I do wonder if the torque for the rear axle nut on the NC has some bearing (sorry) on the relatively short life of the rear wheel bearings. Whilst it isn’t as high as that for your MT10 it still seems very high to me. 

The force that the spindle nut exerts only goes through the inner race of the bearing. It doesn't put any force into the balls. If it did the bearing certainly wouldn't last long.

[davebike 943]

Quote

The force that the spindle nut exerts only goes through the inner race of the bearing. It doesn't put any force into the balls. If it did the bearing certainly wouldn't last long.

The issue with this is that the inner spacer (between the inner racesof the bearings) is not hat strong

Tyre centre gorrilla with air gun can dammage this spacer the bearings are now side loaded and WILL fail

Always add grease to spindle and into the bearing as much as possiable and do not overtighten

 

[Xactly 5,419]

1 hour ago, davebike said:

The issue with this is that the inner spacer (between the inner racesof the bearings) is not hat strong

Tyre centre gorrilla with air gun can dammage this spacer the bearings are now side loaded and WILL fail

Always add grease to spindle and into the bearing as much as possiable and do not overtighten

 

Yes, that’s what I was thinking; it has been covered on this forum previously.

[Steve Case 955]

8 hours ago, davebike said:

The issue with this is that the inner spacer (between the inner racesof the bearings) is not hat strong

Tyre centre gorrilla with air gun can dammage this spacer the bearings are now side loaded and WILL fail

Always add grease to spindle and into the bearing as much as possiable and do not overtighten

 

Way I heard it was the spacer doesn't fit, Italian Honda dealer made up a longer spacer to provide support for the inner races which he fitted to a mates NC750.

 

The mate had suffered 2 or 3 sets of rear wheel bearing collapse but has had none since.

[Steve Case 955]

Oh and I always use torque wrenches because even if uncalibrated they will be more accurate than guessing.

[DCTPaul 629]

8 hours ago, davebike said:

Tyre centre gorrilla with air gun...

'In the grip of a tyre fitters hand'... Budgie

[Steve Case 955]

I'm always dubious about letting car lads loose on my bikes or any bikes come to that, as the standard mantra seems to be if its tight use more force.

 

Never if its tight check for the hidden 8mm screw that can only be reached with 180 degree bendable tri fold fingers.

[dave 966]

My sump plug came out with no trouble at all today, I used a six sided 1/2'' drive socket, having read the thread a prayer was said before attempting the oil change on the DCT. 

Good quality Honda parts.

[splke 1,244]

So 150  miles in since oil change and the gearbox feels as bad as it did prior to the oil and filter change 

impossible to get Neutral with engine running, really shocked, i used same oil as i generally use and never had an issue.

The last interval was about 1100 miles and 12 months, only the last 2 months was this apparent prior to the change.

Any ideas to try  or is it time to part chop ? (only 12k on the thing its a 700s 2012)

I love the practicality of the Nc , as a commuter it is pretty hard to beat.

 

[Xactly 5,419]

1 hour ago, splke said:

So 150  miles in since oil change and the gearbox feels as bad as it did prior to the oil and filter change 

impossible to get Neutral with engine running, really shocked, i used same oil as i generally use and never had an issue.

The last interval was about 1100 miles and 12 months, only the last 2 months was this apparent prior to the change.

Any ideas to try  or is it time to part chop ? (only 12k on the thing its a 700s 2012)

I love the practicality of the Nc , as a commuter it is pretty hard to beat.

 

Sounds like a clutch issue to me - not properly disengaging.

[Jeffprince 4,921]

3 hours ago, splke said:

So 150  miles in since oil change and the gearbox feels as bad as it did prior to the oil and filter change 

impossible to get Neutral with engine running, really shocked, i used same oil as i generally use and never had an issue.

The last interval was about 1100 miles and 12 months, only the last 2 months was this apparent prior to the change.

Any ideas to try  or is it time to part chop ? (only 12k on the thing its a 700s 2012)

I love the practicality of the Nc , as a commuter it is pretty hard to beat.

 

Chain adjusted correctly? Found it made a real difference when finding neutral.

[splke 1,244]

On 08/04/2022 at 19:24, Xactly said:

Sounds like a clutch issue to me - not properly disengaging.

Thank you it was the clutch setting I had adjusted as it was so stiff. So got it set nicely now 

Thanks again

[jbkillie 17]

Just found this while searching, I have the same problem the nut was fitted by a gorilla or used a windy hammer. While searching for extractor tool they all seem to be 1/2 inch extractor would this fit. I know they are very similar but before I make purchase. I have tried all other suggestions mentioned with no joy. I've got new plug in post Cheers 

[Steve Case 955]

I had a problem with the front sprocket on my triumph had been fitted with a windy gun, no amount of leverage would losen it.

I hired an 18vdc impact driver for a day, it took 30s to remove the nut.

[Slowboy 20,505]

7 hours ago, Steve Case said:

I had a problem with the front sprocket on my triumph had been fitted with a windy gun, no amount of leverage would losen it.

I hired an 18vdc impact driver for a day, it took 30s to remove the nut.

My Daytona 1000 needed a 450nm windy gun on it. You’ve got to be careful you don’t start rotating if you’re the one hanging onto the other end. And yes, it came undone first go.

[Steve Case 955]

Nah too fat to rotate.

You are one of the few owners of the mythical 4 pot triumph.

Heard of em but never seen one.

[Slowboy 20,505]

11 hours ago, Steve Case said:

Nah too fat to rotate.

You are one of the few owners of the mythical 4 pot triumph.

Heard of em but never seen one.

Lovely it was, but too uncomfortable for me in the end.

[Steve Case 955]

Yup really narrow clip ons in a cafe race stylee.

Triumph luv em, i hate em. And superbike racers ditch them and use aftermarket wide clip ons for leverage.

[Johnnie Mototrans 2,766]

@Freeroader

 

When scrolling through the activity stream, I was confronted by this.

 

'NC700s Sump Plug

Lovely it was, but too uncomfortable for me in the end.'

 

I dont know whether to be shocked or disappointed by this obvious clickbait.