Battery question

[Potatoes 15]

Hi all. Just a quick quotation regarding the Yuassa YTX12-BS and Yuassa YTX14-BS batteries. 

 

Do either of them fit the 2018 750x? 

 

My battery was flat this morning and I'm guessing it was on its way out and last night's cold weather finished it off. In my flustered state this morning I didn't check to see which battery was already fitted so am unsure which one to get. I want to get it today after work but as I'm on the bus and short of time I won't be able to go home to check first. 

 

My local halfords have both in stock. 

[Potatoes 15]

Just an extra question, if both of them do fit what is the difference between them? The 12 is about £25 cheaper. 

[Viator 1,526]

The YTX14 is a larger capacity battery, it is also 15mm taller

YTX12-BS (yuasa.co.uk) (130MM HIGH)

YTX14-BS (yuasa.co.uk) (145MM HIGH)

Looking at Fowlers parts site Honda NC750X ABS 2018 BATTERY supplied next day (UK only) by Fowlers Parts they list a YTZ14S (yuasa.co.uk) (110MM HIGH)

My NC is a 2022 so not much help to measure that, sorry.

 

 

[jeremyr62 2,560]

As an option you could buy the smaller form factor battery YTX12-BS as a LiFePO4 (lithium) alternative. It will have more than enough capacity and cold cranking amps to turn the engine over. I bought one about 5-6 years ago and I move it around and use it in all my bikes, including a VFR1200 and a GSXR1000. It has lasted far better than the old lead acid types. 

[Potatoes 15]

Thank you both for the replies. The one from fowlers is more expensive than I'd like to spend ideally. I've always had Yuassa on different bikes and they've worked well. If the 12 fits and is suitable then I may as well go for that. 

[Viator 1,526]

12 minutes ago, Potatoes said:

Thank you both for the replies. The one from fowlers is more expensive than I'd like to spend ideally. I've always had Yuassa on different bikes and they've worked well. If the 12 fits and is suitable then I may as well go for that. 

Just check that they list the YTX12-BS for your reg as it is 20mm taller than the one Fowlers recommend Motorcycle Batteries - Yuasa & Shido (halfords.com)

Motobatt are very good as well Motobatt » Home 

[fred_jb 10,265]

When looking for a higher capacity battery for my Triumph (alarm and tracker seem to run it down quite quickly when stood) I ended up with one which at the time I seem to remember appeared to be standard on the NC.  This was the Yausa YTZ14S which I bought for £78.   There was a very similar but cheaper one available, but when I looked into the specs it appeared that the range of mounting angles allowed was much less on the cheaper one, and in the Triumph the battery is canted over quite far so I went for the more expensive one.

[fred_jb 10,265]

1 hour ago, jeremyr62 said:

As an option you could buy the smaller form factor battery YTX12-BS as a LiFePO4 (lithium) alternative. It will have more than enough capacity and cold cranking amps to turn the engine over. I bought one about 5-6 years ago and I move it around and use it in all my bikes, including a VFR1200 and a GSXR1000. It has lasted far better than the old lead acid types. 

 

Lithium batteries are great and much lighter than lead acid ones, but one thing to be aware of is that although they have superior cranking power they are generally much lower in total Amp hour capacity.  This matters if you have stuff like alarms and trackers which can slowly drain the battery while the bike is parked.   I had to revert back to lead acid for this reason. 

[Potatoes 15]

7 minutes ago, fred_jb said:

When looking for a higher capacity battery for my Triumph (alarm and tracker seem to run it down quite quickly when stood) I ended up with one which at the time I seem to remember appeared to be standard on the NC.  This was the Yausa YTZ14S which I bought for £78.   There was a very similar but cheaper one available, but when I looked into the specs it appeared that the range of mounting angles allowed was much less on the cheaper one, and in the Triumph the battery is canted over quite far so I went for the more expensive one.

Thank you for that. I think that one looks right.  Sportsbikeshop sell a battery by Dynavolt DTZ14S-C for £50 which they say fits the NC and is the equivalent of the YTZ14S. That looks a bit too cheap to be trusted maybe. 

 

 

[fred_jb 10,265]

8 minutes ago, Potatoes said:

Thank you for that. I think that one looks right.  Sportsbikeshop sell a battery by Dynavolt DTZ14S-C for £50 which they say fits the NC and is the equivalent of the YTZ14S. That looks a bit too cheap to be trusted maybe. 

 

 

Dynavolt are made in China and Yuasa are apparently made in Australia if avoiding Chinese stuff is a factor in the decision.  Having said that, Sportsbikeshop are an excellent company who will immediately replace anything you are not happy with.  The Yausa is expensive at Halfords, and a bit cheaper from Tayna, but not much in it by the time you pay for postage.

[splke 1,244]

3 minutes ago, fred_jb said:

Dynavolt are made in China and Yuasa are apparently made in Australia if avoiding Chinese stuff is a factor in the decision.  Having said that, Sportsbikeshop are an excellent company who will immediately replace anything you are not happy with.  The Yausa is expensive at Halfords, and a bit cheaper from Tayna, but not much in it by the time you pay for postage.

5 quid off if you join halfords mc online 

https://www.halfords.com/on/demandware.store/Sites-halfords-uk-Site/en_GB/Login-Registration?accountType=motoringClubFree

 

Edited October 16, 2023 by splke

[Potatoes 15]

Just called my Honda dealer and asked them for a cost to supply and fit me battery. They said £130 and, as Fred said, the battery would be Yuasa YTZ14S. 

I've never actually put a new battery on my bike but I'm not paying that so I'll fit it myself. 

 

 

[fred_jb 10,265]

1 minute ago, Potatoes said:

Just called my Honda dealer and asked them for a cost to supply and fit me battery. They said £130 and, as Fred said, the battery would be Yuasa YTZ14S. 

I've never actually put a new battery on my bike but I'm not paying that so I'll fit it myself. 

 

 

I'm sure you will find plenty of guides online.  The golden rule seems to be remove the negative lead first, then positive, and then do the reverse when reconnecting - so positive first and negative last.  I believe this is to minimise the possibility of shorting the positive terminal to some metalwork on the bike which could be nasty if that was still connected to the battery negative.

[jeremyr62 2,560]

 

38 minutes ago, fred_jb said:

 

Lithium batteries are great and much lighter than lead acid ones, but one thing to be aware of is that although they have superior cranking power they are generally much lower in total Amp hour capacity.  This matters if you have stuff like alarms and trackers which can slowly drain the battery while the bike is parked.   I had to revert back to lead acid for this reason. 

So it would appear. My JMT LiFePO4 has capacity 4Ah and the lead acid is about 13Ah. Can't say I've ever noticed but I take the battery out whenever the bikes are sat.

[jeremyr62 2,560]

I managed to connect my LiFePO4 battery my GSXR1000 the wrong way round once. Blue sparks and the tacho went into overdrive. Thankfully the main fuse did it's job and everything was OK. 

[fred_jb 10,265]

10 minutes ago, jeremyr62 said:

 

So it would appear. My JMT LiFePO4 has capacity 4Ah and the lead acid is about 13Ah. Can't say I've ever noticed but I take the battery out whenever the bikes are sat.

 

Yes, I searched in vain for a Lithium with higher capacity.  The problem I have is that when we are away and the bike is left in the garage at home with the tracker and alarm on it will start to run down the battery and I don't like to leave it on the charger while there is nobody at home as it could be a fire risk.  The tracker sends me an alert once the bike battery gets down to a pre-determined level, which I currently have set to 11.7 Volts.  We were recently away and I got the alert on the 11th day, but we were back the following day and of course it wasn't fully flat so no problem.  However, it would be more of an issue with a Lithium battery with only about 1/3rd the capacity.

 

Edited October 16, 2023 by fred_jb

[jeremyr62 2,560]

Get a car battery and jump leads?

[fred_jb 10,265]

14 minutes ago, jeremyr62 said:

Get a car battery and jump leads?

 

Actually that's a very good idea!  I might well do that if we go off for a multi-week trip in the new camper van, but would probably connect it via the charging port I fitted to the bike to avoid having exposed terminals and jump leads.  I have a large capacity 70Ah battery I erroneously replaced on the previous camper when it turned out that the problem was due to a faulty battery management module on the vehicle, so could use that.

 

Edited October 16, 2023 by fred_jb

[listener 11,188]

1 hour ago, jeremyr62 said:

I managed to connect my LiFePO4 battery my GSXR1000 the wrong way round once. Blue sparks and the tacho went into overdrive. Thankfully the main fuse did it's job and everything was OK. 

 

You clumsy git! 

 

[jeremyr62 2,560]

Frying tonight!

[Xactly 5,428]

I have one of those small starter packs with a lithium battery in it. Good for starting up to 2 litre petrol engines. Handy also for mobile phone charging etc. I find this easier to use access-wise than two huge car jump leads and way easier to pack on a bike. Mine is a Clarkes one but Halfords sell them.

As has been said, when replacing a battery always remove -ve first then +ve. Reverse to refit. It is to prevent eg screwdriver or spanner shorting to the frame. Not good but better than an Australian connection….

[Foxy 4,346]

2 hours ago, listener said:

 

You clumsy git! 

 

 

Off topic maybe but this picture reminds me of an occasion years ago when on a boozy night out I managed to connect a friend to a farmers electric fence. It certainly woke him up.

[VinnyB 700]

Many years ago I managed to solidly weld a screwdriver to my CX500 frame while I was removing the battery terminals. I tend to be a bit more careful nowadays.

Edited October 16, 2023 by VinnyB

[Taileron 600]

1 hour ago, VinnyB said:

Many years ago I managed to solidly weld a screwdriver to my CX500 frame while I was removing the battery terminals. I tend to be a bit more careful nowadays.

My mate bought a Talbot Solara in the 90’s for about £150. We were ragging it down some country lanes (like you do in your early 20’s and brain dead) and he said “check out how good the brakes are” slammed on the anchors… they were fantastic….car grinds to a halt…no power, nothing. After about half an hour of head scratching we surmised it must be a flat battery, so we went looking….couldn't find it. After another 1/2 hour we found it……100 meters down the road in the hedge still attached to the battery mount that had dropped off during the brake test.

[baldric 844]

23 hours ago, fred_jb said:

 

Lithium batteries are great and much lighter than lead acid ones, but one thing to be aware of is that although they have superior cranking power they are generally much lower in total Amp hour capacity.  This matters if you have stuff like alarms and trackers which can slowly drain the battery while the bike is parked.   I had to revert back to lead acid for this reason. 

Also bear in mind that if you currently (sorry) have an optimate or oxford optimser for your lead acid battery it probably can't be used on the Lithium replacement. The charging rate is too high. there is a good guide at https://bikerrated.com/gear/maintenance/best-lithium-motorcycle-battery-charger/