Brake Pads need replacing - What to buy?

[Guest Blimmer2007]

Hi all,

 

Have a 2013 NC700S on 13k miles and its time to change the pads!!!

 

Stealer has quoted me an extortionate price for changing them and looking around the forum seems quite a simple job (done countless car brakes in the past!!!).

 

Just not sure of the best pads to buy and where to buy them!  Mine is the ABS version and is used every day for a 60 mile round trip commute.

 

Any advice welcome.

 

Have also been advised that chain and sprocket are imminently doomed but as I dont have the tools for chain riveting I am thinking I will leave this to the stealer (£260), thoughts?  (If I get this done I am thinking of an oiler too, what is the best one to get?)

 

Blimmer

[bazza 3,629]

Hi all,

 

Have a 2013 NC700S on 13k miles and its time to change the pads!!!

 

Stealer has quoted me an extortionate price for changing them and looking around the forum seems quite a simple job (done countless car brakes in the past!!!).

 

Just not sure of the best pads to buy and where to buy them!  Mine is the ABS version and is used every day for a 60 mile round trip commute.

 

Any advice welcome.

 

Have also been advised that chain and sprocket are imminently doomed but as I dont have the tools for chain riveting I am thinking I will leave this to the stealer (£260), thoughts?  (If I get this done I am thinking of an oiler too, what is the best one to get?)

 

Can't tell you about the pads(yet) but rivetting a link onto a chain is a FUN job -see u tube for how to do it but you basicly pead over the soft rivet - the trick is compressing the link which can be a nightmare without a special tool. Its one of those tools you use every couple of years -maybe an ideal tool for the Forum to own, Ted,  and hire out -ops sorry being commercial again!

[Dave H 2,022]

Brakes & tyres are things I never scrimp on for obvious reasons.  I look for the best quality then try to find them at the cheapest price.

 

13K seems a bit soon but if they're doing the job to your satisfaction then I'd replace with like.

[Trev 18,762]

Hi all,

 

Have a 2013 NC700S on 13k miles and its time to change the pads!!!

 

Stealer has quoted me an extortionate price for changing them and looking around the forum seems quite a simple job (done countless car brakes in the past!!!).

 

Just not sure of the best pads to buy and where to buy them!  Mine is the ABS version and is used every day for a 60 mile round trip commute.

 

Any advice welcome.

 

Have also been advised that chain and sprocket are imminently doomed but as I dont have the tools for chain riveting I am thinking I will leave this to the stealer (£260), thoughts?  (If I get this done I am thinking of an oiler too, what is the best one to get?)

 

Blimmer

 

My front pads need changing at just over 11k, but I think reasonable given  linked brakes and single disc account, I had 10k out of my GSXR11 front pads and MT03 will need a set over the winter after about the same miles

[Guest Blimmer2007]

Brakes & tyres are things I never scrimp on for obvious reasons.  I look for the best quality then try to find them at the cheapest price.

 

13K seems a bit soon but if they're doing the job to your satisfaction then I'd replace with like.

 

Actually checked on the checklist given to me by the dealer and the front pads will need replacing in 3000 miles, the rears in 1500!!!  Will wait a while then!!!

 

Where is the best place to get Honda Pads from? (found one set on "that auction site")

 

Think the chain and sprocket replacement will be better with the Stealer as the tools are nearly £100 on their own, will wait till out of warranty to invest i feel!!!

 

On a Stealer note, have been using Bridge Honda in Exeter (where I bought the bike) but does anyone know of anywhere around me (Live in Somerset, work in Bristol) that may be cheaper/better?? (Fowlers appears to be more expensive!!!)

[Guest robin]

Buy EBC Double HH or Bendix Pads for brakes.   Do them yourself.  If you can do the car pads then the bike's will be easy.

 

You could put a  chain in with no split link, Just a continuous chain but you will probably need to take the swing arm out then>>><<<

 

Try FJ Owners Club, Ivy Cottage, Cromhall, Wotton-U-Edge, Glos GL12 8AR ; Tel 01454 299325 ; doc@fjclub.co.uk  They do other makes too/As well.

 

J14 M5.   Ask for Peg.

Edited October 6, 2014 by robin

[chris 357]

I just bought an Ognibene chain & sprocket kit with a chain riveting tool on e-bay for about GBP 100 delivered. All you need above that is a grinding tool to take the heads off of a couple of rivets and a simple chain breaker tool. You should be able to get chain & sprocket kit and a dremel and a chain breaker for less than 260. You'll need to buy or borrow a decent torque wrench & socket set to do the job. The blurb says Ognibene have worked for years with DID and are good quality - the kit looks good but I'll find out when I fit it & see how it performs.

 

For brake pads I've seen too many horror stories from aftermarket parts and stick to genuine nowadays. I've got about 13,500km on my bike now and the pads are still looking good  - but the chain is starting to stretch more quickly so likely on it's way out. I checked brakes & adjusted chain tension at the weekend, will see how quickly the chain slack increase now as I noted mileage to have a reference.

 

Aside from e-bay the NC700 shop is also a decent source for parts.

[Guest EasyTiger]

Blimmer - local dealer costs using the 16,000 mile service as an example:

 

12/9/14. Quotes for 16,000 mile service by Honda dealers on 2012 X DCT:

 

Fowlers, Bristol.                 £398.00               Service Desk. £298 + £100 more if valves need adjusting, as that's a two-hour job". Valves are in the 16,000 spec.

Thunder Road, Bridgend.  £370.65               Gavin - Valves included.

Thunder Road, Cwmbran. £350.39               Ryan - "As it's a four-hour job. Includes change of brake fluid, air filter, oil and clutch filters. Valves included."

Bransons, Yeovil.               £350.00               André - "Includes all fluids, filters, valve clearances."

Bransons, Gloucester.       £280.00               Colin  - (£250 for X including valves, £280 includes DCT clutch filter change, ).

 

I use an independent, Rob Wareham at RJ Motorcycles on Locking's Knightcott Industrial Estate between Weston and Banwell. BS29 6JN. 01934 824824

He lets me watch the service, shows me the wear on pads, says if they need replacing or not etc. and makes useful suggestions and improvements.

Much cheaper - you can even bring the correct Honda parts from Fowlers spares dept.

 

He fitted my Ognibene DID X-Ring chain and sprockets from the kit. (Honda parts alone £80 more).

(@Chris - Warning! The rubber damper on the front sprocket makes it seem a tight fit - chain needs pulling on under worrying tension!)

[chris 357]

@EasyTiger - thanks for the tip, I'll bear it in mind when I get round to the job.

[embee 7,288]

If you're confident in doing basic mechanics, then consider getting a factory rivetted chain ("endless") and drop the swingarm out as Robin suggests. This is much much easier if you have a centrestand. Worth considering buying a centrestand anyway if you don't have one, the cost will be offset by being able to change the chain/sprockets yourself and make maintenance easier.

 

I've had the swingarm out of my Integra and it's easy peasy, no special tools required and no struggles with anything, just remove the wheel, undo the suspension links, undo the swingarm pivot bolt/nut and drop it out. Undo the gearbox sprocket centre bolt before removing the chain, it's not particularly tight and the sprocket simply slides off, no puller required.

 

That's definitely what I will do if I need to replace the chain again.

 

I fitted a DID VX2 chain and very happy with it so far, much smoother than the OE chain was. Try Wemoto, Busters or M&P for prices, all reliable outfits, cross-check their own websites vs their "auction site" shops, sometimes prices vary.

 

I use a PD Oiler, but many others are very happy with Tutoro chain oilers at somewhat lower cost, definitely worth using an oiler.

Edited October 6, 2014 by embee

[Guest robson]

Hi all,

 

Have a 2013 NC700S on 13k miles and its time to change the pads!!!

 

 

so early? looks like you use brakes a lot, meaning riding very fast

[Guest Peterpoddy]

I bought a reasonable quality chain splitting/joining kit about 16 years ago. It's saved way, way more money than I ever imagined it would. Probably £500-£1000 over that time. Honda quoted me £260 fitted for chain and sprockets. I can save £160 on that when it's time, and end up with a better DID chain at the same time.

I've done mechanics on vehicles for years, and it's always worth buying the correct tools and doing it yourself. Not only that but it's satisfying and I'm more confident in my own skills to be honest. The only thing I leave to the pros is electronics (injection etc) and valve clearances. I'm crap at those!

[nelmo 563]

I've only changed a chain once and it was a right pain.

The front sprocket nut had been done up at a garage with an air wrench and I couldn't get the damn thing off, even using my huge torque wrench and an extension pole. I had to ride round to a local garage, get them to loosen the nut and then ride home again (very slowly).

I stupidly bought a second-hand chain tool off the bay which arrived missing the widget needed to push the link out, so I had to hacksaw the chain off - that took 30 minutes alone

The next time, I took the bike to a local bike garage - they charged me one hours labour (£40) to fit the chain and sprockets I bought separately - much easier.

[Guest Blimmer2007]

Thanks all for the info, very useful and helpful!!!!!

 

Will definitely do the brakes myself, still have a few more miles in them so will get the bits ordered and ready!!

 

Will look into getting the chain tool etc., do fancy doing it myself but may well buy the parts and get one of the places mentioned above to fit this time, where I can watch and get some advice for future ref!!!!

 

Part of my issue is finding a nice warm dry garage to work in, have to do most of the work in the back garden and its starting to get a bit chilly!!!  Must be getting old!!!!

 

Blimmer

[chris 357]

Blimmer - local dealer costs using the 16,000 mile service as an example:

 

12/9/14. Quotes for 16,000 mile service by Honda dealers on 2012 X DCT:

 

Fowlers, Bristol.                 £398.00               Service Desk. £298 + £100 more if valves need adjusting, as that's a two-hour job". Valves are in the 16,000 spec.

Thunder Road, Bridgend.  £370.65               Gavin - Valves included.

Thunder Road, Cwmbran. £350.39               Ryan - "As it's a four-hour job. Includes change of brake fluid, air filter, oil and clutch filters. Valves included."

Bransons, Yeovil.               £350.00               André - "Includes all fluids, filters, valve clearances."

Bransons, Gloucester.       £280.00               Colin  - (£250 for X including valves, £280 includes DCT clutch filter change, ).

 

I use an independent, Rob Wareham at RJ Motorcycles on Locking's Knightcott Industrial Estate between Weston and Banwell. BS29 6JN. 01934 824824

He lets me watch the service, shows me the wear on pads, says if they need replacing or not etc. and makes useful suggestions and improvements.

Much cheaper - you can even bring the correct Honda parts from Fowlers spares dept.

 

He fitted my Ognibene DID X-Ring chain and sprockets from the kit. (Honda parts alone £80 more).

(@Chris - Warning! The rubber damper on the front sprocket makes it seem a tight fit - chain needs pulling on under worrying tension!)

I got round to changing the chain today. The hardest job was getting the axle out of the back wheel. After the struggle to get it off I was worried I might struggle to get the wheel back in place but it went very easily, I grabbed a box and wedged that under the wheel whilst I lined everything up and the axle went in without fuss.

 

The chain went on fairly easily - it was just a matter of getting a decent hold on both ends of the chain to be able to slide the master link into place. Maybe your mechanic hadn't quite taken all the slack off the chain adjusters.

 

At least I remembered to crack the sprocket nuts & bolt before splitting the old chain so swapping the sprockets over was a doddle.

 

I even got round to fitting the Tutoro automatic oiler that's been sitting in a drawer for over 18 months, looking forward to see how it works now - although probably won't have much time to try it out before the snows come, first snowfall is forecast for Wednesday according to one of the neighbours.

[Rev Ken 6,343]

I got round to changing the chain today. The hardest job was getting the axle out of the back wheel. After the struggle to get it off I was worried I might struggle to get the wheel back in place but it went very easily, I grabbed a box and wedged that under the wheel whilst I lined everything up and the axle went in without fuss.

 

The chain went on fairly easily - it was just a matter of getting a decent hold on both ends of the chain to be able to slide the master link into place. Maybe your mechanic hadn't quite taken all the slack off the chain adjusters.

 

At least I remembered to crack the sprocket nuts & bolt before splitting the old chain so swapping the sprockets over was a doddle.

 

I even got round to fitting the Tutoro automatic oiler that's been sitting in a drawer for over 18 months, looking forward to see how it works now - although probably won't have much time to try it out before the snows come, first snowfall is forecast for Wednesday according to one of the neighbours.

I'm a little confused - with a master link was it necessary to take the wheel off?

[chris 357]

I'm a little confused - with a master link was it necessary to take the wheel off?

I don't know how to get the sprocket off the rear wheel any other way. I prefer to swap chain and sprockets at the same time even though the sprockets didn't show any visible wear. I could have explained that more clearly I guess

[DB1965 224]

Think you missed the bit about sprockets    ken

[JONO49 201]

I will always fit Brembo pads now I think these are what's needed, and dont welch at the price these will transform your bike!

 

https://www.louis-moto.co.uk/rund-ums-motorrad/bike-datenbank/honda-nc-750-x/rc72/3165?brand=648&price=&page=1#article_list

 

Yep here's a better link........https://www.louis-moto.co.uk/artikel/brembo-brake-pads-sinter-fuer-honda-nc-750-x/10047600?filter_bike_id=3165&list=16914199

Edited October 28, 2014 by JONO49

[Guest scrumpymike]

Blimmer, re choice of dealer, I use and would recommend Branson's in Yeovil. They may not be the cheapest, but they're certainly not the dearest and their service to me has been excellent. I'm going to pm you about Bridge!!

[DB1965 224]

.

Edited October 29, 2014 by DB1965

[sleepyguitarman 77]

Heck, I'm approaching 20k and pads still have plenty of meat on them, front and rear.

I don't think I'm going fast enough!

[kharli 100]

cheepest pads work fine for me ,,id go for soft pads as discs wear fast and are expensive . It seems everyone has there favourite though but again i would say cleanliness and free pistons make loads more difference than pad type.

[fred_jb 10,265]

I replaced my Honda pads with EBC HH types when my rear brake started to become ineffective.  The original pads were not worn, but looked like they had had away too much grease put on the backs at the 600 mile service and I think it had got onto the pads.

 

Very pleased with the EBC pads.

 

Fred

[dazznutts 167]

Just a query with brake pads -

I replaced my front ones today with a make called Goldfren all fitted ok.

Just as i was about to throw my old pads in the bin i noticed on one the pads a backing plate - should this of been put back on the new pad

or is this just a thing with honda oem pads