Headlight

[911767 148]

Looks to be too many bits there for my liking and adding an extra box of tricks to cure the 'light out' business doesn't fill me with confidence. I'd have thought that several years into LED lighting there'd be a direct replacement bulb that works as it should...................I see lots of late model 50cc scooters running around with nice bright LED headlamp(s), it can't be too hard can it?

 

Bike manufacturers seem slow on the LED uptake. I liked that LED option on those KTM's (?) the Hairy Bikers rode recently, the same style would suit the 750X but as on the KTM it needs to be switchable, that is, headlamp off/on.

[CFB 4,601]

Laslo, I agree, LED is the way to go.

It will come eventually but I guess budget bikes like the NC will be a long way down the queue.

Anyway, been out on it tonight.

Unlit country lanes, A roads and unlit dual carriageway.

High beam gives much more light and the definition of the beam is better.

I have had to adjust the headlight down a bit though,

I give the kit 8-10 purely due to the issues with fitting.

[nabrU 2,294]

Clive,

I'm tempted to buy this kit however I have two questions:

- What colour temperature should I choose? I'm aiming at 5000k.

- Have you noticed any issues with increased heat from headlight assembly?

Edited October 20, 2015 by Radarman

[fred_jb 10,265]

Clive,

I'm tempted to buy this kit however I have two questions:

- What colour temperature should I choose? I'm aiming at 5000k.

- Have you noticed any issues with increased heat from headlight assembly?

Same here - and I was thinking 5000k.   I saw some comment either on the supplier's web site or another similar one that implied that the 5000k had the greatest light output.

 

Fred

 

PS:  Fitted some auxiliary lights yesterday and first ride with them today it was very noticeable that cars were noticing me more - I've never had so many instances of cars moving over to the left hand lane promptly to let me pass on a dual carriageway, even when there were slower vehicles ahead in the left lane.    Just makes the headlight look very yellow and dim in comparison - hence the interest in a replacement.

Edited October 20, 2015 by fred_jb

[JM750XDE 165]

I added the Phillips 140% brighter H4 bulb and it's a lot better than standard. 2 for £15 off of that auction site - high beam is ridiculously bright, would recommend to all.

Takes 2 minutes to swap out the bulb.

[nabrU 2,294]

 Just makes the headlight look very yellow and dim in comparison - hence the interest in a replacement.

 

Same here when I stop behind the car and see my headlight and LEDs reflection

 

Additional thing with aux light is all road signs appear more reflective.

[Rocker66 34,456]

Recently I had to filter for several miles on the M20 when it was virtually at a standstill due to an overturned artic.. I found that drivers made it far easier for me than was the case before I had LED aux lights

[CFB 4,601]

Hubert, Fred, 5000k is what I have.

It's the temperature that almost all car manufacturers use and I can see why.

White light and better illumination.

Halogen is 4300k and too yellow. 6000k is much too blue and actually gives less useable light than halogen!

No apparent issues with additional heat on the lens. It seems about the same temp as with the OE bulb.

Talking of aux lights, I'm in the process of fitting a pair of those micro LED jobs from the DLR thread to go with it.

With a little Fred twist

[fred_jb 10,265]

Hubert, Fred, 5000k is what I have.

It's the temperature that almost all car manufacturers use and I can see why.

White light and better illumination.

Halogen is 4300k and too yellow. 6000k is much too blue and actually gives less useable light than halogen!

No apparent issues with additional heat on the lens. It seems about the same temp as with the OE bulb.

Talking of aux lights, I'm in the process of fitting a pair of those micro LED jobs from the DLR thread to go with it.

With a little Fred twist

I'm intrigued as to what that could mean - be sure to post some photos when done!

 

Fred

[CFB 4,601]

Here ya go Fred...

All done and working

I think they will be too bright in the dark so......

Fitted a 2 position switch with a resistor across one of them to give this if required....

Waterproof switch fitted in the left black top panel just behind the join.

[fred_jb 10,265]

Here ya go Fred...

All done and working

I think they will be too bright in the dark so......

Fitted a 2 position switch with a resistor across one of them to give this if required....

Waterproof switch fitted in the left black top panel just behind the join.

Looks good Clive, and a switchable resistor is a good idea for daytime/night time running.   Might think about that for mine, though I had to go out the other morning while it was still dark and the lights didn't seem excessive.  I have mine angled down slightly, so they help light up the road but hopefully are not dazzling oncoming traffic.

 

Fred

[CFB 4,601]

Not set them up properly yet but do think they will have to be angled down and out.

I'm pleased with the way all the lights have turned out.

Had a spare LED sidelight in the garage so put that in at the same time, while doing the headlight.

Now, if I could find a set of crosstourer indicators for a good price I'll be all LED.

[fred_jb 10,265]

Not set them up properly yet but do think they will have to be angled down and out.

I'm pleased with the way all the lights have turned out.

Had a spare LED sidelight in the garage so put that in at the same time, while doing the headlight.

Now, if I could find a set of crosstourer indicators for a good price I'll be all LED.I

I believe you will need to replace the indicator relay if you want to run LED indicators.  It seems the one on the NC is the old fashioned type that use the bulb resistance as part of the timing circuit, and they flash too quickly with LEDs.   You can get LED compatible ones from other Honda models on fleabay - just need to make sure they have the same connector as the NC one.

 

Fred

[CFB 4,601]

Fred, I'm not sure?

When I was fiddling, I had the left front disconnected and they were flashing at the correct rate.

I'm not going to take that panel off again to check.

It was a complete pain in the derrier to refit!

[kharli 100]

www.lightmare.org/

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[embee 7,288]

Modern indi relays use an electronic timer for flash rate which is not dependant on current per se, which is how the old bimetal strip items worked. However they use the load current sensing to determine whether all lamps are functioning, if the current is significantly less than it should be the flash rate is stitched to a fast rate to make the user aware there is a fault. This is deliberately engineered in.

Relays for led lamps don't have this function, working on the principle that LEDs don't fail.

[fred_jb 10,265]

Modern indi relays use an electronic timer for flash rate which is not dependant on current per se, which is how the old bimetal strip items worked. However they use the load current sensing to determine whether all lamps are functioning, if the current is significantly less than it should be the flash rate is stitched to a fast rate to make the user aware there is a fault. This is deliberately engineered in.

Relays for led lamps don't have this function, working on the principle that LEDs don't fail.

Ahh - that explains it!   I did find it hard to accept that the old style timing circuit was still being used.  A bit odd that Clive's were apparently still flashing at the correct rate with one bulb disconnected, whatever the relay type, unless they have started fitting the LED type ones to the NC.

 

There are quite a few LED compatible ones on fleabay if needed - just a question of getting one with the correct 4 pin connector I think.

 

Fred