Stalling NC750 DCT

[embee 7,288]

1 hour ago, noj said:

…..What I did fail to tell you is …..

 

 

I think you may have answered your own question. Keep us informed, always useful to know what the outcome is.

[noj 365]

Well, I'm thinking if I take off the battery from the wife's CBF500F (16 PLATE) and starts and performs impeccably and shove it on mine and see if that makes a difference I will then know if it is the battery and get one ordered. 

If not, then it must be sumat else. 

 

Ah, just fo out its not powerful enough. 

It's the YTZ10S on hers. 190 cca

 

 

Edited January 16, 2020 by noj

[jeremyr62 2,560]

I would have thought any decent sized battery would be good enough to diagnose your issue. If the bike is started and warmed up, a smaller battery will re-start it fine.

[embee 7,288]

1 hour ago, noj said:

Well...

Ah, just fo out its not powerful enough. 

It's the YTZ10S on hers. 190 cca

 

It'll be absolutely fine for a test. My Deauville came fitted with a YTZ10S originally, although it should have had the 12 or 14. It lived with that for about 5yrs.

[noj 365]

I had a  Deauville before this one, great bike but got to heavy to push and pull around, thats why I got rid.

Ive just this min gone to the bike and realised I hadnt plugged in the charger yesterday, put key and it started first click.

Strange, its always drained the battery overnight if I forgot to plug it in.

 

On tick over though it did sound a bit lumpy for a couple of mins and the rev slider was going from 1000 to 1100 now and again.

It eventually settled at around the 950 ish mark or maybe just a bit higher.

 

Ill test the voltage on the battery this afternoon.

whats the best procedure?

 

 

 

 

 

[noj 365]

Ok, just tested battery and engine not running----------------12.58

Engine running --------------------------------------------------------------- 14.20

umm what does that tell me?

 

Also trying to do a reset following this advice.

 

 Get aboard the bike and start the motor.

- With the transmission key in N for neutral, switch-off the ignition to stop the motor.

- With the ignition off, press AND HOLD the switch into ‘D’.

- Switch the ignition on but DON’T START THE MOTOR.

- Wait until you see in the dashboard display the yellow symbol for the motor disappearing, then let go of the D key that you've been pressing.

- Now the tricky bit: as fast as you can, press the sequence:

D D N D N.

- In the dashboard display, BOTH the letters D and S should appear.

- Turn on the motor, but don’t touch the throttle.

- After a few seconds, the letters D and S extinguish.

- Select “N” and turn off the ignition key. Done..

 

Did nothing at all, should I disconnect the battery and leave it for a few mins and try again?

 

[jeremyr62 2,560]

Which battery? A known good one or the suspect?

All those voltages say is your alternator seems to be working OK.

[noj 365]

Suspect one. 

First reading is with the bike switched off.

Second one, engine running. 

Edited January 16, 2020 by noj

[jeremyr62 2,560]

If I were you I would just swap batteries and go for a ride.

[noj 365]

Might just do that, but don't tell my wife. 

What's written in here stays in here, 😉 😉 

[noj 365]

Ummm, before I was going to swap out the battery I thought I would do the reset thing above. 

Disconnected the battery, had a brew came back and followed the instructions or in my case, distructions. 

I've now got a reading on the dash with the letters D and S permanently showing and the bike is running like a bag of shite on tickover.. 

Oh eck. 

 

OK, edit. 

Just do the reset again and no D and S. 

But bike is still running rough. 

Time to swap battery. 

Edited January 16, 2020 by noj

[poldark 1,512]

Reset only relates to DCT operation, nothing to do with engine performance.

[noj 365]

Cheers Poldark.

Yeh, seems like a fuel issue or plug issue or plug lead issue, seems to drop from two cylinders to one then back again.

Not had chance to ride it yet though.

 

[embee 7,288]

Have you actually swapped the batteries yet? Sound like you're still using the "suspect" one. Don't waste time trying other stuff until you have at least tried it with a known good battery. It's always surprising just how much influence a duff battery can have, some machines just don't like it. Back in the day quite a few cars with early level engine management systems were really sensitive to this, I "fixed" several for friends/aquaintances just by fitting new batteries.

 

As Jeremy says, it appears the charging system is very probably working fine.

[noj 365]

I did try the wife's CBF500F battery but I simply couldn't get the connectors on so I gave up.. 

I will order a new one, probably the same make as came with the bike. 

 

[DCTPaul 629]

Yuasa YTZ14S: https://www.halfords.com/motoring/motorcycling/motorcycle-batteries/yuasa-ytz14s-high-performance-powersport-motorcycle-battery - £102

I try to buy batteries face to face from a shop rather than on line..

Keep the recipt safe as often G'teed for several years...

Easier return if it goes faulty..

Edited January 16, 2020 by DCTPaul

[noj 365]

They really know how to pull yer kecks down and spank yer ass don't they. 

Priced the very same battery earlier from a local bike repair shop near Bolton. 

72 quid, gona pick it up tomorrow. 

Thanks for the heads up though Paul. 

Edited January 16, 2020 by noj

[noj 365]

OK peeps, said battery bought fully charged it overnight on trickle charger, fitted, and........... 

Same problem. 

Incifently, I rode the bike the long way round when I went to pick up the battery, it was an Interesting ride to say the least. 

Sometimes at the higher end of the rev range I could feel the engine kinda missing and spotted the rev counter dropping by about 200 revs then returning to normal. 

This was in all six gears. 

At traffic lights when the green light came on the engine did struggle as I pulled away then settled down but within 30 seconds or there abouts it started to struggle. 

The journey to and back from the shop I included a motorway blast and purposely used MT and held it in each gear to around 5500 ish revs. 

On arriving home I put the bike away and put the battery on the trickle charger. 

Day after, put the new battery on and crossed my fingers. 

Alas, no difference. 

 

Sorry for the long winded post but wanted to try and explain exactly what I have tried to do to rectify this problem. 

Oh, I put a splash of redex in the tank, I know some say it snake oil but it won't do it any harm. 

 

[pjm 6,041]

Any rodent potential in the garage? Little buggers get everywhere and have been known to get in and nibble on wiring. What about checking the Earth point where a large number of the wires go. The other notorious source of many mysterious issues has always been the side stand switch. 

[noj 365]

Thanks pjm. 

I will check for rodent potential and also check side stand. 

When brand new I smothered the side stand spring and components with heavy duty grease for protection. 

[embee 7,288]

Sounds rather like dropping a cylinder intermittently. If so, the most likely candidates are HT leads/plug caps, possibly coils, vaguely possibly spark plugs but probably the least likely for that type of fault.

First thing before anything else is to take the spark plugs out, see what they look like (should be clean dusty white/brown), check the gaps (1.1mm from memory, but check this) and refit making absolutely sure the caps are fitted correctly. It's quite easy to get the caps not quite on right, I've done it myself and it gave hesitancy and slight stuttering.

 

Get some de-watering spray (WD40 will do, Duck Oil etc) and give the HT leads and caps a spray, go right up to the coils if you can get that far.

[noj 365]

Thanks embee. 

I forgot to mention that I checked the plugs yesterday and they SEEM fine, exactly as you discribed. 

Both caps were nice and tight having never been taken off before. 

Ive got some WD40 electric contact cleaner spray stuff so will try and clean off the HT leads. 

 

[kayz1 2,928]

Have you run it up yet in the dark so as to see any stray sparky things going where they should not be going?

[noj 365]

18 minutes ago, kayz1 said:

Have you run it up yet in the dark so as to see any stray sparky things going where they should not be going?

 

Funnily enough yep, I did this yesterday, the fact that it is pitch black in the garage even in the day time helps even though the headlamp is on all the time, I just threw a towel over the headlight........I couldn't see any rough sparks any where .

 

[embee 7,288]

It might be worth checking the fuel pump relay. I'm guessing the later bikes will be the same, my 700 has two relays side by side, one for the fuel pump and the other for the radiator fan. You can swap them over to see if there's any difference. I had a fan relay go faulty, so if it's the same item on later bikes it's possible it could be going down. You can live without a fan relay temporarily at a push as long as you don't get stuck in traffic.