Stalling NC750 DCT

[noj 365]

I'll have a look tomorrow. 

That's when I find the fuel pump. 

Thanks. 

 

[embee 7,288]

1 hour ago, noj said:

I'll have a look tomorrow. 

That's when I find the fuel pump. 

Thanks. 

 

The pump is inside the tank, fortunately you don't need to get to that.

 

I'm not sure where the fuel pump relay is on yours, on my Integra it's at the front right hand side inside the fairing. The ones mine uses are a small format, similar size to a "regular" automotive relay but about half the thickness, like a half scale matchbox (if that means anything). I imagine the parts fiche at https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/honda-motorcycle/750-MOTO/NC will show it on one of the electrical/wiring pages.

[DaveM59 1,605]

Worth checking inside the fuse box too at any fuses or relays in both the ignition and fuel circuits. My integra was filthy and dusty inside there and most of the tiny fuse blades were less than shiny. A slight intermittence when voltage drops at idle could be just enough to stall.

Whatever it is is minor but these are the hardest faults to trace, you have to just keep eliminating each possibility.

[noj 365]

Well lads, after letting the bike tick over and the occasional blip over the past week everything seems to be getting better. 

Fingers crossed it will be the same underload when ridden. 

 

 

[ScaredyCat 1,659]

Did you check the battery?

 

A couple of weeks ago I had an issue, in gear, clutch lever in. Went to pull away and the bike stalled. Thought I'd been a bit ham fisted and tried to restart the bike. Display just went blank. Got off, pushed the bike to the side of the road. Turned it off, then on again and it started fine. 

 

Thought there might be a battery issue, put it on charge over the weekend. Monday morning, wouldn't start. 

 

Last Sunday replaced the battery and the bike is happy again. Actually feels a lot more responsive to me. 

 

[noj 365]

I did replace the battery yes and it seems to be runn fine at the moment. 

Not had chance to ride it yet but maybe tomorrow I'll drag it out and gi everyone an update. 

[Graham NZ 1,186]

If a battery has ever been drained to absolutely flat it will rarely be very good again no matter how much it's charged.  Take it to an auto electrician and have a load test done on it.

[noj 365]

Well hello again lads and lassies, long time no post simply because the bike been has been running fine since the new battery was fitted.

But the problem has popped up again, exactly the same symptoms and again it was my fault leaving the dash cam plugged in for a week, Ive managed to trickle charge it but even that is not rectifying the problem so it looks like a new battery is needed  again.

Did an oil and filter change today, (both filters, DCT you see) and reset the DCT gear settings using the method posted on here, took it out for a bimble hoping that the small service and reset might sort things out but alas no.

I am considering this,    https://www.tayna.co.uk/motorcycle-batteries/exide/eltz12s/

a bit more expensive but a lot lighter , no doubt there will be some amongst you that will say no, or be sat on the fence so any input will be welcome.

So thats all for now, and I promise to give an update this time. 

Edited April 10, 2022 by noj

[fred_jb 10,265]

Just be aware that although lithium batteries are lighter and have superior cranking current, they do generally have lower capacity, so 3 or 4 Ah, compared to typically 8 Ah for lead acid batteries.  This means if you have any sort of current drain issue while parked up, then a lithium battery will go flat much quicker than a lead acid battery.

[noj 365]

Thanks Fred for the info.

 

[MatBin 5,092]

1 hour ago, noj said:

Well hello again lads and lassies, long time no post simply because the bike been has been running fine since the new battery was fitted.

But the problem has popped up again, exactly the same symptoms and again it was my fault leaving the dash cam plugged in for a week, Ive managed to trickle charge it but even that is not rectifying the problem so it looks like a new battery is needed  again.

Did an oil and filter change today, (both filters, DCT you see) and reset the DCT gear settings using the method posted on here, took it out for a bimble hoping that the small service and reset might sort things out but alas no.

I am considering this,    https://www.tayna.co.uk/motorcycle-batteries/exide/eltz12s/

a bit more expensive but a lot lighter , no doubt there will be some amongst you that will say no, or be sat on the fence so any input will be welcome.

So thats all for now, and I promise to give an update this time. 

Sounds like you need a Thunderbox to stop killing batteries.

[DCTPaul 629]

Had recent batt probs...

Went OE Yuasa from Halfords... admitedly with a trade card, but simple collection, and return if it plays up under waranty...

some things i like to get from a shop rather than intergoogleweb n mail order etc.

[Viator 1,526]

8 hours ago, DCTPaul said:

Had recent batt probs...

Went OE Yuasa from Halfords... admitedly with a trade card, but simple collection, and return if it plays up under waranty...

some things i like to get from a shop rather than intergoogleweb n mail order etc.

I agree with you all the way on that, it's nice to be able to check size and fit of stuff before you buy and a decent discount with the trade card 👍 

[noj 365]

New battery arrived yesterday morning,  I thought there was nothing in the box, boy are they light these li ion batteries. 

Checked the voltage, 13.7 V out of the box. 

Swapped old for new and put key in,  first crack, no hesitation and the motor was running. 

Since then, I've ordered the thunderbox and also the thunderbox usb lead. 

Not had chance to ride the bike yet to see if its still stuttering and running on one cylinder so fingers crossed. 

Ps.

I did notice that the revs on slow tickover after it had been running for 5mins kind of dropped slightly then recovered, only by a few revs but still concerning. 

[Trev 18,694]

4 minutes ago, noj said:

 

I did notice that the revs on slow tickover after it had been running for 5mins kind of dropped slightly then recovered, only by a few revs but still concerning. 

Probably fan kicking in 

[noj 365]

Had a chance to take it out today, It ran ok until about 5 miles in, had to turn around and come home.

 

 

[noj 365]

On 19/01/2020 at 20:35, embee said:

It might be worth checking the fuel pump relay. I'm guessing the later bikes will be the same, my 700 has two relays side by side, one for the fuel pump and the other for the radiator fan. You can swap them over to see if there's any difference. I had a fan relay go faulty, so if it's the same item on later bikes it's possible it could be going down. You can live without a fan relay temporarily at a push as long as you don't get stuck in traffic.

I swapped over the relays and low and behold, it worked.........well it did work , I took the bike back out again and it ran sweet, no drop out what so ever.

When I got back I connected up the Thunderbox gadget and all was going well until I realised that the box was not coming to life but when I revved the engine up a bit, it flashed and then the green led lit up and stayed on, then when the revs dropped back to tickover the led went off.

The bike also started to struggle ticking over as well.

I measured the voltage on tickover and it read 14.3v, the Thunderbox kicked in at around 14.8v.

Ive not checked any earth points as yet, but I have checked the kickstart switch  and all seems ok. 

 

[davebike 943]

If you are seeing 14.8v I would suspect your regulater is falty or of course you meter is not good !

The max you should get is14.5  most regulate at 14.3!

 

[noj 365]

I got that wrong,  it's actually 14.48 max when the engine was running. 

I shot a short video yesterday, I will upload it to YouTube and post a link later. 

You can also hear the engine pitch altering. 

[noj 365]

https://youtube.com/shorts/VdWbo4p2kh4?feature=share

better with the sound turned up.

 

The problem I mentioned earlier about the thunderbox not working was down to a loose wire/feed.

[noj 365]

Well, all seems to be good now, Not a clue what caused it to misbehave though.

I simply unplugged which ever connector I could get too, not knowing what they were for, doused them with contact cleaner including the HT cap on each HT cable , crossed my fingers , took it out and like new again, done around 300 miles over the last couple of weeks.

The new LI-ION LITHIUM battery seems to be working well and cracks the bike up first stab at the starter button, The Thunderbox works as it should , shutting everything down when engine is switched off, (draw back here is the back box lock has to be opened with the key because the fob wont work with no power to the box lock. 

[jeremyr62 2,560]

2 hours ago, noj said:

draw back here is the back box lock has to be opened with the key because the fob wont work with no power to the box lock. 

Blimey, the hardship 

[noj 365]

Aye,  LOL 

[noj 365]

Here we go again guys. couple of weeks ago I took the bike out with the wife on the back and rode it on the motorway for at least 20 miles, never missed a beat, very enjoyable.

yesterday, we decided to have a ride out and low and behold, back to single cylinder.

Im beginning to wonder if it might be an earthing problem or an HT lead problem.

after googling earth points on the DCT I cant seem to find any, any pointers? and how would I get the HT leads off to check them?

thanks in advance.

[noj 365]

 

 

So there you go, Ive just come back from MOTeeing the wifes Rebel 500 and suggests changing the plugs for standard plugs and bin the iridium plugs, cheaper way  to see if its a plug thats FUBAR. Need to find a standard plug now, im finding it difficult at the moment. Oh, im not touching the throttle in that video.

Edited August 2, 2022 by noj