Chain lubrication

[steelhorseuk 1,690]

I am seriously considering the Esystem.Its a doddle to fit and I have seen them for £170. Problem solved!  

 

http://www.scottoiler.com/uk/esystem/esystem.html

[Guest zoeff50]

Purchased the (maunual) Loobman chain oiler last year and finally installed it last week. It was too cold during the winter period to work on the bike. Used teflon loaded spray grease (white grease)  to full satisfaction up to now, but the Loobman oiler would be a bit more convenient.

Installation took 1-2 hrs, not a big job but you have to carefully install the equipment, especially the oil delivery head close to the rear sprocket. I had to remove also the Skidmarx rear hugger to guide the oil delivery tube along the rear fork. Everything fastened with the supplied tie wraps. Important that you carefully follow the instructions, no upturns in the oil delivery tube, oil delivery head pointing downwards 45 degrees, no contact of the oil delivery head with the teeth of the sprocket. Delivery head is a bit of a flimsy design, the two halves easily seperate again. Had contact with (Dennis) Loobman and the design/ manufacturing has improved in the mean time.

Using Stihl SynthPlus chainsaw lub oil based on recommendation from the German NC700 forum. One liter bottle of oil costs EUR 7 and has a storage life time of 7 years.

Filled the oil reservoir, pressed the button twice and let the bike run on the centre stand. Oil slowly dripped out on the rear sprocket and next on the inside of the chain. Worked perfectly. Drove 600km since and half way at the fuel stop lubricated again; 1-2 x pressing the button. Important that you drive after lubricating to distribute the oil on the chain.

No oil on the rear tyre, do not apply too much oil.

My conclusion: Simple piece of kit, cheap and works very good up to now.

 

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/88619960/ChainOiler.jpg

[Guest NCXrookie]

The worst part of owning a bike is chain maintenance.  Why not belt drive?  Because the manufacturers know we have to keep going back to them for replacements etc. 

[ste7ios 469]

It's not so simple as usual... WikiPedia: Chains versus belts

[steelhorseuk 1,690]

My chain is becoming a bit of a pain TBH.  Looks like it needs adjusting yet again. It was only replaced 500 miles ago and already its out of tolerance!

I am begining to think my riding style is too hard for it.  Im not doing killer standing starts or pulling wheelies though. Crazy!

[Rev Ken 6,331]

My chain is becoming a bit of a pain TBH.  Looks like it needs adjusting yet again. It was only replaced 500 miles ago and already its out of tolerance!

I am begining to think my riding style is too hard for it.  Im not doing killer standing starts or pulling wheelies though. Crazy!

With the NC's modest power, unless you are trying to do wheelies, or don't realise it needs an occasional contact with some lubricant I'm astonished you are getting chain stretch  Just two thoughts; perhaps it was fitted with the correct 'sag', but loosened up quickly as it settled in, or the back wheel isn't tightened up sufficiently allowing it to move.

[Guest jdearauj]

My chain is becoming a bit of a pain TBH.  Looks like it needs adjusting yet again. It was only replaced 500 miles ago and already its out of tolerance!

I am begining to think my riding style is too hard for it.  Im not doing killer standing starts or pulling wheelies though. Crazy!

 

I'm having the same issue. I think my chain needs adjusting again as it has moved past the service manual guidelines. I'm booking it in for Honda to have a look as I have adjusted it twice already. Maybe it is the way I'm adjusting it which could be wrong.

[Guest CBR45]

I adjusted my chain twice in the first 600 miles .

However, it's now done 3k and it hasn't been touched since. I keep it clean and we'll lu bricated.

Do new chains stretch a bit? Thinking they must.

[steelhorseuk 1,690]

Rev, I lubricate it well after every ride out.  The last adjustment was done at Honda (Graftons, MK) when they replaced the whole set. (under 500 miles ago) because of a tight spot.  This was not part of a the chain recall.

 

To me the chain seems very small compared to other bikes and just doesnt seem to cope with the stress put on it. I have a chain on my Mountain bike looks nearly as big!!!

 

Perhaps as Paul says once the initial stretching is over it may settle down!

 

I guess I will take it in again for them to check it to be on the safe side same as JdA.

 

Mark

 

.   

[Guest jdearauj]

I have a tour coming up in May to Le Mans in France for the MotoGP. So rather be safe now, than sorry while on my tour.

[roddy 845]

Can you get bigger/better chains for the bike?

[steelhorseuk 1,690]

Can you get bigger/better chains for the bike?

 

I will ask Honda next week, Im going in to have mine checked again!

[bluemak 215]

My chain is becoming a bit of a pain TBH.  Looks like it needs adjusting yet again. It was only replaced 500 miles ago and already its out of tolerance!

I am begining to think my riding style is too hard for it.  Im not doing killer standing starts or pulling wheelies though. Crazy!

There was a recall for some chains that had missed being heat treated - this was a free replacement - please check with your dealer - I beleive it could lead to a serious failure.

[steelhorseuk 1,690]

Hi Martin, thanks for that but my chain wasnt replaced due to the recall as I had a DID (Japan). It was replaced simply because there was a tight spot.

I will check with them however if there are any further known problems when they check my recently replaced chain.

Mark

[Guest fresh air]

Isn't 'tight spot' misnamed ?   Isn't the rest of the chain 'stretched' ?  People may claim they do not thrash the bike, but all it takes is just one quick start from the traffic lights and that's it - a ruined chain.

A stretched chain will only get worse and worse and even on heavy down gearing the stretching will get worse - there is no cure except a new chain.

 

In my opinion WD40 should come NOWHERE NEAR a chain.  PERIOD.  It may be called a 'lubricant' by quite a lot of people, but is really a penetrating oil (I often use it for removing stubborn black grease stains from the carpet which Fairy Liquid won't budge)  It is OK to use as a chain degreaser, but I would preferably WASH all traces of it away before adding a final, real lubricant, and a real lubricant for me would be the type which turns from a liquid spray to a non/low-fling wax within a few seconds of application.  Better still, the molten wax bath technique.

 

Interesting the chainsaw oil use !   I have 2 Stihl chainsaws and have been buying chain oil in bulk for years but have never even considered using this for motorcycle chains.  The latest oils bio-degrade on contact with the soil so perhaps the more traditional (chainsaw) chain oils would be better for M/C chains, so I will give this a try.

 

As an aside, I never ordered a main stand with my bike, instead, my dealer promised me a free 'Paddock Stand' thrown in the price, but as I cannot bring it home on my bike he said he will post it to me.

When I saw him today when I took the bike in for the first service, he seems to have forgotten all about it.    It looks like the workshop tightened the chain and waxed it during the service, but this darn stand better come soon or my chain is going to wear out pronto as I believe chain slack encourages stretching (the sudden 'take up' of slack)

[Guest billc700s]

Hi, I read Stihl chainsaw oil works well in chain oilers as it has good anti fling as well as the other high speed/stress properties and at nearly half the price of Scotoil's own a good option for those on tight budgets. Also the cleaning of the chain periodically is very important as it stops the chain and sprockets getting gummed up with old oil and debris, at the same time you can inspect the chain for any damage to the O rings.

[Guest fresh air]

It is important that anybody planning to use 'chainsaw oil' to use on their M/C chain should remember Stihl produce their own 2 stroke chainsaw oil for adding to the petrol mix, so don't go buying this instead of their BAR CHAIN OIL as it correctly should be called.

Another thing to remember is both chainsaws and motorcycles rev at roughly the same speed and one of the ways we check that oil lubricant is being pumped onto the bar (and chain) is to place the 'nose' of the bar a few inches away from a freshly cut surface and open up the revs at max for 1 - 2 seconds to ensure oil is being flung off - if it is then you will know your oilways are not blocked with saw dust and you ain't gonna bugger up your bar and chain.  So expect to have at least some oil flung off if using on a M/C.

IMO, Stihl make the best chainsaws in the world and are expensive and so are their other products, so I would recommend you buy Oregon bar chain oil or even Husqvarna's own make.

[Guest chickenflaps]

Pictures of the Tutoro chain oiler fitted.

Second picture show the routing of the pipe, held in place with self adhesive cable clips, and the single nozzle feeing onto the rear sprocket.

Seem to be working ok

Hi Dave,

you still happy with this oiler?  I'm thinking of getting one, any comments or wishes from you that you'd bought a different one?  and which one did you get?

cheers, Neil

[Guest billc700s]

That's how I mounted my Tutoro, the trick is the stainless bolt for the lower mounting but if you plan on using the Honda panniers you will need to move the resevoir to the frame as the two mounting holes are for the lower mount of the Honda pannier frame. I now have a Honda 45ltr. topbox so should not need panniers for most trips. Getting the flow rate right is a bit hit and miss as the temperature is up and down like a yoyo.

[Dave D 567]

Hi Dave,

Seem to be working ok

you still happy with this oiler?  I'm thinking of getting one, any comments or wishes from you that you'd bought a different one?  and which one did you get?

cheers, Neil

 

Hi Neil,

 

yes still happy with it, the only difference is that I bought a Scottoiler bracket that fits on the axle which holds the feed nozzle next to the rear cogg better.

 

On the hottest day of the year when it was 20+ degrees it dumped all the oil as it was thinner when hotter, doh!!

 

I've turned it down a bit and keep an eye on it.

 

I've also fitted panniers using the same mounting point and the oil container sits in the same location without any interference.

[Guest chickenflaps]

Hi Dave,

Seem to be working ok

you still happy with this oiler?  I'm thinking of getting one, any comments or wishes from you that you'd bought a different one?  and which one did you get?

cheers, Neil

 

Hi Neil,

 

yes still happy with it, the only difference is that I bought a Scottoiler bracket that fits on the axle which holds the feed nozzle next to the rear cogg better.

 

On the hottest day of the year when it was 20+ degrees it dumped all the oil as it was thinner when hotter, doh!!

 

I've turned it down a bit and keep an eye on it.

 

I've also fitted panniers using the same mounting point and the oil container sits in the same location without any interference.

thanks Dave.  That's good enough for me, the order has been placed!  I'll add something to the forum after a while.  cheers, Neil

[Scootabout 2,252]

Well, my goodness me!  The NC is my first chain bike, and in a way this thread has confirmed my worst fears.  So much faffing to do.  Shaft drive: change the oil in the reservoir every 8k miles (or more).  Chain in oil bath (TMax), ditto. Belt on Burgman: change it every 12k miles.  Oh well, I knew there'd be work to do.  I didn't expect so many different opinions on the best way of doing it, though!   Still, this is a forum 

[Trev96 95]

In the most recent 'Ride' mag there was mention of this German company with a new (to me) method of chain lubrication, graphite block:

http://preview.tinyurl.com/ohpqogs

I don't think it will be a cheap way of doing it though

[Guest Crusty]

Long after starting this thread, I'm still finding a quick squirt of quality lube is doing wonders. Chain is looking great after 8000 miles.

To me, an auto lube device seems a bit of an unnecessary faff.

[Guest chickenflaps]

Long after starting this thread, I'm still finding a quick squirt of quality lube is doing wonders. Chain is looking great after 8000 miles.

To me, an auto lube device seems a bit of an unnecessary faff.

Oi, Crusty, is that an oxymoron? (not sure there).  How can an auto lube device be a faff?!  That said, I stupidly put gear oil in my posh new Tutoro oiler so it drips out as quickly as butter would...next job, fill it with 10-40!