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Mike5100

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Mike5100

I called in Honda Newcastle today and checked all their 3 second hand NC700X's and all the rear calipers looked OK.  So it must be only some bikes with the problem.

Mike

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  • Mike5100

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Not a bad person, but perhaps you should do some research into braking as using your front brake in slow manouevring can end up with you reluctantly joining the 'SAD' club (Stopped And Dropped). In no

glencoeman

An update on the rear brake caliper. I have had a new rear brake caliper kit fitted today which includes new mounting bracket and brake pads. The reason for the delay was that the kit had to come from Japan as Honda were out of stock in Europe. Please check that your rear brake caliper looks level and not leaning over to the right (viewed from the rear of the bike).

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Guest Southerner

Just shy of 900 miles now and the rear brake is definitely better than it was when out of the showroom.

 

Its performance is good, I'm quite happy with it now after a rather 'iffy' start. 

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Mike5100

yes I'm pleased with mine too.  And I manage to get the synchronisation of the application of the deceleration machinations right most of the time.

Mike

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michael

argh. Now i'll be spending time on my face in the garage, "appearing," to be doing push ups while I'm actually checking the alignment of the rear brakes.

 

What if I get caught doing this by my wife? What will I tell her when I admit I'm *not* exercising?

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ScaredyCat

I must be the only one but I've never actively used my rear brake on my 700x

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Guest scrumpymike

When I started biking, you HAD to use both brakes if you wanted to stop any time soon - not very efficient those drum brakes, at least not until the twin-leading-shoe design heralded a major technological breakthrough. I guess old habits die hard, and I still use my back brake - a lot.

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Rev Ken

I must be the only one but I've never actively used my rear brake on my 700x

WHY?

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ScaredyCat

 

I must be the only one but I've never actively used my rear brake on my 700x

WHY?

 

 

I've never needed to.

 

I don't trail brake in traffic for stability I just use the clutch and don't use it at all for stopping. I suspect it's because of the linked brakes - but the front has always done a very good job of stopping me when required. Even, like this morning, in the rain when some audi driver tried not to see me the front was perfectly good enough to stop me.

 

Does that make me a bad person? :cry:

Edited by ScaredyCat
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glencoeman

You should use both brakes as UK bikes are fitted with C-ABS which means as you use the rear brake, the middle piston (there are three) on the front caliper is activated as well as the rear caliper..

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Rev Ken

Not a bad person, but perhaps you should do some research into braking as using your front brake in slow manouevring can end up with you reluctantly joining the 'SAD' club (Stopped And Dropped). In normal braking recommended procedure is 75% front, 25% rear. In the wet 50% for both brakes, on ice, well cross your fingers!

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ScaredyCat

Well, that's why I only use 2 fingers for the front ... it's very difficult to grab with just 2 and even if you do the pressure is progressive - unless you're He-Man. 

 

I may well take a look at my braking, I'm looking at doing i2i mc1 which deals with braking and some general slow control as well as other things like not avoiding hazards when appropriate etc..

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Mike5100

Well, that's why I only use 2 fingers for the front ... it's very difficult to grab with just 2 and even if you do the pressure is progressive - unless you're He-Man. 

 

I may well take a look at my braking, I'm looking at doing i2i mc1 which deals with braking and some general slow control as well as other things like not avoiding hazards when appropriate etc..

I find myself using two fingers for braking out of laziness rather than design, but on the NC 750 I can see it's going to cause me a problem.  This is because the lever seems to come quite a bit further back towards the bars than it did on the 700X (and I have tried all the adjustments)  So it's fine under normal braking but when I  brake hard the other two fingers are in the way.  It's just dawned on me why people fit shorty levers  :cry:

I could do with revisiting i2imca for better guidance on using the NC750 brakes - last time I went they suggested me forgetting the back brake completely (It was a Rocket without ABS)

Mike

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glencoeman

Doesn't the 750 have standard ABS unlike the 700 which has combined front/rear ABS. Pressing the rear brake would not activate a piston in the front caliper as it only has 2 pistons on the 750.

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Guest szucsi

If you have to brake while the bike is leand in a bend (because for example the bend gets narrower) and use the front brake, the bike will straighten up itself, and you will go into the other lane (imagine an oncoming lorry). If you use the rear brake, the bike will lean more, as well as slowing, and you can take that corner no problems at all!

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I don't trail brake in traffic for stability ....

 

 

Hm... There should be some confusion. Trial braking means using the breaks while the bike is leaned. You can't do that while filtering the traffic at low speed, can you?

 

@Mike, if I grab the break so hard that it will touch my two last fingers I'll be on asphalt as the front will lock much earlier.  

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ScaredyCat

 

I don't trail brake in traffic for stability ....

 

 

Hm... There should be some confusion. Trial braking means using the breaks while the bike is leaned. You can't do that while filtering the traffic at low speed, can you?

 

 

Perhaps, I'm talking about using the rear to stabilise the bike at low speed while you've got the clutch in the 'friction zone'. 

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You should. Just try it and you'll be amazed how stable the bike stops at low speed.

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Mike5100

 

I don't trail brake in traffic for stability ....

 

 

Hm... There should be some confusion. Trial braking means using the breaks while the bike is leaned. You can't do that while filtering the traffic at low speed, can you?

 

@Mike, if I grab the break so hard that it will touch my two last fingers I'll be on asphalt as the front will lock much earlier.  

 

Yeah that would have been the case on my 700X but not the 750

Mike

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Mike5100

If you have to brake while the bike is leand in a bend (because for example the bend gets narrower) and use the front brake, the bike will straighten up itself, and you will go into the other lane (imagine an oncoming lorry). If you use the rear brake, the bike will lean more, as well as slowing, and you can take that corner no problems at all!

The course easytiger and I went on taught us that the reason a bike stands up if you brake in the corner is because of rider input rather than any inherent tendencies.  Certainly once they had us unweighting the bars (by gripping the bike with our knees, we were able to brake quite hard into corners.

Mike

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Guest EasyTiger

If you have to brake while the bike is leand in a bend (because for example the bend gets narrower) and use the front brake, the bike will straighten up itself, and you will go into the other lane (imagine an oncoming lorry). If you use the rear brake, the bike will lean more, as well as slowing, and you can take that corner no problems at all!

For anyone who would like to learn how to lose speed safely in a tightening bend without the bike standing up, tucking the front wheel under, or running wide, I recommend a Machine Control Day with i2imca.com. Their methods don't involve touching the rear brake except in slow control manoeuvres.

There you can also practise emergency braking - by not grabbing a handful (when you could lock the front on a non-ABS bike), but braking in stages - a first pressure to depress the forks to maximise the tyre's contact patch, followed by increasing pressure as slowly as you can - some challenge in an emergency.

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ScaredyCat

Ok, so I've signed up for the i2i MC1- unfortunately the Norfolk ones they seem to be few and far between. Mine wont be until September, although I've said I'd do the May one if they get a cancellation.

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Guest ncol700xxx

I just had a look at my nc700x n the caliper is straight but until I bled them n got the air out of the linked pipe front to back they were pants . Replacing the disc bolts with titanium ones and changing the sprocket nuts for aluminium (lighter in weight) it stops so much better now . I'm trying to get front disc bolts in titanium but to no prevail ... If any body can help ?

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Mike5100

I am no expert in these matters but would imagine titanium bolts have radically different properties to steel ones. I know they are lighter but what about other characteristics. I know that microlighters often want ti change critical bolts for stainless steel ones becuase of corrosion priblems but then were reminded by the manufacturer that they use mild steel because they bend under stress rather than snap like ss bolts

Mike

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